ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

Hi all. I bought a roll of peel and seal from lowes, and am gonna try it on my rear deck and trunk. but bfr i do, i read in one of the posts that its similar to raammat but it can really smell like tar in the summer. so bfr i put it in, i would like to how for sure if it will smell like tar in hot temp..
thanks

jmax

Get a heat gun or hair dryer, heat it up and decide for yourself. Everone's nose has diferent sensitivity to smells. Mine can't detect any tar scent in the peel & seal.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

ok thanks. should it be put on at a certain outside temp?

victor

iTrader: (1)

hey dude,

i just put some peel and seal in my trunk, and i have yet to smell it. it's been about a month already. really sticky stuff. should be fine to apply it now, what part of the country are you at?

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

midwest

Mikesburn

peel and seal?

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

hey vick. is there a certain wasy to wire the dual coil subs? i took the wires from the amp to the speaker terminal. from the speaker terminal ran 2 wires to the first set of subwoofer terminals. then from the first set of sub terminals i ran 2 wires to the second set of sub terminals. thats how i did it. now i hooked all the + ones to + and -ve to negative. do u think thats right?

victor

iTrader: (1)

right now you have the speakers wired in parallel, so you are putting a 2 ohm load on your amp. what amp do you have??? try to get back to me as soon as possible. i don't want you to burn your amp up by wiring it wrong.

victor

iTrader: (1)

it's similar to dynamat. it's deadening material found in the roofing section at lowes. really cheap too compared to dynamat.

it has a foil layer on top to block heat, like dynamat extreme. self sticking back to it, all that good stuff....

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

ok right now i have the alpine mrv100m pushing just one type r in a sealed box. I just took out the sub of the box to see if it will fit the box i made, and i forgot how it was wired, since i bought the sub already in the box.
the amp is @12.0 v
mono x 4 ohms = 100 rms
bridged into 4 ohms = 150 rms

i did the connection on the amp. i used #1 channels -ve and #2 channels +ve

i havent turned on the system after rewiring the sub though

victor

iTrader: (1)

is that amp stable at 2 ohms?? i couldn't find spec for it. if it's not stable you should wait till you can wire the other sub, so you'll have a 4 ohm load rather than the 2 ohm load with one sub.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

i dont know for sure. but i have been using it for about a month now without any problems. i just noticed that when i was wiring the sub, the wires going to the first terminals were long enough. but the -ve wire that was to go from the first -ve terminal to the second -ve terminal is short. now if i take the -ve wire from the first set of sub terminals and hook it up to the +ve of the second set of terminals, it reaches the +ve terminal fine and seems like it was meant to be short in length..

is there a set up like that?? i am sure i confused you. my dumb@ss should have noticed the wiring bfr i took it out

victor

iTrader: (1)

lol. i think i understand. if you were running two subs, that would make a lot of sense, cause if each sub iis wired that way, then you can wire the subs in parallel which would equal a 4 ohm load, which your amp can handle, but if you were running only one sub, then that would make sense.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

ok now i am confused. i have one amp running one type r. the sub altogether has 4 terminals. what would be the best way to wire the sub, keeping in mind that the amp is bridged?

if you can tell me how to wire it i will shutup. and not bug you until i get my second type r

victor

iTrader: (1)

i'm going to draw you a picture, cause i think it'll be kinda hard to explain to you. lol. but it's basically what you said before and how the wire is shorter and that stuff.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

ok. but then why do i have 4 wires altogether? from the digram you made, i can see that from -ve of amp to -ve of #1 coil. from +ve of amp to +ve of #2 coil. then a wire from +ve of #1 coil to -ve of #2 coil. If thats correct then why do i have 4 wires in the sub box, instead of 3

victor

iTrader: (1)

lol. i'm going to have to think about that one then..... and after a few minutes of thinking why you have 4 wires. the only thing i can think of is wiring it in parallel, like this:



except you'd connect the two negatives with one wire and then the 2 positives with one wire, and then a wire from the negative to the amp and the positives to the amp.

if it was done this way, then you amp is either stable at 2 ohms, or it shouldn't be wired like that.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

ok the manual says
speaker impedance 4 or 2 ohms
so the above diagram will work,,i think..thanks for all your help

victor

iTrader: (1)

no problem. by the way, i was figuring everything out according to your sub being dual 4 ohm. since you stated the model number as 1240, in your previous posts.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

hey vick. i am sorry for the confusion but the information was for the amp not the sub. the sub is DVC 1240 alpine r 12"..

alpine mrv-100m
ok the manual says
speaker impedance 4 or 2 ohms

victor

iTrader: (1)

oh ok. then the parallel setup will be fine. cool dude. later.

Mikesburn

Exactly like my sub!

victor

iTrader: (1)

i'm sure it doesn't look like that.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

lol

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

hey vic. i finally got the box done this weekend, i will post pics next week. when the specs say 150 rms bridged, or 100 rms x 2 mono. how does that work? i still haven't decided on a new amp to run the 2 alpine 1240 Type r's, so i am just using my mrv-100m. it has 4 out puts. right now i am running each sub independently from each channel, and have the subs wired like you suggested previously. but it doesn't sound very good. is it because of me running the subs mono? is it possible to run them parallel and bridge them?
thanks

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

bump

victor

iTrader: (1)

it might not sound good cause you probably aren't giving each sub enough power. just use one sub for now, until you get a new amp. underpowering the subs is risking blowing them.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

alright thanks. can u recommend some amps for around $500?

victor

iTrader: (1)

how much is the rms?? is it 300 or 600 on the subs??

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

300

victor

iTrader: (1)

i'd say give each sub 300-400 watts each. i'll go check out something in that range for about 500. 500 is a lot more than you probably need to spend on a sub amp. but 500 on an amp is quality.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

hey thanks for all your help. ok i will lower my range to 300 , and spend the rest, with a little more $ addition to get a y-pipe

victor

iTrader: (1)

lol. no problem. so for $300 i'd suggest the jbl 1200.1 http://www.jbl.com/car/product.asp?p...er=POS&cat=AMP

which can be had for right around 300
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/jbl.html

that'll give you 600 x 1 at 4 ohms. i think each of your subs are dual 4 ohm. so when you wire them up and bridge them you should have your 600 x 1, with each sub getting half of that.

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

ok i am sure that i am getting on your last nerve by now, so sorry. i looked at the sub box and it says 4 ohm + 4ohm dual voice coil..and thanks for the recommendation...

victor

iTrader: (1)

naw, dude, your not bothering me at all. if that is the case, 2 ohm +2 ohm, then the amp will run at 2 ohms, when you wire both subs together and bridge them. the amp will then put out 1200 watts, which should be better. 600 for each sub, with the peak of the power handling of the subs at 1000 i think, so your fine with 600. i hope it's not too loud for you.