Amp rack is almost complete...
03-12-2002, 10:10 AM
#1
Amp rack is almost complete...
these are about 140k each, so I'm just going to link them..
it's all together, but the aluminum is nasty looking. next weekend I'm going to take it all apart and clean and re-brush all the aluminum so it will look nice and purdy.
Also still have to add the 2F cap and power distribution components.. they're going to go in the large space between the two small amps.
I'm also going to have to figure out where to mount a crossover back there someday.
Hopefully I'll the rack finished and installed this weekend... BUT my other engine project is just about done at the shop too, so I may be installing boost this weekend.. not sure which to do yet.
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00024.JPG -amprack in the garage
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00025.JPG -amprack in the trunk #1
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00026.JPG -amprack in the trunk #2
it's all together, but the aluminum is nasty looking. next weekend I'm going to take it all apart and clean and re-brush all the aluminum so it will look nice and purdy.
Also still have to add the 2F cap and power distribution components.. they're going to go in the large space between the two small amps.
I'm also going to have to figure out where to mount a crossover back there someday.
Hopefully I'll the rack finished and installed this weekend... BUT my other engine project is just about done at the shop too, so I may be installing boost this weekend.. not sure which to do yet.
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00024.JPG -amprack in the garage
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00025.JPG -amprack in the trunk #1
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00026.JPG -amprack in the trunk #2
03-12-2002, 10:19 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 644
PPPPSSSsssssstttttt-put the boost in, stereo can wait for the next weekend.
I am getting new stuff too, but I have to still wait on the speakers and amp
2 DD 2012-4
Lanzar Opti100.1d
the boxes are ready and waiting, it will be set up similar to sweetsounds, but mine has 12's and ports going up through where the back speakers were. Can't wait, now I just a 2-3 business week lead in time till the speakers will be here, I guess that is what you have to cope with for handmade stuff. DD home is right down close to you too Matt, right in OK City.
Can't wait to see your setup when you get it all in and are able to take the trip up here for summer meets.
I am getting new stuff too, but I have to still wait on the speakers and amp
2 DD 2012-4
Lanzar Opti100.1d
the boxes are ready and waiting, it will be set up similar to sweetsounds, but mine has 12's and ports going up through where the back speakers were. Can't wait, now I just a 2-3 business week lead in time till the speakers will be here, I guess that is what you have to cope with for handmade stuff. DD home is right down close to you too Matt, right in OK City.
Can't wait to see your setup when you get it all in and are able to take the trip up here for summer meets.
03-12-2002, 10:52 AM
#5
about 2300W RMS.
subs, midbass, mids, tweeters. each range gets it's own amp.
subs will get 600w/ channel
midbass gets 200/ channel
mids get 150/channel
tweeters get 50/channel.
the other 50x2 amp is a "spare". mostly there for looks, but I'll call it a backup amp.
subs, midbass, mids, tweeters. each range gets it's own amp.
subs will get 600w/ channel
midbass gets 200/ channel
mids get 150/channel
tweeters get 50/channel.
the other 50x2 amp is a "spare". mostly there for looks, but I'll call it a backup amp.
03-12-2002, 12:21 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 644
Originally posted by Matt93SE
DD is in OK city? kickass! I may have a close job yet when I get my EE degree! wonder if they need design engineers.
DD is in OK city? kickass! I may have a close job yet when I get my EE degree! wonder if they need design engineers.
, besides employee discounts from them would be a great thing to get.
03-12-2002, 09:53 PM
#8
I'm going to attach them to the metal rails underneath the amps, then run them to the sides and down the back. the speaker wiring will all go to one large quick-disconnect connector, the RCA cables another, and the power another.. that way it's 3 connections and a few bolts and the whole thing comes out.
03-13-2002, 12:03 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 119
just a thought...
Originally posted by Matt93SE
I'm going to attach them to the metal rails underneath the amps, then run them to the sides and down the back. the speaker wiring will all go to one large quick-disconnect connector, the RCA cables another, and the power another.. that way it's 3 connections and a few bolts and the whole thing comes out.
I'm going to attach them to the metal rails underneath the amps, then run them to the sides and down the back. the speaker wiring will all go to one large quick-disconnect connector, the RCA cables another, and the power another.. that way it's 3 connections and a few bolts and the whole thing comes out.
03-13-2002, 12:06 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 119
just a thought...
Originally posted by Matt93SE
I'm going to attach them to the metal rails underneath the amps, then run them to the sides and down the back. the speaker wiring will all go to one large quick-disconnect connector, the RCA cables another, and the power another.. that way it's 3 connections and a few bolts and the whole thing comes out.
I'm going to attach them to the metal rails underneath the amps, then run them to the sides and down the back. the speaker wiring will all go to one large quick-disconnect connector, the RCA cables another, and the power another.. that way it's 3 connections and a few bolts and the whole thing comes out.
What if you ran the wiring THROUGH the tubing, and drilled holes out in the backs of each amp for the plugs to go to the amps?? Run the other end down to the bottom of the tubing where the quick connects would be. That way, unplug, take out, and no mess. Not sure how much room you have in the tubes, but it was just an idea.
DMAN
03-13-2002, 09:45 AM
#11
Re: just a thought...
I thought of that, but the tubing isn't large enough. that's 3/4" tubing with 1/8" wall, so there's only 1/2" inside it.. that's not even large enough for the power cable to get through, let alone signal and speaker cables too.
Originally posted by DMAN11
Hey Matt,
What if you ran the wiring THROUGH the tubing, and drilled holes out in the backs of each amp for the plugs to go to the amps?? Run the other end down to the bottom of the tubing where the quick connects would be. That way, unplug, take out, and no mess. Not sure how much room you have in the tubes, but it was just an idea.
DMAN
Hey Matt,
What if you ran the wiring THROUGH the tubing, and drilled holes out in the backs of each amp for the plugs to go to the amps?? Run the other end down to the bottom of the tubing where the quick connects would be. That way, unplug, take out, and no mess. Not sure how much room you have in the tubes, but it was just an idea.
DMAN
03-13-2002, 09:12 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 119
Re: Re: just a thought...
Originally posted by Matt93SE
I thought of that, but the tubing isn't large enough. that's 3/4" tubing with 1/8" wall, so there's only 1/2" inside it.. that's not even large enough for the power cable to get through, let alone signal and speaker cables too.
I thought of that, but the tubing isn't large enough. that's 3/4" tubing with 1/8" wall, so there's only 1/2" inside it.. that's not even large enough for the power cable to get through, let alone signal and speaker cables too.
Hmmm, bummer.... Sorry dude, just a thought. The rack looks pretty sweet, and even with the wires on the outside,,, it should be cool if you tie them up all even. Good luck with the rest of the setup....DMAN
03-14-2002, 09:08 AM
#13
Re: Re: Re: just a thought...
Originally posted by DMAN11
Hmmm, bummer.... Sorry dude, just a thought. The rack looks pretty sweet, and even with the wires on the outside,,, it should be cool if you tie them up all even. Good luck with the rest of the setup....DMAN
Hmmm, bummer.... Sorry dude, just a thought. The rack looks pretty sweet, and even with the wires on the outside,,, it should be cool if you tie them up all even. Good luck with the rest of the setup....DMAN
03-16-2002, 08:12 AM
#14
Re: Amp rack is almost complete...
Hopefully I'll the rack finished and installed this weekend... BUT my other engine project is just about done at the shop too, so I may be installing boost this weekend.. not sure which to do yet.
Do Boost first! , Then do Rack, then do rear window tint....
Do Boost first!
, Then do Rack, then do rear window tint....
03-17-2002, 03:37 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,007
Re: Amp rack is almost complete...
Originally posted by Matt93SE
these are about 140k each, so I'm just going to link them..
it's all together, but the aluminum is nasty looking. next weekend I'm going to take it all apart and clean and re-brush all the aluminum so it will look nice and purdy.
Also still have to add the 2F cap and power distribution components.. they're going to go in the large space between the two small amps.
I'm also going to have to figure out where to mount a crossover back there someday.
Hopefully I'll the rack finished and installed this weekend... BUT my other engine project is just about done at the shop too, so I may be installing boost this weekend.. not sure which to do yet.
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00024.JPG -amprack in the garage
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00025.JPG -amprack in the trunk #1
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00026.JPG -amprack in the trunk #2
these are about 140k each, so I'm just going to link them..
it's all together, but the aluminum is nasty looking. next weekend I'm going to take it all apart and clean and re-brush all the aluminum so it will look nice and purdy.
Also still have to add the 2F cap and power distribution components.. they're going to go in the large space between the two small amps.
I'm also going to have to figure out where to mount a crossover back there someday.
Hopefully I'll the rack finished and installed this weekend... BUT my other engine project is just about done at the shop too, so I may be installing boost this weekend.. not sure which to do yet.
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00024.JPG -amprack in the garage
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00025.JPG -amprack in the trunk #1
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00026.JPG -amprack in the trunk #2
03-18-2002, 11:22 PM
#17
I have NEVER had a problem with these amps.. Sin,
that's why I'm buying all of them I can afford to buy!
the problem is clipping and signals.. these amps aren't designed for the 4v drive voltages many new head units put out. they were built back in the day where a 2v output was absolute max. with the gain turned all the way down on these, you'll get peak output with 2.5V input I think.
but the only thing that's physically gone wrong with these is I've toasted a couple resistors on the input stage (most likely because of the 4V pre-outs on my head unit).. amp still worked just fine, but the resistors have turned a dirt-brown color.. Whie I could still read the colors on them, I bought some more of the same value to replace them if/when they go.
jmax, the entire amp rack is 35" wide and 16" tall or so. the large amp on the bottom is 29" long. the small ones on the top are 9" long.
there's more pics up now... the list starts at about 24 and goes to 54.
look at:
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00035.JPG
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00036.JPG
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00038.JPG
that's why I'm buying all of them I can afford to buy!
the problem is clipping and signals.. these amps aren't designed for the 4v drive voltages many new head units put out. they were built back in the day where a 2v output was absolute max. with the gain turned all the way down on these, you'll get peak output with 2.5V input I think.
but the only thing that's physically gone wrong with these is I've toasted a couple resistors on the input stage (most likely because of the 4V pre-outs on my head unit).. amp still worked just fine, but the resistors have turned a dirt-brown color.. Whie I could still read the colors on them, I bought some more of the same value to replace them if/when they go.
jmax, the entire amp rack is 35" wide and 16" tall or so. the large amp on the bottom is 29" long. the small ones on the top are 9" long.
there's more pics up now... the list starts at about 24 and goes to 54.
look at:
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00035.JPG
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00036.JPG
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...k/DSC00038.JPG
03-19-2002, 08:20 AM
#19
Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 61
looks good. what company amps are they, and why dont you make a spectical out of the wiring job, in my old 91 max i had all of the power/speaker/signal cables in the trunk exposed and made a really interesting display out of them. i also was running a aluminum amp rack for that system. (in later years i changed the whole thing to a totally differnt set up about 3 times so the exposed wiring kinda never made it back into the picture, but in my 2k2 i will definatly have some cool exposed stuff going on.)
Sunny
Sunny
03-19-2002, 09:39 PM
#20
those are the classic PPI Art Series amps.. still setting the standard for car audio...
I'm hiding the wiring because this system is going to be quickly removable for track days... exposed wiring just leads to problems with snagging, smashing, abrasion, etc. plus there's not exactly much room to make them visible either.
I'm hiding the wiring because this system is going to be quickly removable for track days... exposed wiring just leads to problems with snagging, smashing, abrasion, etc. plus there's not exactly much room to make them visible either.
03-20-2002, 11:09 PM
#24
Originally posted by time2reup
that's what I call a distribution block brother
that's what I call a distribution block brother
mmmmm purdy.
03-21-2002, 12:11 AM
#26
it's basically microphone cable. (you'll see is sold in stores as "twisted-pair" audio cable) for anywhere from $0.50/ft to $5/ft..
it's got two insulated conductors twisted around each other, then another bare wire twisted in with it.. then all that's wrapped with a foil shield (that's the blue/red/green you see on them)...
that is the shield to prevent noise from getting into the system.
on a balanced-line microphone cable, the bare conductor is the signal ground, then the two insulated wires carry the signal, with one 180 degrees out of phase with the other.. when it gets to the other end, one waveform is flipped back over and added to the other one.. this way any noise that is picked up along the way SHOULD be completely cancelled out. (do an internet search on "balanced line signal" for more information).
But the main reason I used this stuff is that it's MUCH smaller than the regular RCA cables. the cable I bought has 10 pairs of wires inside it (for up to 10 line level signals- I'm using 6 of them.)..
it's about 5/8" diameter and means only one wire to run from front to back.
Had I used "regular" RCA cables (which I already had, but didn't want to use), the bundle of 6 RCA cables was about 1.5" diameter, and was a jungle to sort through and try to keep from tangling.. not to mention hiding it under the carpet.
soooo, now I have everything in one cable..
plus it was cheap. I think I paid $0.28/ft for it.
the old RCA cables I made cost me $1/ft just for the cable, then I had to pay $3 each for the RCA connectors.
keep in mind, each cable run was about 12 ft long and I had to run 6 of them. that's $72 in RCA cable alone, plus connectors.
This time around, I bought some different connectors (same price, different appearance), and spend a total of $5 on cable.
it's got two insulated conductors twisted around each other, then another bare wire twisted in with it.. then all that's wrapped with a foil shield (that's the blue/red/green you see on them)...
that is the shield to prevent noise from getting into the system.
on a balanced-line microphone cable, the bare conductor is the signal ground, then the two insulated wires carry the signal, with one 180 degrees out of phase with the other.. when it gets to the other end, one waveform is flipped back over and added to the other one.. this way any noise that is picked up along the way SHOULD be completely cancelled out. (do an internet search on "balanced line signal" for more information).
But the main reason I used this stuff is that it's MUCH smaller than the regular RCA cables. the cable I bought has 10 pairs of wires inside it (for up to 10 line level signals- I'm using 6 of them.)..
it's about 5/8" diameter and means only one wire to run from front to back.
Had I used "regular" RCA cables (which I already had, but didn't want to use), the bundle of 6 RCA cables was about 1.5" diameter, and was a jungle to sort through and try to keep from tangling.. not to mention hiding it under the carpet.
soooo, now I have everything in one cable..
plus it was cheap. I think I paid $0.28/ft for it.
the old RCA cables I made cost me $1/ft just for the cable, then I had to pay $3 each for the RCA connectors.
keep in mind, each cable run was about 12 ft long and I had to run 6 of them. that's $72 in RCA cable alone, plus connectors.
This time around, I bought some different connectors (same price, different appearance), and spend a total of $5 on cable.
03-26-2002, 09:10 AM
#27
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 41
Double take!!!
Nice Setup bro! You may want to hookup the amps to that they don't come in contact with the metal shelves. 2500 watts RMS WOW! I like.. How much did this layout cost you? NICE RIDE!!! Good luck bro... Keep keeping us posted...
03-26-2002, 10:25 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 644
hey Matt,are those focals going to firing freeair, or is the whole trunk going to be used as the box. I don't know much about focals and how they operate in large volumes, but the 35 series DD works great in large volumes from what I have read.
03-26-2002, 09:52 PM
#30
Yes, they're free-air subs. I've heard good reviews about them, but haven't even listened to them myself yet.. still don't have the amp rack done. maybe in the new few weeks I'll finish it..
Amps are bolted straight to the metal rack for more grounding.. isolating them from ground can sometimes cause more noise problems. if you lok on the circuit boards, the screws that hold the boards into the metal case have traces connecting to the ground plane.. so the frame is internally connected to the system ground anyway.. one more way to prevent noise. PPI did their homework on these amps.
Amps are bolted straight to the metal rack for more grounding.. isolating them from ground can sometimes cause more noise problems. if you lok on the circuit boards, the screws that hold the boards into the metal case have traces connecting to the ground plane.. so the frame is internally connected to the system ground anyway.. one more way to prevent noise. PPI did their homework on these amps.
03-26-2002, 11:25 PM
#31
looks nice... i got a newbie question though, arent the amps/rack bound to rattle (seeing how they are sorta free-floating) with enough bass?
sorry, just a dumb question im sure you already thought about that ahead
sorry, just a dumb question im sure you already thought about that ahead
03-27-2002, 12:25 AM
#32
They would have to be close to something that vibrated in order to rattle.
i.e. bumping up against a piece of sheet metal.
the frame of the amp rack itself is extremely strong. I could stand on it and it wouldn't bend or break. the vibrations from the car driving down the road will be more severe than what the system could produce, so I'm not worried about vibrations in the least. If there were a CD changer bolted to the same frame, I might be a little concerned, but I'm still confident I wouldn't have any problems even with that.
i.e. bumping up against a piece of sheet metal.
the frame of the amp rack itself is extremely strong. I could stand on it and it wouldn't bend or break. the vibrations from the car driving down the road will be more severe than what the system could produce, so I'm not worried about vibrations in the least. If there were a CD changer bolted to the same frame, I might be a little concerned, but I'm still confident I wouldn't have any problems even with that.
03-27-2002, 07:32 AM
#34
As I said before...looking sweet Matt! Anymore news on the little "project" you were working on? I mean the thing with the temp sensors and all that jazz. I would definitely like to hear stuff on that once you are done. Maybe some schematics!!
03-27-2002, 09:11 PM
#35
Originally posted by Dustyroads
As I said before...looking sweet Matt! Anymore news on the little "project" you were working on? I mean the thing with the temp sensors and all that jazz. I would definitely like to hear stuff on that once you are done. Maybe some schematics!!
As I said before...looking sweet Matt! Anymore news on the little "project" you were working on? I mean the thing with the temp sensors and all that jazz. I would definitely like to hear stuff on that once you are done. Maybe some schematics!!
As far as where I'm at? I haven't thought any more about it. I've left room in the wiring scheme for the stuff I'd need, but other than that I haven't had time to mess with it- and won't until late this summer the way things are looking. probably do it for a senior design project next year or something.
pearl93max, my webpage is stupid... the webmaster keeps changing rights around so that you can and can't see the directory listings (based on the day and his mood). my webpage sucks anyway.
03-28-2002, 06:28 AM
#37
Originally posted by Matt93SE
schematics won't be available... I'm not going to put hours of blood and sweat into something like this, only to hand out the schematics.. it would be like Microshaft giving you a seconds CD with their source code on it. nuh uh, no way.
schematics won't be available... I'm not going to put hours of blood and sweat into something like this, only to hand out the schematics.. it would be like Microshaft giving you a seconds CD with their source code on it. nuh uh, no way.
J/K!! I understand what you're saying though. Well, I would definitely like to know the status when you get there. I have looked into doing some things with temp sensors and a small LED display to show the temps of each sensor and do some automatic fan turn-on, turn-off. Hmm....maybe I'll just work on somethings myself. Perhaps at some point we can compare notes.
03-28-2002, 10:54 PM
#39
[QUOTE]Originally posted by dba1999us
[B]
it all depends on what you wanna do and how you do it.
anything will be strong enough given the correct design and size/thickness of materials.
[B]
Originally posted by Matt93SE
They would have to be close to something that vibrated in order to
what if i make a rack with wood? cedar etc?
They would have to be close to something that vibrated in order to
what if i make a rack with wood? cedar etc?
anything will be strong enough given the correct design and size/thickness of materials.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fastcarny
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
14
10-12-2015 07:06 AM
popdedop
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
6
09-11-2015 11:17 AM