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thoughts on a 3 step system

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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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thoughts on a 3 step system

I think it's mothers...
1)oxidation remover
2)polish/sealant
3)carnuba wax.
All this product is liquid and retails for about 13 bux each. I have never clayed my car and the paint has some serious rock chipping in it. My car is green FSO sherwood evergreen or something like that.
Has anyone used this product before and what have the results been like? Would you reccomend applying this product by hand or using one of the machines (porter cable or whatever?)
I've seen the cheaper random orbital machines at Canadian tire for about $40 and thought of picking one of those up... is that a waste of money? Are one of these machines better than elbow grease?
I'm not looking for showcar/room perfection as I have neglected my paint for way too long and it's showing. Just want it shinny and I want the rain to bead off.
Thanks for helping...
Old Jun 15, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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nicee steps!!
Old Jun 15, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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gee thanks for the input. I was looking for opinions on how this product works, not somebody trying to get his/her newbie post count up.
Old Jun 15, 2006 | 06:47 PM
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This is what i use..... and my car shhhinnneessss.... i use an orbital buffer for the paint cleaner and the polish, then for the carnouba i hand wax....

i waxed my car last month and it water still beads...

i recommend it.
Old Jun 15, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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IMO, those buffers aren't worth the money, I have two generic buffers sitting at my house right now that haven't been touched in at least a year. I've switched (last year) to a PC.
The three step system(s) (Meg's, Mother's, etc) was my first step in starting my detailing hobby. Don't expect them to correct any paint imperfections by any means, but it will get your paint cleaner than you ever remember it. It will shine too, but it just wasn't enough for me.
Looking back at what you described as your "needs", I think this system will do fine for you. If I had to do this system, I would probably not waste my time doing it with a buffer.
BTW, I'm interested in seeing your Maxima's color...I thought Sherwood Green was only available on SE-L's? Maybe you have Sagemist? (Off the top of my head, I thought that FS0 was the paint code for Sagemist)
Old Jun 16, 2006 | 04:54 AM
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MAybe it is sagemist... I couln't remember the name of the color that matched the code.
You would reccommend putting in the elbow grease then huh?

Thanks for the suggestions. I know I could count on the .org for help.
Take care and have a great day.
VQMAXI17 thanks for the input. are you using one of the cheapo orbital buffers or one of the "good ones?"
Old Jun 17, 2006 | 06:14 AM
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It is Sagemist...nice color.

Basically, those "cheapo buffers" are good for applying and removing wax. It certainly doesn't make polishing any more effective, and may decrease the polishes effectiveness (since the polishing substances need to be worked into the paint and removed, not just applied). It will save you time, and will be easier on your arm(s), but I view the two buffers I have as ~$50 I could have spent else where.
Old Jun 19, 2006 | 08:11 AM
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Not sure about the buffer cuz I always detail by hand. That 3 step system sounds fine, but I would seriously recommend claying your car first. Especially if you have have neglected it for awhile. It really makes applying polish/wax much easier and the shine and 'feel' of the paint is worth the effort. Have fun (making the car shine is addictive lol). BTW, nice collor.
Old Jun 21, 2006 | 04:54 AM
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I have considered the clay bar thing, and I just feel that with all the rock chips, I'm better off starting with the 3 step system first. I have never had it power polished and I've owned it since 99. I can count on 4 fingers how many times I have waxed it by hand (not including the coin op carwash wax). I think I'll need to start slowly with the whole detailing thing and work my way up to clay.
Thanks for the comments about the color!! Have a great day!
Old Jun 21, 2006 | 08:05 AM
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IMO and I think others will agree, using the clay first will yield the best results. That way you start with a nice smooth finish which will enhance the results you get with the 3 step system. You will be amazed, I know that I was the first time I used the clay. Anyway, I'm not trying to tell you what to do because only you know how much effort you are willing to invest. I'm just saying that with the effort of the 3 steps, one extra step would make a lot of difference. Remember, this is just my opinion based on my experience. Good luck.
Old Jun 21, 2006 | 08:30 AM
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wash with dish soap, clay, paint cleaner, compound, polish, seal, wax. after all that your arms will be texas toast but it will be worth it
Old Jun 21, 2006 | 07:02 PM
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and a whole day will be spent "waxing" the car. Too many other things I gotta do instead. I'm not trying to put down the prefered method, I just don't have the time and I feel that My paint is in too rough shape to justify all that work. Thanks again. I'm gonna try the Meguairs 3 step in the next week or two (after it stops raining) and see how it goes. If the results are not to my liking, I'll pick up a clay bar and have at her.
Old Jun 21, 2006 | 08:09 PM
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If you claybar after the 3 steps you're just working backwards. If you start the 3 step system without properly taking off the paint contaminants you'll just be rubbing it all into your paint, making more damage (swirls, fine scratches). The claybar makes the paint super smooth... then you use the 3 step to 'seal in the freshness' so to speak. Claybarring after waxing would be a waste of time. Good luck.
Old Jun 22, 2006 | 03:21 AM
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dude just clay bar it takes an extra 30-40 minutes....
Old Jun 22, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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that's it huh. 3/4 hour. From reading the stickies on how to clay, I figured that it would take a few hours to do this for the first time.
Maybe I will attempt it first. Thanks guys. Which bar do you reccommend. I read that the mothers one is not really any good as it's too hard to use/break off.
Old Jun 27, 2006 | 08:51 AM
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I've used the Mother's clay and a few others. They all work fine. The clay is a fast process because you just spray a section with the lubricant (some folks use soapy water, but I've always used the spray lube that they force you to buy with the clay). Anyway, spray a section, then just slide the clay back and forth until it moves smoothly. Fold the clay, and start another section.

I agree that you can clay a Max in less than an hour, and it will make the other three steps go more quickly.

Also, break the clay in half before you start. That way, if you drop the piece you're working with on the ground, you can toss it out and switch to the other half.
Old Jun 27, 2006 | 06:10 PM
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I don't see the difference between claying the car and step one (except that claying seems to be the preferred method). When I looked at a system today, the first step looked like a paint cleaning step to me. What's the point of that if you've already clayed the car? I wouldn't think you'd need to do both, would you?
Old Jun 27, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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Clay removes particles embedded in the paint, but not paint contamination or oxidation. Trust me, you should do both. Do the baggie test before and after claying, and you will see what I mean.
Old Jun 28, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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What is the "baggie test"? Is that some kinda smoothness test and how do you do it?
thanks for answering my noobie questions...
Old Jun 28, 2006 | 09:20 PM
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Definitely clay, especially since you plan on using a sealant. Sealants leave a nice smooth surface but without claying the surface beforehand when you run your hand across the paint, you'll feel all this grit on an otherwise slick finish.
Old Jun 29, 2006 | 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JSMax
What is the "baggie test"? Is that some kinda smoothness test and how do you do it?
thanks for answering my noobie questions...
After washing your car, put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag, and (I think you should lube the surface if I'm not mistaken...) and if you feel the bag "snag" on your paint, it's time to clean. I personally have never used this test...simply because if you've never clayed your car's paint...then it needs it. I just bought the Meg's Smooth Surface Clay Kit which incl's a MF towel, Quik Detailer, 2 50g clays (individually sealed, and in a plastic case, very nice), and a sample of the cleaner wax for around $23. Not a bad deal at all.
Old Jun 29, 2006 | 04:45 PM
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That's the baggie test, though I didn't use lube the first time I tried it. The bag snags a lot before you clay, even if the car was just washed and polished. After clay, the baggie slides along without snagging.

I never heard of clay bars before reading these detailing forums (fora?). Now I'm a huge fan and advocate for them. My wife thinks I'm becoming obsessive about our cars. My next project is to try to bring back some life in the paint on my mother-in-law's old Toyota. She hasn't cared for the exterior for six years or more. Lots of contamination in the paint. It'll be a challenge, especially by hand. I assure you, clay will be the first step after washing.
Old Jun 30, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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That's where I'm at with not caring for the extiorer for at least the past 6 years. I've hand waxed it maybe 6 times at the most, but I do wash it 2 times/month. It should be more frequent I know, but .... well anything's an excuse. I'm gonna try that claymagic product... hopefully the wallyworld has it up here in canada...eh.
Thanks for all the advice, is there any particular tricks/tips to using the claybar or just follow the package directions?
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