Making Subwoofer sound better
#1
Making Subwoofer sound better
I added a subwoofer to the Bose system and the bass doesn't sound as tight as it should be. I connected the line out converter to the rear speakers AFTER the signal was amplified by the Bose amp. The bass was there but sounds nasty so I tried connecting the line-out converter to the rears before the sig. was amplified by the Bose amplifier and there was almost NO bass at all.
I did a search and someone recommended getting the Audiocontrol overdrive . Is this the only solution or is there some other way to make the signal going to the sub much clearer. Thanks
I did a search and someone recommended getting the Audiocontrol overdrive . Is this the only solution or is there some other way to make the signal going to the sub much clearer. Thanks
#2
Do you have an amp too or just the sub? In my other car, I had the amp for the sub drawing its signal from my rear speakers, and the bass was just right, sometimes even a little too much. I had a 150 W Rockford Fosgate amp and a 10" dual-voice coil sub by Alpine I believe (unfortunately, it's all still in that car, which my brother will be driving since he just got his license...)
If you don't have an amp, get one. If you have an amp, keep playing with its settings... (or get a more powerfull one)
If you don't have an amp, get one. If you have an amp, keep playing with its settings... (or get a more powerfull one)
#3
Yes I do
I have an amp connected to the sub. The bass sounds okay when it's not turned too high...but when it is the bass sounds too low. It doesn't hit hard...just a really low bass note. Thanks for the reply
#4
Re: Yes I do
Originally posted by SupaMaxima
I have an amp connected to the sub. The bass sounds okay when it's not turned too high...but when it is the bass sounds too low. It doesn't hit hard...just a really low bass note. Thanks for the reply
I have an amp connected to the sub. The bass sounds okay when it's not turned too high...but when it is the bass sounds too low. It doesn't hit hard...just a really low bass note. Thanks for the reply
#5
Re: Re: Yes I do
Originally posted by JAIMECBR900
you should not feed an amp an amplified signal. Distortion will abound. Feed the amp a clean signal and your problems should be resolved. BTW what kind of amp and sub are we talking about here?.
you should not feed an amp an amplified signal. Distortion will abound. Feed the amp a clean signal and your problems should be resolved. BTW what kind of amp and sub are we talking about here?.
#6
Re: Re: Re: Yes I do
Originally posted by zboy
I think that depends on the amp. Both of the sub amps I've owned (JVC and Rockford Fosgate) had line level inputs, and they also had high-level speaker inputs. I always had to use the speaker-level inputs because none of my other speakers were on separate amps, so their level was much higher than the line-level signal the amp would get from the head unit.
I think that depends on the amp. Both of the sub amps I've owned (JVC and Rockford Fosgate) had line level inputs, and they also had high-level speaker inputs. I always had to use the speaker-level inputs because none of my other speakers were on separate amps, so their level was much higher than the line-level signal the amp would get from the head unit.
#9
Getting an aftermarket headunit will sound 3x better. Using aftermarket like pioneer allows you to adjust the bass WAY better than the stock bose doublin din. If you invest some money in the subs, spend a few hundred on the headunit. You wont regret, in my sig, i have the pioneer 4400 2001 model.
#11
Originally posted by SupaMaxima
I have a 10" Bazooka RS and a Jensen Amp. If I don't get a new head unit should I get a line driver and which kind would be best. Thanks a bunch guys
I have a 10" Bazooka RS and a Jensen Amp. If I don't get a new head unit should I get a line driver and which kind would be best. Thanks a bunch guys
#12
Hey thanks all for your replys...but just had one more question. When I wired the line out converter to get the signal before it's amplified by the Bose amps...why is there no bass at all. Actally not that there's nothing, but there's very very little. Thanks again.
#14
I have done exactly what you are asking for, so here is what I did.
Parts List:
1) PAC SNI-35 - Circuit City ($20-30)
2) Active Crossover - Circuit City (around $70-100 depending on model)
3) Power cable kit - Circuit City ($40-70 (use 4-8 guage)
4) 3M Connectors - Radio Shack (minimum of 4 - $5-10)
5) 3' Shielded RCA wire - Circuit City ($15-20)
6) 10' Shielded RCA wire - Circuit City ($40)
7) 3' Extra Blue/Black/Red power wires - Circuit City (ask your salesperson for some, they gave it to me for free)
8) Lighted Switch (any color) - Discount Auto Parts ($5)
Go to the stores and buy the parts. I have a MTX Amp, so I bought a MTX Active Crossover. What crossover you choose is up to you.
Installation:
Remove the headunit from the dash, and use 3M connectors to tap the rear speaker signal coming out of the head unit. Connect the PAC SNI-35 here. When I remounted the radio, I was able to put the PAC SNI-35 under it, with the adjustment dials facing the shifter, so all I have to do is remove the trim UNDER the radio (around the shifter) if/when I need to make an adjustment, not the entire radio.
Now, run the 10' shielded RCA wires down the passenger's side. Take out the back seat by pulling the 2 white/clear tabs near the floorboard, and lift up. That will give you access to the trunk.
Run the power (red) wire and the switch (blue) wire down the driver's side. It can be tricky, but maybe I will take pictures of how to get the power (red) wire through the rubber firewall stopper in the driver's front fenderwell. (Requires removing the fenderwell cover - 10 screws or so). Leave one end of the switch (blue) wire in the driver's floorboard.
Run the 10' RCAs into the trunk.
Hook them up to your crossover.
Run the 3' RCAs from your crossover to your Amp.
Run speaker wire from Amp to Sub.
Connect the main power line to the Amp.
Connect the extra power (red) wire from the Amp to the Crossover.
Connect the ground to the Amp.
In the trunk, there is a screw/bolt on both sides of the back wall behind the pretty covers, hook up the ground wire here.
Connect the extra ground (black) wire from the Amp to the Crossover.
Connect the blue (switch) wire to the Amp (accessory).
Connect the extra accessory (blue) wire from the Amp to the Crossover.
Switch Installation:
To be "pretty", use a dremel tool and dremel out one of the blank pieces of plastic inserts and mount the switch there. I used the blank one next to the Auto/Cancel switch for the power seats.
Connect the blue (switch) wire from the Amp/Crossover to the switch. Use the switch's instructions, and connect it to the connecter that isn't the POWER or GROUND.
Connect a piece of ground (black) wire from the switch to a ground source. There is a screw just to the left of the fuse panel that works nicely.
Connect a piece of power (red) wire from the switch to one of the empty fuses at the fuse panel. Make suer the fuse is powered ONLY when the car is on, not in ACC mode (as this will drain your battery).
Adjustments:
Make adjustments to the PAC SNI-35 as needed (and as instructed per the instructions... you do read those?) I found that I turned mine all the way up.
Turn on the switch that powers the Amp.
Oh, and you get better bass at higher volumes if you turn the SCV to HIGH. Hit the audio button on the radio until you see it, then hit the up button until it says HIGH.
Enjoy You New Bass.
Parts List:
1) PAC SNI-35 - Circuit City ($20-30)
2) Active Crossover - Circuit City (around $70-100 depending on model)
3) Power cable kit - Circuit City ($40-70 (use 4-8 guage)
4) 3M Connectors - Radio Shack (minimum of 4 - $5-10)
5) 3' Shielded RCA wire - Circuit City ($15-20)
6) 10' Shielded RCA wire - Circuit City ($40)
7) 3' Extra Blue/Black/Red power wires - Circuit City (ask your salesperson for some, they gave it to me for free)
8) Lighted Switch (any color) - Discount Auto Parts ($5)
Go to the stores and buy the parts. I have a MTX Amp, so I bought a MTX Active Crossover. What crossover you choose is up to you.
Installation:
Remove the headunit from the dash, and use 3M connectors to tap the rear speaker signal coming out of the head unit. Connect the PAC SNI-35 here. When I remounted the radio, I was able to put the PAC SNI-35 under it, with the adjustment dials facing the shifter, so all I have to do is remove the trim UNDER the radio (around the shifter) if/when I need to make an adjustment, not the entire radio.
Now, run the 10' shielded RCA wires down the passenger's side. Take out the back seat by pulling the 2 white/clear tabs near the floorboard, and lift up. That will give you access to the trunk.
Run the power (red) wire and the switch (blue) wire down the driver's side. It can be tricky, but maybe I will take pictures of how to get the power (red) wire through the rubber firewall stopper in the driver's front fenderwell. (Requires removing the fenderwell cover - 10 screws or so). Leave one end of the switch (blue) wire in the driver's floorboard.
Run the 10' RCAs into the trunk.
Hook them up to your crossover.
Run the 3' RCAs from your crossover to your Amp.
Run speaker wire from Amp to Sub.
Connect the main power line to the Amp.
Connect the extra power (red) wire from the Amp to the Crossover.
Connect the ground to the Amp.
In the trunk, there is a screw/bolt on both sides of the back wall behind the pretty covers, hook up the ground wire here.
Connect the extra ground (black) wire from the Amp to the Crossover.
Connect the blue (switch) wire to the Amp (accessory).
Connect the extra accessory (blue) wire from the Amp to the Crossover.
Switch Installation:
To be "pretty", use a dremel tool and dremel out one of the blank pieces of plastic inserts and mount the switch there. I used the blank one next to the Auto/Cancel switch for the power seats.
Connect the blue (switch) wire from the Amp/Crossover to the switch. Use the switch's instructions, and connect it to the connecter that isn't the POWER or GROUND.
Connect a piece of ground (black) wire from the switch to a ground source. There is a screw just to the left of the fuse panel that works nicely.
Connect a piece of power (red) wire from the switch to one of the empty fuses at the fuse panel. Make suer the fuse is powered ONLY when the car is on, not in ACC mode (as this will drain your battery).
Adjustments:
Make adjustments to the PAC SNI-35 as needed (and as instructed per the instructions... you do read those?) I found that I turned mine all the way up.
Turn on the switch that powers the Amp.
Oh, and you get better bass at higher volumes if you turn the SCV to HIGH. Hit the audio button on the radio until you see it, then hit the up button until it says HIGH.
Enjoy You New Bass.
#16
what kind of box do u have it in i remember when i was running rockfords i had them in a sealed box and it sounded like **** turned out being the box was way 2 big. So i got a smaller one and the difference was incredible. Boxes play a big part in the setup and are often overlooked. If you do not have the sub in the right enclosure it might not sound right, also depends on what kind of music u listen to and how u like your bass.... bandpass is loose bass so it's good for hip hop and **** like that, rock get a sealed box, bass is alot tighter. I personally like a sealed box.
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