So I was waxing my car today. IT was 60 degrees outside and partly cloudy. I use the higher end turtle wax (platnium I think) and the stuff kept drying on me. I said f-it and took someplace to have it done, threw out my wax and supplies. I give it up to you guys. You must have EXCELLENT patience because I get so p*issed off trying to get a good wax on my wax. It gets stuck in cracks and looks like crap. I bought a detail tool and that is worthless. I am oficially done waxing my car forever! I decided today that with the time I waste being angry and unhappy waxing my car I could be doing something better.

The question: What is the best spray on wax to use in terms of protecting the clearcoat and elasticity of the wax job? I still want to protect my paint I just don't want to waste a day doing it.

Thanks,

Mark

 

try to use some kind of wet wax. you spray it while the car is wet after washing it and use your drying towel and dry it with the wax on. it works but do a good wax job first and re up the paint with something like this..........

 

Maybe I think it is easier to wax a car than it really is because I own a detailing shop, but it shouldn't be too difficult especially if its not overwhelmingly hot out, and the sun is not directly on the paint of the car.

I started using a high end random orbit buffer to apply and take off wax because when you do it by hand every day, it starts to take a toll on your hands and elbows (note: this buffer is separate from my high speed rotary for polishing). However, here are a couple of tricks that might help you with hand waxing (but, as a detailer, I of course completely encourage you to bring your car to a pro!).

A lot of paste waxes come in liquid form too. I don't really prefer one over the other for hand waxing, but you might. Either way, the key is: "less is more." You could apply the wax as thick as a roll of quarters but only a miniscule amount of the wax actually stays on the paint to protect it, though that is enough for solid protection. So when you're applying, only use a little bit per panel. For example, if using liquid wax, squirting a line about 6 inches long (give or take) on a door should cover the whole thing. If you are using paste wax, you need only reapply at MOST once per panel, maybe even less. It takes practice to know how much to use.

When you get to places where there are cracks, door jambs, trim, or rubber moldings, go slower and try not to get it stuck in there. You can always remove it from trim and jambs anyway by opening the door and wiping it off, or using a plastic razor blade to get it out of crevices. Rubber trim is tough, usually a degreaser like simple green, or peanutbutter, will take it off.

Most waxes, for example Meguiar's Gold Class, doesn't need to stay on for a long time to be applied. Best bet is to pick up some of that, start applying it and as soon as the whole car has wax on it, start taking it off beginning with where you first put on wax. It is usually okay if it dries a little bit, that is to be expected, I don't know how much drying you are talking about though.

As far as spray waxes, I have used Meguiar's NXT Spray Wax and Meguiar's QuikWax, but I find they're not much easier than applying it normally anyway. For monthly maintenance cars I do (every money I pick up a customer's car and wash it, apply a spray wax or paint enhancer, clean wheels, dress tires, do door jambs, vacuum, dust dashboard, and do the windows), I use either an illuminating spray wax available only through my supplier, or occasionally Meguiar's QuikDetailer (consumer version) which is great as well. I believe QuikDetailer is known as Final Inspection on the professional line.

Hope this helped - if you have any more questions feel free to PM me.

 

Also, check out S100 since you don't have to let it sit and sry. Just wipe off immediately.

 

I'll second that. S100 is really easy to apply and remove. And providing you've prepped well (clay and polish) the shine is great.

 

Another way to get the wax out of cracks is using a baby toothbrush. It works great!!

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I think I prepped it pretty well although in 2 years I have never used a clay bar. I have used a high speed buffer with rubbing compound to strip it though. The stuff seemed to dry and when I tried to rub it out it was very hard and some spots of the pain t turned out "rough feeling". Some spots did not have the baby butt smoothness.
i was using one of those foam pads. I didn't let it dry more than maybe 2 minutes between application and buffing off yet it seemed like the wax just wouldn't come off? Has anybody had this happen? Should I wait longer? I would think only waiting 2 minutes (literally) the stuff should just buff right off right because it looked like it had hazed over?

 

Claying is pretty essential to ensure the "baby butt smoothness." It is the only thing that really gets all the stuff off of the paint. I've had the problem of wax not wanting to come off many times, which is why I switched to liquid car wax. I found that the paste wax left more of a chance of me leaving wax on the car after detailing it, which of course would be bad for business.

What do you mean you used a high speed buffer and rubbing compoud to strip it off? Compounding a car is risky business and one of the more time consuming/dangerous ways of stripping wax.

 

I always let my Meguires Gold Class dry for 15-20 minutes before I remove it. I find if I remove it before drying it will leave streaky spots on the finish.

The new Eagle One Nanowax however, needs nearly no dry time for it to work properly.

It all depends on the product.

 

hmmm i wipe off my paste gold class as soon as i put it on, guess next time im gonna leave it there a little longer.

 

I have a few questions for you.

a) What "cut" (abrasiveness level) was the rubbing compound? They come in light, medium, and heavy.

b) When you say rotary buffer, do you mean something like this:
http://www.makita.com/res_tools/imag...ng/9227c_l.jpg

c) What kind of towels did you use to remove the wax or compound?

 

You won't much wax left in the cracks if you apply it very thin. I also prefer paste waxes for that reason. With a liquid wax, you get a big blob of wax on the first spot you touch with the pad.
I also used to have a hard time buffing wax off when I used a cotton diaper to remove it (long time ago). Use microfiber towels for removing wax. They work wonders.

 

I believe it was a 20 00grit rubbing compound with a buffer like the one pictured above. It worked great. Inly botched a couple of tiny spots because I let the paint get too hot. All in all after I used the compound and waxed it the look was amazing. I know there is less abrasive compounds out there but I decided to go with this one