Hello fellow org members...I need some help, I'm putting together a diagram of my sound setup I'm going to put in my Max when I get it & start fixing it up this summer. Until I remembered that there is an ohms law..I tried reading up on how to figure out the v's, amps & stuff but yeah that didn't work out.....So here's my setup. *Yes I know the setup is pricey*

Head unit:
Avic-Z140BH

Front Speakers:
Pioneer TS-A1304C
5-1/4" component speaker system ---> power range: 2-35 watts RMS (300 watts peak power)

Rear Speakers:
Pioneer TS-A1604C
6-3/4" component speaker system — also fits many 6-1/2" openings ---> power range: 2-50 watts RMS (350 watts peak power)

Amp:
Pioneer GM-D9500F
4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 ----> 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
200 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

Crossover*Also for when I put in the sub*:
Kicker KX3
Active 3-Way Electronic Crossover ---> front outputs: variable 40-300 Hz (18 dB per octave) or 700-8000 Hz (with 20X multiplier)
rear outputs: variable 40-300 Hz (18 dB per octave)
subwoofer output: variable 45-250 Hz (18 dB per octave)
bass boost (up to 18 dB at 40 Hz) with wired remote control

Of coarse I WILL be going with a capacitor no matter what. So will I be ok with my setup?

 

Do you already have all of this stuff?

 

Not yet by this summer yeah if all the power & stuff adds up

 

Well I would reconsider the equipment as most of it is garbage aside from the head unit.

 

And no need for a capacitor at all. The setup is not all that pricey. I would look at the DNX9990 instead of the z140.

 

Even after I add the sub? I know some people who have dimming problems with out a capacitor ; yeah that headunit does look good, im gonna compare it to the pioneer

 

What would you suggest? I'm Jamaican so most of the music I listen to have a lot of bass with a good mixture of mids & highs + i love to play my music loud, not to the point where you can me down the block but a couple houses down clearly

 

capacitors are a band aid. if your lights are dimming get a better alternator.

I agree that pioneer isnt the best choice for everything. there aren't many brands that I would say you should go whole car with. got a budget?

 

Thanks, I guess you're right but this setup came up to 800 even with free shipping *with little accessories for the install*

 

for $800 budget and all that stuff I would drop the crossover. most new amps have pretty decent built in crossovers. I will do some looking around and see what I can put together for head unit, 5.25 speakers, 6.5 speakers, and 4 channel amp.

 

Really? Wow i really appreciate it

 

check out www.sonicelectronix.com for good prices. I have used them before. First pass I was able to use a PPI amp, JL audio components and a JVC or pioneer Double Din head unit in your price range.

There really are tons of options though. I like Alpine, Pioneer, JVC for head units. I usually look for 4volt preouts if I an get it. PPI, Kicker, Rockford, Alpine all make decent affordable amps. 75 watts by 4 would be plenty. 50 x 4 would probably be enough. For affordable components I like MB Quart, JL Audio. Kicker isnt bad. Alpine is pretty good too. Infinity and Polk used to be decent, havent heard them in a while. You dont need a separate crossover. I would choose all of those brands over the pioneer setup you had picked out.

dont worry about ohms law with this setup. to keep your balance and fader you are going to use a traditional wiring setup and it will all be compatible and running at 4ohms almost every component set on the market.

 

thanks, for all the help

 

Why didn't you continue to PM me about this? I would have helped you with equipment selection.

You're local. Which means you can get equipment from THE DON.

 

Hold off on the purchas of a new alt, there are some things that you can do that is cheaper and plus if you are not pushing some high numbers in wattage, upgrading the electrical may not be necessary.


You can install a big 3 kit. It consists of upgrading the battery to chasis ground wire with something along the lines of 4 awg or larger. Then you will need to run another ground from the engine block to the frame with the same gauge wire. Then the final piece would be to run an additional power wire preferably with a ANL or inline fuse from the battery to the positive side of your alt. Try that first if your equipment puts a strain on your stock electrical and see if that works. All of that is cheaper than having to have the alt replaced with a higher voltage one

 

That's not a ground kit. What you described above is known as the "Big 3"

But I concur that someone should do this before upgrading the alternator.

 

Doing too many things at once, leads you to make a slight mistake.....fixed

 

grounding upgrade and "big 3" is a good point, forgot about that. I did it on my Ford Focus and my Chevelle. can make a huge difference. I also tend to replace my battery terminals and as many of the cables as I can get to. Partly for appearance but also because I dont like the quality of the factory cabling, especially over the years. I wouldnt do anythign until you get the system in. Your lights may be just fine.