rear speaker problem
#1
rear speaker problem
i got a new radio installed and new front speakers and new rear speakers. for some reason my back speakers are not loud at all (no bass) and my front speakers sound louder. i cant figure out wtf is wrong. is the rear speaker signal stronger? maybe the person hooked up the front speakers to the rear output wire?
#2
Yeah man, you left way to many details out. About the only thing helpful that you offered was that someone else did the hookup. First off, did you ask him to recheck it, and explain to him your issue with the sound?
Now, what kind of speakers in front, and in back? What head unit? Were there no amps added, just speakers directly connected to teh head unit?
Now, what kind of speakers in front, and in back? What head unit? Were there no amps added, just speakers directly connected to teh head unit?
#3
Yeah man, you left way to many details out. About the only thing helpful that you offered was that someone else did the hookup. First off, did you ask him to recheck it, and explain to him your issue with the sound?
Now, what kind of speakers in front, and in back? What head unit? Were there no amps added, just speakers directly connected to teh head unit?
Now, what kind of speakers in front, and in back? What head unit? Were there no amps added, just speakers directly connected to teh head unit?
stereo
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JVC+-+50...&skuId=9766628
front speakers
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics...8/product.html
rear speakershttp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300377822000&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_3482wt_973
#4
Those are some pretty cheap knockoff brand speakers in my honest opinion. Be that as it may, the head unit is decent, JVC, 50 watts per channel, should drive those speakers well.
Check polarity on all the speakers, be sure the positive wires coming from the head unit is going to the pos on all 4 speakers, and Neg is going to neg...
As far as rear speakers, for them to sound good, the mounting is important. Is there any material over them that can be removed? are they sealed flush into the back deck properly? Point is, hold a speaker in your hand it sounds one way, seal it up into the back deck or an enclosure of some sort, and all the resonance appears, which will make a speaker louder, not just sound better...
You're going to have to poke around a bit, there's not going to be a silver bullet from anyone here with this situation...
Check polarity on all the speakers, be sure the positive wires coming from the head unit is going to the pos on all 4 speakers, and Neg is going to neg...
As far as rear speakers, for them to sound good, the mounting is important. Is there any material over them that can be removed? are they sealed flush into the back deck properly? Point is, hold a speaker in your hand it sounds one way, seal it up into the back deck or an enclosure of some sort, and all the resonance appears, which will make a speaker louder, not just sound better...
You're going to have to poke around a bit, there's not going to be a silver bullet from anyone here with this situation...
#5
maybe its the negative and positive wires are mixed up. how do i know what connector is + and which is - ? they look the same and the speakers dont say it on them.
imma just have to rewire it all when i get a chance. reason i payed him was cuz i didnt have time to do it myself.
btw like i said i know the speakers are not high but they will do for now lol
what speakers do u recommend? links?
imma just have to rewire it all when i get a chance. reason i payed him was cuz i didnt have time to do it myself.
btw like i said i know the speakers are not high but they will do for now lol
what speakers do u recommend? links?
#6
yea the rear speakers have the bose housing cover over them. would an amp help? i have a two 12" sub box in my trunk not connected that i wonna hook up too.
any write ups?
any write ups?
Last edited by nyc_ink; 07-20-2010 at 02:53 PM.
#7
speak english next time, I hate coming on the internet to find ebonics, broken english, and the use of numbers in place of words.
and if your car has bose, that may be your problem. I know in the 4th gens bose is a major hassle. The factory amps and speakers run off of a different ohm than aftermarket speakers. I am NOT a by any means a master at car audio, I'm just throwing that out there as I encountered the same problem with my 99 with bose
and if your car has bose, that may be your problem. I know in the 4th gens bose is a major hassle. The factory amps and speakers run off of a different ohm than aftermarket speakers. I am NOT a by any means a master at car audio, I'm just throwing that out there as I encountered the same problem with my 99 with bose
#8
speak english next time, I hate coming on the internet to find ebonics, broken english, and the use of numbers in place of words.
and if your car has bose, that may be your problem. I know in the 4th gens bose is a major hassle. The factory amps and speakers run off of a different ohm than aftermarket speakers. I am NOT a by any means a master at car audio, I'm just throwing that out there as I encountered the same problem with my 99 with bose
and if your car has bose, that may be your problem. I know in the 4th gens bose is a major hassle. The factory amps and speakers run off of a different ohm than aftermarket speakers. I am NOT a by any means a master at car audio, I'm just throwing that out there as I encountered the same problem with my 99 with bose
#9
Im not making myself feel better. Im just saying that its easier for people to comprehend what the problem is if they dont have read something a few times to make sure they got it right.
I def. would check the bose situation out. I went out to my car last night after reading this thread to check my rears. And they arent as loud as the fronts. Try running new speaker wire directly from behind the headunit to the rear speakers
I def. would check the bose situation out. I went out to my car last night after reading this thread to check my rears. And they arent as loud as the fronts. Try running new speaker wire directly from behind the headunit to the rear speakers
#10
Agreed, run dedicated speaker wire from the head unit to all 4 speakers if that wasn't already done. Thicker wires if possible will give you best signal. As far as knowing which is neg, and which is pos, the manual for the speakers might help. Not sure if those cheap things have a website, but you could always check there. When all else fails, just make sure they are all hooked up the same way. Hard to do when you have two different type of speakers from front to back, but it's the best you can do is try.
An amp would certainly help in any of these situations, but the head unit is really strong with 50W per channel. Now, don't compare that 50W with a JL amp that's 50W X4, because you'll hear a whole new world of clarity from a quality amp over a powerful head unit. But all that said, you should still fell pretty good with the existing stuff you have...
Far as the covers over the speaker, as long as there's no mesh or padding over them, you should be good. But check that out...I know in my 07 there was insulation over the top of both the factory sub's...
An amp would certainly help in any of these situations, but the head unit is really strong with 50W per channel. Now, don't compare that 50W with a JL amp that's 50W X4, because you'll hear a whole new world of clarity from a quality amp over a powerful head unit. But all that said, you should still fell pretty good with the existing stuff you have...
Far as the covers over the speaker, as long as there's no mesh or padding over them, you should be good. But check that out...I know in my 07 there was insulation over the top of both the factory sub's...
#11
Im not making myself feel better. Im just saying that its easier for people to comprehend what the problem is if they dont have read something a few times to make sure they got it right.
I def. would check the bose situation out. I went out to my car last night after reading this thread to check my rears. And they arent as loud as the fronts. Try running new speaker wire directly from behind the headunit to the rear speakers
I def. would check the bose situation out. I went out to my car last night after reading this thread to check my rears. And they arent as loud as the fronts. Try running new speaker wire directly from behind the headunit to the rear speakers
no prob man. thanks for the info. i checked yesterday and some wires are hooked up to the bose harness/wires that i guess was connected to the bose unit. im gonna buy thick speaker wire and do direct connections and see if it would sound better.
#12
Agreed, run dedicated speaker wire from the head unit to all 4 speakers if that wasn't already done. Thicker wires if possible will give you best signal. As far as knowing which is neg, and which is pos, the manual for the speakers might help. Not sure if those cheap things have a website, but you could always check there. When all else fails, just make sure they are all hooked up the same way. Hard to do when you have two different type of speakers from front to back, but it's the best you can do is try.
An amp would certainly help in any of these situations, but the head unit is really strong with 50W per channel. Now, don't compare that 50W with a JL amp that's 50W X4, because you'll hear a whole new world of clarity from a quality amp over a powerful head unit. But all that said, you should still fell pretty good with the existing stuff you have...
Far as the covers over the speaker, as long as there's no mesh or padding over them, you should be good. But check that out...I know in my 07 there was insulation over the top of both the factory sub's...
An amp would certainly help in any of these situations, but the head unit is really strong with 50W per channel. Now, don't compare that 50W with a JL amp that's 50W X4, because you'll hear a whole new world of clarity from a quality amp over a powerful head unit. But all that said, you should still fell pretty good with the existing stuff you have...
Far as the covers over the speaker, as long as there's no mesh or padding over them, you should be good. But check that out...I know in my 07 there was insulation over the top of both the factory sub's...
so what kind of amp should i buy then?
and the covers are the metal mesh ones.
#13
Ive been looking at this
Infinity Reference amp
* 4-channel car amplifier
* RMS Power @ 4 ohms: 75 watts x 4
* RMS Power @ 2 ohms: 90 watts x 4
* RMS Power @ 4 ohms bridged: 180 watts x 2
* CEA-2006 compliant
* Variable high- and low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
* Variable bass boost (0-6 dB at 50 Hz)
* Class-AB amplifier design
* MOSFET power supply
* Preamp-level inputs and outputs
* Fuse rating: 35A x 2
* Maximum Input Signal: 6V
* Maximum Sensitivity: 100mV
* 14-3/4"W x 2-11/16"H x 9"D
OR THIS
Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 120 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 300 x 4
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 150 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 300 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-20k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 73 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
Infinity Reference amp
* 4-channel car amplifier
* RMS Power @ 4 ohms: 75 watts x 4
* RMS Power @ 2 ohms: 90 watts x 4
* RMS Power @ 4 ohms bridged: 180 watts x 2
* CEA-2006 compliant
* Variable high- and low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
* Variable bass boost (0-6 dB at 50 Hz)
* Class-AB amplifier design
* MOSFET power supply
* Preamp-level inputs and outputs
* Fuse rating: 35A x 2
* Maximum Input Signal: 6V
* Maximum Sensitivity: 100mV
* 14-3/4"W x 2-11/16"H x 9"D
OR THIS
Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 120 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 300 x 4
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 150 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 300 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-20k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 73 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
Last edited by tigersharkdude; 07-21-2010 at 04:39 PM.
#14
Ive been looking at this
Infinity Reference amp
* 4-channel car amplifier
* RMS Power @ 4 ohms: 75 watts x 4
* RMS Power @ 2 ohms: 90 watts x 4
* RMS Power @ 4 ohms bridged: 180 watts x 2
* CEA-2006 compliant
* Variable high- and low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
* Variable bass boost (0-6 dB at 50 Hz)
* Class-AB amplifier design
* MOSFET power supply
* Preamp-level inputs and outputs
* Fuse rating: 35A x 2
* Maximum Input Signal: 6V
* Maximum Sensitivity: 100mV
* 14-3/4"W x 2-11/16"H x 9"D
OR THIS
Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 120 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 300 x 4
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 150 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 300 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-20k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 73 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
Infinity Reference amp
* 4-channel car amplifier
* RMS Power @ 4 ohms: 75 watts x 4
* RMS Power @ 2 ohms: 90 watts x 4
* RMS Power @ 4 ohms bridged: 180 watts x 2
* CEA-2006 compliant
* Variable high- and low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
* Variable bass boost (0-6 dB at 50 Hz)
* Class-AB amplifier design
* MOSFET power supply
* Preamp-level inputs and outputs
* Fuse rating: 35A x 2
* Maximum Input Signal: 6V
* Maximum Sensitivity: 100mV
* 14-3/4"W x 2-11/16"H x 9"D
OR THIS
Kenwood Excelon XR-4S
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 120 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 300 x 4
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 150 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 300 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-20k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 73 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
so the 4 channel amp is for the front and rear speakers right?
and i guess a mono amp is for sub's?
so ill need to different amps?
#15
well you can get a 5 channel amp, but the sub channel is usually like 250 at 4ohms on cheaper amps. IMHO I would go with 2 different amps. Be cautious with those speakers though. Just a warning.
#16
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