New High Amp Alternator Just Arrived! Pics Inside!
#42
Hey bro, ease back and stop post whoring up the thread. You dont have to even post up stuff like this.. lol Why dont you just start a new thread entitled Iraggi: They just wont answer the phone..... or something like that. Not trying to start anything, but you simply come off as an internet gansta, which is NOT cool. The words/language you are using makes you seem just like an e-thug. I know if I were them, or any other business, I wouldnt respond to you either. Just too hard trying to unscramble the junk you write, and try to determine what you really are trying to say. lol sorry....but please, take it somewhere else IF you cant tone it down.
Last edited by 4DRZ; 04-08-2010 at 03:06 PM.
#43
Hey bro, ease back and stop post whoring up the thread. You dont have to even post up stuff like this.. lol Why dont you just start a new thread entitled Iraggi: They just wont answer the phone..... or something like that. Not trying to start anything, but you simply come off as an internet gansta, which is NOT cool. The words/language you are using makes you seem just like an e-thug. I know if I were them, or any other business, I wouldnt respond to you either. Just too hard trying to unscramble the junk you write, and try to determine what you really are trying to say. lol sorry....but please, take it somewhere else IF you cant tone it down.
ok first thing dunno who u are dont care u must feel important to post a comment to wat i said (instead of just pm'ing me)..- its not directed at u or at anyone i was just expressing my frustration (last time i checked this is a free country).. so please dont respond to anything i type if u have nothing contructive to say..
thank...
.thanks.
#44
Problem is I have PLENTY to say, and you dont have to know me to hear me....***! please get a clue and learn how to spell. Its bad enough that people like you perhaps talk in person worse than you spell, or attempt to spell. Stay in school. If you flunked out, go back or shoot yourself. I know it must be difficult and very challenging for "people" like you mr. internet "gansta" lol
ok first thing dunno who u are dont care u must feel important to post a comment to wat i said (instead of just pm'ing me)..- its not directed at u or at anyone i was just expressing my frustration (last time i checked this is a free country).. so please dont respond to anything i type if u have nothing contructive to say..
thank...
.thanks.
thank...
.thanks.
#45
Problem is I have PLENTY to say, and you dont have to know me to hear me....***! please get a clue and learn how to spell. Its bad enough that people like you perhaps talk in person worse than you spell, or attempt to spell. Stay in school. If you flunked out, go back or shoot yourself. I know it must be difficult and very challenging for "people" like you mr. internet "gansta" lol
lmao somebody is butt hurt???come on here and talk about my spelling who is the e-thug now lmao ..people like you ?? is that a racist comment?? im just gonna be the bigger man and leave this
alone because your a and you just proved it by replying bak to this message homo
OH YEAH AND WHEN YOU SEE MY NAME JUST CLICK TO ANOTHER PAGE THANKS GUY LMAO
#48
#49
Ok so, my alternator was beginning to whine, and whine pretty bad. I figured since Nissan wanted almost $700.00 for a new STOCK one installed, I would use this opportunity to "upgrade" to a high amp alternator from DC Power Engineering Inc. and just do the install myself. Total cost with shipping was $523.49. The alternator itself was the max amperage that they offered, a whopping 275amps....of which 140amps (hot) is at idle vs. 80-90 amps from the stock unit. Its an OEM direct fitment too. The build quality of this thing is just sick! Have to go get 0 gauge wire to run from the alt to the battery, but other than that, seems stright forward. To bad most wont see it after the install. Ok, here are the pics....
So next is the replacement of the Bose amp and speakers.
I just ordered the new Zed Leviathan 6 channel stereo class D amp No subs, just replacing all 8 speakers with all Focal speakers/components. X- Box Elite sits in the box awaiting install. Lmk what you guys think. Am I missing anything else? All wiring will be upgraded, either a Kinetix or Optima Yellow top will be the new battery. Sooooo with this said I still have my 8 channel A/D/S amp that will need a good home. If anyone is interested, lmk. Thanks
So next is the replacement of the Bose amp and speakers.
I just ordered the new Zed Leviathan 6 channel stereo class D amp No subs, just replacing all 8 speakers with all Focal speakers/components. X- Box Elite sits in the box awaiting install. Lmk what you guys think. Am I missing anything else? All wiring will be upgraded, either a Kinetix or Optima Yellow top will be the new battery. Sooooo with this said I still have my 8 channel A/D/S amp that will need a good home. If anyone is interested, lmk. Thanks
I heard they are pretty nice and stable alt but I am not digging the CNC'd milled Aluminum front case what if that heats up and causes the front plate to bend a little causing pre mature belt wear? Tell me how it goes. I need one myself and I actually kinda do for my system but Idk if I wanna spend $500 and they allll start like that including Mechman who is the competitor of DC power. As well as probably iraggi.
Last edited by S1cTech; 05-11-2010 at 08:24 PM.
#51
After a few days researching before buying mine.. I've found, based on many positive reviews from other Car Audio Forums, that iraggi is the way to go. It's an ebay store, but don't let that push you to thinking it's crap.
http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Altern...nd-Electronics
some testimonials
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...gi-alternator/
The only bad reviews I've read were from people that installed it wrong, or had it installed wrong. If you're putting a high amp alt in your car, wires need to be upgraded and better grounds need to be found.. If you get a mechanic or car audio shop to do it, make sure you know what they're doing and where they're posting grounds, or if they're even upgrading the wiring at all!! It's not their car, they just want your money!
My 200Amp alt was 350 after shipping. You really can't get any cheaper than that if you're looking for something that won't burn out in a year.
http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Altern...nd-Electronics
some testimonials
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/boa...gi-alternator/
The only bad reviews I've read were from people that installed it wrong, or had it installed wrong. If you're putting a high amp alt in your car, wires need to be upgraded and better grounds need to be found.. If you get a mechanic or car audio shop to do it, make sure you know what they're doing and where they're posting grounds, or if they're even upgrading the wiring at all!! It's not their car, they just want your money!
My 200Amp alt was 350 after shipping. You really can't get any cheaper than that if you're looking for something that won't burn out in a year.
Thankyou for the Link! wow I never would of know iraggi was this cheap. I always knew about the brand and just always thought they were gonna be $500! ugh. but why can't us late 4th genners get the 240a one? It is $40 more which is more money yes but it also does 40amps more and it says it only fits a 97? IIRC the 97 and 98 should be pretty similar in all car parts but the 95-96 could be different.
Has anyone confirmed this? I want to buy one this week but 240 does sound a whole lot nicer especially for my system.
Last edited by S1cTech; 05-11-2010 at 12:48 AM.
#52
Nope most MFG won't go beyond spec for OEM because of liabilities and the possible chance for them to engineer redesign. Have companies done it? Sure. I have seen GMs have 90amp alts stock and they offered 130-140a for a replacement. SO they must of had GM say ok, since GM owns AC delco.
#53
I've installed 2 alts in my 5th gen.. I would highly suggest getting a belt tension gauge to determine the proper belt tension.. I didn't in my first install and made it too tight. Over a short period of time, the belt ended up ruining my AC compressor which I have yet to fix. Also make sure that your pulley isn't smaller. I just received my 200amp alt from iraggi (another good spot to get one for a little cheaper), and to achieve 150amps at idle, he replaced the pulley with a smaller one made of aluminum. For the belt, he suggested going down in size by half an inch. (Stock belt is 43.5", so I am picking up a 43) in order to keep proper tension.
This one is super easy to use
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-91132-Be.../dp/B000CRDLZM
all you have to do is press this down at the middle position of the longest travel area of the belt. when the correct tension is applied, it clicks.. sort of the same way a torque wrench clicks when set. Then it displays the deflection or tension amount of the belt. I think the correct deflection is 1/4 inch if the distance from one pulley center to the other pulley center is 7 to 11 inches. Trust me on this one, if the belt is too tight, you will mess up your ac compressor and alt over a short period of time.. if it's too loose, you run the risk of the belt slipping off.. Something you don't want to look past.
Another note. The stock alternator was very very stuck when I tried yanking it out. Once I finally got it loose, I was using so much force that I pulled it directly into my radiator (since I took the radiator fan out for room.. it is a tight squeeze). I put an alt-sized hole straight through the rad.. fluid everywhere, so watch out for that too.
And yes, this is my very first post in a forum that I've been a part of and has helped me through a lot of crap with my car for 6 years now... I guess it's time I actually contribute.
Also, I'm running a Cerwin Vega Stroker 15" in the trunk on a Powerbass D class 1500 watt amp, CDT audios in the doors on an Arc Audio 150x4 class A. All 0 Gauge including the Big 3. Good Luck on the install! I'll be doing mine today or tomorrow.
I almost forgot. You need to run a 1/0 gauge ground as well from alt to chassis.. not sheet metal. If there is no place to do it, then post your cable at the mounting ear bolt that is closest to the back of the alt housing. You won't get everything out of the alt if you don't match your positive current with equal negative.
This one is super easy to use
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-91132-Be.../dp/B000CRDLZM
all you have to do is press this down at the middle position of the longest travel area of the belt. when the correct tension is applied, it clicks.. sort of the same way a torque wrench clicks when set. Then it displays the deflection or tension amount of the belt. I think the correct deflection is 1/4 inch if the distance from one pulley center to the other pulley center is 7 to 11 inches. Trust me on this one, if the belt is too tight, you will mess up your ac compressor and alt over a short period of time.. if it's too loose, you run the risk of the belt slipping off.. Something you don't want to look past.
Another note. The stock alternator was very very stuck when I tried yanking it out. Once I finally got it loose, I was using so much force that I pulled it directly into my radiator (since I took the radiator fan out for room.. it is a tight squeeze). I put an alt-sized hole straight through the rad.. fluid everywhere, so watch out for that too.
And yes, this is my very first post in a forum that I've been a part of and has helped me through a lot of crap with my car for 6 years now... I guess it's time I actually contribute.
Also, I'm running a Cerwin Vega Stroker 15" in the trunk on a Powerbass D class 1500 watt amp, CDT audios in the doors on an Arc Audio 150x4 class A. All 0 Gauge including the Big 3. Good Luck on the install! I'll be doing mine today or tomorrow.
I almost forgot. You need to run a 1/0 gauge ground as well from alt to chassis.. not sheet metal. If there is no place to do it, then post your cable at the mounting ear bolt that is closest to the back of the alt housing. You won't get everything out of the alt if you don't match your positive current with equal negative.
I am prob louder. :P opsss. lol but I would like to challenge you sometime. lol
#54
Sup guys, didnt wanna post a new thread since its the same topic but, I am in need of a higher than stock am alternator, I came across these on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...#ht_1191wt_889
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...#ht_1474wt_938
What do you guys think? they also offer 1 year warranty for both.\
I think $500+ for an alternator is insane, you can buy a low mile VQ30 for that much lol
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...#ht_1191wt_889
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...#ht_1474wt_938
What do you guys think? they also offer 1 year warranty for both.\
I think $500+ for an alternator is insane, you can buy a low mile VQ30 for that much lol
#55
No issues whatsoever. I wouldnt worry about anything heating up and causing any premature wear. lol I like this alt so much I might just get one for my lil Frontier.
I heard they are pretty nice and stable alt but I am not digging the CNC'd milled Aluminum front case what if that heats up and causes the front plate to bend a little causing pre mature belt wear? Tell me how it goes. I need one myself and I actually kinda do for my system but Idk if I wanna spend $500 and they allll start like that including Mechman who is the competitor of DC power. As well as probably iraggi.
#56
Sup guys, didnt wanna post a new thread since its the same topic but, I am in need of a higher than stock am alternator, I came across these on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...#ht_1191wt_889
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...#ht_1474wt_938
What do you guys think? they also offer 1 year warranty for both.\
I think $500+ for an alternator is insane, you can buy a low mile VQ30 for that much lol
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...#ht_1191wt_889
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...#ht_1474wt_938
What do you guys think? they also offer 1 year warranty for both.\
I think $500+ for an alternator is insane, you can buy a low mile VQ30 for that much lol
Last edited by tigersharkdude; 11-19-2010 at 02:50 PM.
#58
I also bought and installed this same alternator about 6 months ago. I am pumping 2100 watts rms and this alternator hangs very well. The voltage is a little high for me but its doing well. at idle im at 15 volts the most I droped to with strong battery draining bass hits is about 13.8 and thats at idle. This alternator deff produces. It is bolt on. Slight larger casing makes it harder to install. I recommend removing at least the rad fans as well. I went with 0 guage kicker wire for everything including the grounds in the big 3. 300 amp inline fuses two at front battery coming from alternator and leaving towards the rear of the car. two in the rear entering my deka intimidator battery and leaving the battery to my 2 kicker amps. I am pushing 2 kicker l7 12's and 2 sets of the qs components. Made a huge difference once I got the alternator. Stock alternator was draining me down to about 10.9 volts at idle with bass slamming.
Dave,s customer service was great. I had an issue with the alternator being so good that it spiked a little when there was a demand in the system that quickly went away. I would spike at about 15.8 volts. He recommended I attach the sense wire directly to the b+ terminal on the alternator as well as have the deka battery in the rear to absorb the demands. I am doing fine now most I spike to is about 15.2 and thats only when the car is cold. His ratings are for a warm alternator. Not a cold one like everyone else advertises. It is truely 275 amps. You can tell. I am not an employee I hope my post count and my location can attest to that. I paid the full 500 for the unit. Shipping material was great also.
Dave,s customer service was great. I had an issue with the alternator being so good that it spiked a little when there was a demand in the system that quickly went away. I would spike at about 15.8 volts. He recommended I attach the sense wire directly to the b+ terminal on the alternator as well as have the deka battery in the rear to absorb the demands. I am doing fine now most I spike to is about 15.2 and thats only when the car is cold. His ratings are for a warm alternator. Not a cold one like everyone else advertises. It is truely 275 amps. You can tell. I am not an employee I hope my post count and my location can attest to that. I paid the full 500 for the unit. Shipping material was great also.
#59
That is exactly what I was thinking when I bought this. I did online research and also a local guy swore by his product. I didnt want to go with a cheapo and risk it dying quickly or not producing what I need. I went with over kill here for my setup by why not? I want to be safe. I talked to dave and he told me most of his sales are actually exported. They all told me I will never have to replace the alternator again and once you look at it you can tell its the truth. He said foreign countries with high temps buy them from him due to there long life span not having to get under the hood to replace so often.
#60
Agree with everything you said. This thing is a beast. lol More than I will ever need, but damn, its nice to know you have reserves like crazy. For anyone on the fence, let me tell you, after installing this, you will realize what we are stating is QFT! lol A friend of mine spent over $400.00 on a kinetik battery, which is an anwesome battery, but he quickly found out that he did it backwards. how the hell are you gonna charge it??? Still had dimming lights etc. Its better to replace the alt, and just make do with a Duralast gold or something til you can save back up for the Kinetik. But hey I understand the money flow. Still cant go wrong here. Still loving mine. Loaded down with a Leviathan, ALL focal speakers, Kenwood DNX-9140, and the new Xbox 360 slim 250GB. No issues at all.
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