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How many layers is excesive? sound deadening

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Old 01-10-2002, 08:30 PM
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How many layers is excesive? sound deadening

i plan on using Raammat and maybe other stuff to deaden my car, my question is: is there a point where using more layers is not helping? i plan on using about 2-4 layers
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Old 01-10-2002, 08:44 PM
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How many layers are excessive? There is no such thing. Just like there is no such thing as an excess of dB's SPL. Or an excess of horsepower, torque, or octane levels.
 
Old 01-10-2002, 09:32 PM
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on some of the panels in my car, I had to use at least 3 layers to get the effects I wanted. some of them have 5 layers even, but only a few.. (i.e. rear corners of the trunk)
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Old 01-10-2002, 11:09 PM
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Re: How many layers is excesive? sound deadening

Originally posted by mattattax
i plan on using Raammat and maybe other stuff to deaden my car,
Hey Matt,
I see people talking about this Raammat,,,,where do you get it and who makes it. Is it better than dynamat, brown bread, and all the others? I was actually planning on getting something like a dynamat trunk kit, but if there is something just as good for a lower price....ya know...

And hey jmax, and matt93,,,how would you guys rate the mats to the sprays?? which do you prefer??? Thanks.....DMAN
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Old 01-11-2002, 12:22 AM
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I installed a few rolls of the Raammat, and I'm very pleased with it.

only other products I've used are dynamat, and some generic stuff I bought at MCM Electronics a while back. wasn't too impressed with the generic stuff, but the Raammat is good stuff.
do a search on raammat on this forum and you'll find lots of info there, including contact info.
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Old 01-11-2002, 01:18 PM
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The sprays are difficult to rate well. Not that they don't work well. It's just that you have to put so many layers to get the same thickness as with a mat material. THe benefit is that you can spray it in some areas that your hands and arms won't reach. The only one I have used that is marketed for damping is the cascade audio spray. You have to shake it several minutes vigorously prior to spraying. And then shake again every few minutes. It dries enough foor recoating in about an hour if it's 70 degrees or more. If you put it on too thick it will drip. It's easy to clean up because it is water based. But this also makes it somewhat britle. If you spray it on something that can flex, it will eventually chip off. I think there should soon be much better spray materials on the market because the technology exists. But the prices could keep them out of reach of the common man.
 
Old 01-11-2002, 02:12 PM
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just anther suggestion.. but if you want to deaden the sound in your trunk cheap, my friend used expanding foam. he filled both quater panels and the entire trunklid.. his trunk is about as solid as it can be.. put it this way, with his system at full volume, you can stand behind his trunk and it hardly even vibrates compared to what it use to do.. i plan on doing this also..
 
Old 01-21-2002, 09:05 AM
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question

can u find out the exact type of foam he used i am really interested - my trunk rattles horribly - and i mean horribly
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Old 01-21-2002, 08:09 PM
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Most likey the common polyurethane expanding foam. The latex variety remains soft when cured.
 
Old 01-23-2002, 10:33 AM
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try to stick with minimal expansion foam.. it's a lil more dense than the other stuff.
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Old 02-14-2002, 12:59 AM
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what is expanding foam and where can i get it from?

Originally posted by KCTYPHOON
just anther suggestion.. but if you want to deaden the sound in your trunk cheap, my friend used expanding foam. he filled both quater panels and the entire trunklid.. his trunk is about as solid as it can be.. put it this way, with his system at full volume, you can stand behind his trunk and it hardly even vibrates compared to what it use to do.. i plan on doing this also..
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Old 02-14-2002, 07:44 AM
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Any home depot, lowes, wal-mart, or similar store. As above, use the minimal expanding foam. And make sure it is polyurethane, not latex. Aside from that use caution when installing. If this stuff is put in a small hole and the exits blocked - it will continue expanding by breaking the weld joints. I normally apply in layers to avoid this destructive attribute. But once this stuff cures, roughly 24 hours, it will significantly stiffen the panels that are filled.
 
Old 02-14-2002, 09:33 AM
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Just a precaution --> Read the can before you start. If you do, you will find instructions for use and a statement telling you that if the foam gets on your skin and cures, then no solvent will remove it, not even paint thinner. It will only come off in time. Trust me, I've been there and it is a PITA. Try to use latex gloves and you will be okay. You don't want to go around for the first 2-3 days with your hands constantly feeling sticky and then spend 2 more days looking like your fingers are peeling apart. I had the nozzle of a can burst and the stuff ran all over me. It waa annoying. I washed my hands immediately after and the friggin' soap suds stuck to my hands!!! Anyway, enough ranting, I just wanted to warn you.
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Old 02-14-2002, 10:57 AM
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can you tell where exactly to apply this foam.....did i put in the trunk itself or in the jack/power antenna area?

Originally posted by shaekwon
what is expanding foam and where can i get it from?

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Old 02-14-2002, 02:46 PM
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Originally posted by shaekwon
can you tell where exactly to apply this foam.....did i put in the trunk itself or in the jack/power antenna area?

i just finished doing my entire trunk lid, and driver side rear quarter. im gonna do the passanger side also and make sure i leave enough room to fit my jack back in.. another word of advice.. when you do the trunk lid there are two VERY important things you NEED to be attentive to. first, there is a bar connecting the trunk lock cylinder to the release latch in the center of the trunk lid. if you want to be able to open your trunk with a key, dont let the foam get anywhere near there. i took that bar off since it wasnt connected to begin with, and since ive owned the car ive never used the key to open it anyway. secondly, MAKE SURE that when your filling the trunk lid that you stay away from the release latch. trust me on this one. i did my enitre trunk lid and noticed that i got some in the latch before i closed it. i said to myslef, "good thing i caught that". i took it off, cleaned it and the area around it, reinstalled it, and manually made sure that all the parts moved freely. simple enough rite? nope.. closed the trunk, and it wouldnt open with the automatic release ( which is all i have). had to take out the enitre back seat, and i was just able to wedge myself in between my box and the trunk lid to hit the emergency release.. me and a friend spent 3 hours trying to get it to work. couldnt figure out what the hell was wrong. i went to nissan, ordered a new bottom catch, top latch, and the actuator. put em all in, still dont work.. dont even ask me, you have no idea what a ***** this has become.. sooooo... do your self a favor, stay away from the latches..
 
Old 02-14-2002, 04:37 PM
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door panels

how are you going to fill the passenger side?
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Old 02-14-2002, 04:55 PM
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Re: door panels

Originally posted by k-man
how are you going to fill the passenger side?
the stuff im using has a long plastic nozzle. its not flexible and the foam comes in a can thats sperated into 2 parts. it mixes in the nozzle, and if it harders up i can just put a new one on cause it comes with extras. my friend got it for me from his job.. but anyway, im gonna pull off the panel for the jack, and take it out. then stick the can and nozzle as far into the quater panel towards the back seat and just let the can empty. if it starts gettin towards where the jack goes ill just stop and let it stiffen up a little, then go back and get whatever parts i missed.
 
Old 02-14-2002, 08:08 PM
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You can get the same type of stuff at www.fiberlay.com or www.fibreglast.com
 
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