lightest sound deadening
11-10-2009, 11:11 AM
#1
lightest sound deadening
Looking for opinions on what might be best for my needs.
I am considering applying suede to my headliner and figure while I have it off maybe I can reduce if not eliminate road noise. Plus there is a little trunk rattle from the subs.
I am concerned about adding too much weight. So I'm looking for the:
Lightest yet still effective and as cheap as possible, hopefully easy to install product. Maybe I am asking for the impossible, but if I can sacrifice cost to be lighter that would work.
Would thin sheets of dynomat or whatever everyone uses now going to be noticeable? I want to do the roof, floors including back seat bench, trunk, and maybe even doors if worth it.
I mean my 6th gen is fairly quiet. But I think it could be even better. How much weight would I be looking at adding if doing the entire car and how much, compared to doing just known problem areas?
Thanks guys. My 10" Arc is still perfect with my 2 factory 8" subs.
I am considering applying suede to my headliner and figure while I have it off maybe I can reduce if not eliminate road noise. Plus there is a little trunk rattle from the subs.
I am concerned about adding too much weight. So I'm looking for the:
Lightest yet still effective and as cheap as possible, hopefully easy to install product. Maybe I am asking for the impossible, but if I can sacrifice cost to be lighter that would work.
Would thin sheets of dynomat or whatever everyone uses now going to be noticeable? I want to do the roof, floors including back seat bench, trunk, and maybe even doors if worth it.
I mean my 6th gen is fairly quiet. But I think it could be even better. How much weight would I be looking at adding if doing the entire car and how much, compared to doing just known problem areas?
Thanks guys. My 10" Arc is still perfect with my 2 factory 8" subs.
11-10-2009, 03:31 PM
#4
Second Skin Damplifier Lite..designed for people like you in mind. 
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...ifier-lite.php
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...ifier-lite.php
11-11-2009, 01:42 AM
#6
Second Skin Damplifier Lite..designed for people like you in mind.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...ifier-lite.php
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...ifier-lite.php
that sounds promising. Now assuming I would use this on most areas to save weight and cost, which areas would be most crucial and worth using the normal Damplifier?
Very interested in how the 3 products in this thread so far compare.
Are the materials in one better? The 2 super cheap gutter and roof materials vs. the name brand Damplifier.
weight and effective noise suppression...
03-01-2010, 04:54 PM
#8
Second Skin Damplifier Lite..designed for people like you in mind.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...ifier-lite.php
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/produ...ifier-lite.php
03-01-2010, 05:12 PM
#9
I put VB2 on my doors and have been very happy with it.
03-02-2010, 02:56 PM
#11
03-02-2010, 05:05 PM
#12
If road noise is what you are after no mat is going to help.
They only work on absorbing the panel vibrations.
For noise reduction you need to look at barriers like MLV in conjunction with a CCF decoupler.
I would suggest reading up on second skins website or sounddeadenershowdown.com
Yes you will add some weight but you will eliminate the noise you're after.
They only work on absorbing the panel vibrations.
For noise reduction you need to look at barriers like MLV in conjunction with a CCF decoupler.
I would suggest reading up on second skins website or sounddeadenershowdown.com
Yes you will add some weight but you will eliminate the noise you're after.
03-02-2010, 08:34 PM
#13
yeah road noise is my primary concern. but trunk vibration from my arc sub as well.
If road noise is what you are after no mat is going to help.
They only work on absorbing the panel vibrations.
For noise reduction you need to look at barriers like MLV in conjunction with a CCF decoupler.
I would suggest reading up on second skins website or sounddeadenershowdown.com
Yes you will add some weight but you will eliminate the noise you're after.
They only work on absorbing the panel vibrations.
For noise reduction you need to look at barriers like MLV in conjunction with a CCF decoupler.
I would suggest reading up on second skins website or sounddeadenershowdown.com
Yes you will add some weight but you will eliminate the noise you're after.
03-03-2010, 02:06 PM
#15
03-10-2010, 04:56 PM
#16
I used a paint on product called QueitCoat. It's very cost effective and you can sort of control the weight by how much you apply. Worked great for me, and it gets in every little crack and crevise. Leaves for car smelling of tar for a few days and it can get messy, those are the 2 drawbacks.
03-10-2010, 09:28 PM
#17
I tend to get a bit irritable
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Join Date: Feb 2002
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I used a paint on product called QueitCoat. It's very cost effective and you can sort of control the weight by how much you apply. Worked great for me, and it gets in every little crack and crevise. Leaves for car smelling of tar for a few days and it can get messy, those are the 2 drawbacks.
03-11-2010, 07:45 AM
#18
Luxury Liner Pro from check this stuff out
Luxury Liner Pro is designed to go on top of our vibration dampers to filter out, and block the transfer of the most difficult airborne sound waves. When used on top of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro, Luxury Liner Pro can help make any car quiet as a brand new luxury vehicle.
The mass laoded vinyl barrier is very flexible and exceeds the industry standard for noise reduction uses.
The closed cell foam decoupler is waterproof and extremely limp, allowing for easier installation and better noise reduction.
The two components are not glued together, rather they are melted together for a perfect and permanent bond, stronger than any vinyl adhesive can provide.
Luxury Liner Pro is designed to go on top of our vibration dampers to filter out, and block the transfer of the most difficult airborne sound waves. When used on top of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro, Luxury Liner Pro can help make any car quiet as a brand new luxury vehicle.
The mass laoded vinyl barrier is very flexible and exceeds the industry standard for noise reduction uses.
The closed cell foam decoupler is waterproof and extremely limp, allowing for easier installation and better noise reduction.
The two components are not glued together, rather they are melted together for a perfect and permanent bond, stronger than any vinyl adhesive can provide.
06-13-2010, 10:35 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 469
I've been hitting my Max up with the Peel'n'Seal from Lowe's.
I will get jumped all over for that but it's the most cost-effective option for simple deadening. I don't mean to dissuade any audio enthusiast from spending the money on the "right" product, but I will say this: the Second Skin guys are very active on car forums and they spread a lot of FUD (fear uncertainty and doubt) about everything but the most expensive deadening products. They have a product to sell and while they are probably "right," what they say must be taken with a grain of salt. There are also plenty of people who have done a sloppy job of applying Peel'n'Seal and they end up with a mess. Do it right, say many, and you can rest easy.
I've been "doing it right" by waiting for warm, dry days, thoroughly cleaning my door panels with a few solutions, drying them with alcohol, applying the P'n'S with a heat gun and a roller, and sealing the edges and seams with aluminum HVAC tape and a squeegee. This prevents any smell from escaping the edges of the P'n'S as the backing is a layer of aluminum that, like the tape, cannot be gassed through. I've done my front doors; took me about an hour per.
I've been driving about two weeks through weather hot and cold, humid and dry, without smelling anything. (I know that says nothing about the longevity of the setup.) It's not night and day but it has made a noticeable impact on road noise so I will be finishing up the rears and probably the wheel wells and back seat/rear deck as well, as most of my road noise now comes from behind. I don't want to put it in any upside-down applications, though, so the rear deck may get some other treatment.
I also hit my front doors up with Frost King (google it, Corvette guys love it), which is supposedly more effective for reducing road noise than deadening materials. I didn't notice that much difference, but that may be because I applied it on the actual door panels themselves. I will be removing that and reapplying the Frost King on the stamped panel in the door because as I have it now the panels are squeaking against the dash and it's driving me nuts.
Some photos of what I'm talking about.
HVAC tape sealing the edges of the PnS. I avoided bubbles in applying the PnS with a heat gun and wallpaper roller and worked the bubbles out of the HVAC tape with a squeegee. I applied both carefully, though, so there were few blemishes to begin with.
One door outer skin PnS'd. I tried to hit the biggest areas I could in the centers of the panels to quell vibrations.
Frost King in my door panels. This doesn't seem to have made much difference but I think that may be because of how I applied it. I will be doing it again as the Luxury Liner is applied above once I get my lock actuator issues worked out on my passenger door.
I will get jumped all over for that but it's the most cost-effective option for simple deadening. I don't mean to dissuade any audio enthusiast from spending the money on the "right" product, but I will say this: the Second Skin guys are very active on car forums and they spread a lot of FUD (fear uncertainty and doubt) about everything but the most expensive deadening products. They have a product to sell and while they are probably "right," what they say must be taken with a grain of salt. There are also plenty of people who have done a sloppy job of applying Peel'n'Seal and they end up with a mess. Do it right, say many, and you can rest easy.
I've been "doing it right" by waiting for warm, dry days, thoroughly cleaning my door panels with a few solutions, drying them with alcohol, applying the P'n'S with a heat gun and a roller, and sealing the edges and seams with aluminum HVAC tape and a squeegee. This prevents any smell from escaping the edges of the P'n'S as the backing is a layer of aluminum that, like the tape, cannot be gassed through. I've done my front doors; took me about an hour per.
I've been driving about two weeks through weather hot and cold, humid and dry, without smelling anything. (I know that says nothing about the longevity of the setup.) It's not night and day but it has made a noticeable impact on road noise so I will be finishing up the rears and probably the wheel wells and back seat/rear deck as well, as most of my road noise now comes from behind. I don't want to put it in any upside-down applications, though, so the rear deck may get some other treatment.
I also hit my front doors up with Frost King (google it, Corvette guys love it), which is supposedly more effective for reducing road noise than deadening materials. I didn't notice that much difference, but that may be because I applied it on the actual door panels themselves. I will be removing that and reapplying the Frost King on the stamped panel in the door because as I have it now the panels are squeaking against the dash and it's driving me nuts.
Some photos of what I'm talking about.
HVAC tape sealing the edges of the PnS. I avoided bubbles in applying the PnS with a heat gun and wallpaper roller and worked the bubbles out of the HVAC tape with a squeegee. I applied both carefully, though, so there were few blemishes to begin with.
One door outer skin PnS'd. I tried to hit the biggest areas I could in the centers of the panels to quell vibrations.
Frost King in my door panels. This doesn't seem to have made much difference but I think that may be because of how I applied it. I will be doing it again as the Luxury Liner is applied above once I get my lock actuator issues worked out on my passenger door.
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