New dyno of DE-K - 210 whp, 203 wtq
#1
New dyno of DE-K - 210 whp, 203 wtq
Well after my last dyno, I was a little disappointed because I only put down 183/185. Both dynos were Dynojet 248's I believe.
Since the last dyno, I had my 3 exhaust leaks fixed, I got a fresh new K&N intake with velocity stack, and I had a Nismo AFPR installed, and bumped up my FP a tad. From the new dyno, it looks like it could use a little more FP since it goes a little lean up top (thanks JWT).
Granted, it's not the same dyno, but you get an idea of what changed. Here's a before and after of my best run from last time and this time:
This shows it SAE corrected with level 1 smoothing. I think my exhaust leaks were throwing off my AF ratio in the lower RPMs....
Here is the uncorrected and unsmoothed graph of my best run:
I have the run files if anyone is interested.
I'm pretty satisfied with the results. Puts me right around 250 chp. If I can lower my AF ratio above 6000 rpm, and maybe get a PF TB I might be able to hit 220 whp. I also want to see how much power I get from opening my cutout. It should produce decent gains over my stock b pipe and 2k muffler. I didn't spray because my bottle was empty. The car looks like it's ready for the juice though. Then it's on to 300 whp....
Since the last dyno, I had my 3 exhaust leaks fixed, I got a fresh new K&N intake with velocity stack, and I had a Nismo AFPR installed, and bumped up my FP a tad. From the new dyno, it looks like it could use a little more FP since it goes a little lean up top (thanks JWT).
Granted, it's not the same dyno, but you get an idea of what changed. Here's a before and after of my best run from last time and this time:
This shows it SAE corrected with level 1 smoothing. I think my exhaust leaks were throwing off my AF ratio in the lower RPMs....
Here is the uncorrected and unsmoothed graph of my best run:
I have the run files if anyone is interested.
I'm pretty satisfied with the results. Puts me right around 250 chp. If I can lower my AF ratio above 6000 rpm, and maybe get a PF TB I might be able to hit 220 whp. I also want to see how much power I get from opening my cutout. It should produce decent gains over my stock b pipe and 2k muffler. I didn't spray because my bottle was empty. The car looks like it's ready for the juice though. Then it's on to 300 whp....
#4
Originally Posted by ajcool2
Nice job man. I forgot you had the cutout on your i30 I would have loved to hear how it sounds. And do you know what to use to see my graphs because I have no clue.
#5
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
Yeah, you need WinPEP, and I have it. Tell me your email and I can send it to you. From what I remember, the car sounds terrible with the cutout open- you probably would have hated it, and it would have made your ears bleed. Next time, next time...
#6
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
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Run files to I30tMikeD@hotmail.com thanks!
#10
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
What mods?
Also, you shouldn't use the non-SAE numbers even though they are higher.
Also, you shouldn't use the non-SAE numbers even though they are higher.
K&N intake w/velocity stack
JWT ECU w/7000 limit and 65 shot program
WSP y pipe
test pipe
2k muffler
UDP
Josh- Yeah right I'm coming for you on the auto-x. If Bauer can beat you, I know I can
#11
#13
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Nice numbers, luck im not 5speed.... yet
#14
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
Josh- Yeah right I'm coming for you on the auto-x. If Bauer can beat you, I know I can
444/DSP JOSH HICKEY
TIMES: 1) 46.781 2) 45.338 3) 45.322 4) 45.201
123/GS GEORGE BAUER
TIMES: 1) 50.154 2) 48.957 3) 47.551 4) 46.609
plus, I ran a class up (DSP, vice STX) and George ran G-stock, even though his car is ILLEGAL in that class with his springs (cheater!) and he should have been in STX as well.
#15
Originally Posted by irish44j
Check your numbers, son...George didn't come close to beating me.
I'm still coming for you next Saturday.
Don't you like how I have 200 wtq from 3200-4700 rpm?
One thing I noticed is that the set gear ratio for 4th gear is different between the two dyno shops, and shows up in WinPEP. That might account for most of the power gains. At least my AF looks better.
#16
#17
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
Josh, I know this. I was joking man hence the
I'm still coming for you next Saturday.
Don't you like how I have 200 wtq from 3200-4700 rpm?
.
I'm still coming for you next Saturday.
Don't you like how I have 200 wtq from 3200-4700 rpm?
.
anyhow.....I have a new trick up my sleeve for the saturday event myself......2.5 degrees negative camber up front
plus, new LCA bushings and tie rod ends, if I get around to them
plus....as of my test-drive 20 minutes ago, my VIAS is now operational. Next dyno (if I ever do it again), my numbers will be very close to yours...
#19
Originally Posted by steven88
josh, the switch over is very audible now? i say you slap on a berk/apex just to make sure
gonna stick with the GAB....I sold my Frankencar/Apexi setup a while back, and have never regretted it - I have better low-end with the GAB, and it's quite a bit quieter (I like quiet)....
#20
Originally Posted by irish44j
I know you were kidding...but I gotta stick up for my rep - still undefeated at autocross by Maximas and I30/I35s - 8 have tried, 8 have failed Someone will beat me eventually, but I'm not going to make it easy!
anyhow.....I have a new trick up my sleeve for the saturday event myself......2.5 degrees negative camber up front
plus, new LCA bushings and tie rod ends, if I get around to them
plus....as of my test-drive 20 minutes ago, my VIAS is now operational. Next dyno (if I ever do it again), my numbers will be very close to yours...
anyhow.....I have a new trick up my sleeve for the saturday event myself......2.5 degrees negative camber up front
plus, new LCA bushings and tie rod ends, if I get around to them
plus....as of my test-drive 20 minutes ago, my VIAS is now operational. Next dyno (if I ever do it again), my numbers will be very close to yours...
#21
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
Don't worry, I really don't expect to come close to your times until I get at least 3 more events in me. Only had one so far...You should be doing very well at the next event with the extra power and suspension parts. I'm trying to get in the second group.
#22
Originally Posted by irish44j
Are you already registered? Hope so, because the event is full. I'm going to try to run in the 3rd group....that way we avoid the problem from the Ripken event when we all ran in the same group so there was nobody to take pictures!
I only sent the email today, so I guess I didn't make it. Great. Oh well, more money for an alignment. I wonder if the LTB and traction bars have any affect on my alignment. I'll write a traction bar review thread in a few days. So far they eliminate at least 50% of wheel hop on my car with motor mounts. I suppose it has a good deal to do with the condition of the road. I can't decide yet how good they are.
#23
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
I only sent the email today, so I guess I didn't make it. Great. Oh well, more money for an alignment. I wonder if the LTB and traction bars have any affect on my alignment. I'll write a traction bar review thread in a few days. So far they eliminate at least 50% of wheel hop on my car with motor mounts. I suppose it has a good deal to do with the condition of the road. I can't decide yet how good they are.
#24
Originally Posted by irish44j
I have Rob (dblrr900) signed up as my "guest" at the event...he said he's 50/50 as to whether he will make it or not - if not, I'll let you know and you can take his place. Are you a CDC member?
#26
My AF ratio looks real nice up to about 5500 where it get progressively leaner until redline. I feel like I should fix this before I try and spray. I could send it back to JWT and see what sort of 'tuning' they can do, or I could try a SAFC or something similar, and see how it works with the JWT.....
#27
run files please to mdeezy@gmail.com
#28
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
My AF ratio looks real nice up to about 5500 where it get progressively leaner until redline. I feel like I should fix this before I try and spray. I could send it back to JWT and see what sort of 'tuning' they can do, or I could try a SAFC or something similar, and see how it works with the JWT.....
The better (newer) run had a ratio of 50.16
The older run had a ratio of 50.64
Which is the correct ratio?
I assume that takes care of most of my power gains. Now what do I do about my AF up above 5500?
Also- the dyno reads that I approach 14:1, but my IM wideband only showed a maximum of 13.2 at redline. As I had heard, tailpipe sniffers have a tendency to read lean.
#33
Originally Posted by michaelnyden
impressive! but that's with every bolt on in the book I assume?
#34
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,431
I was referring to dandymax...who looks as though he got 220 with headers, race pipe, catback, pulley, jwt ecu, and intake of course...but he is now shooting for 230 or 240 since they got the EU working to advance timing and rev limit...
no flywheel or cams though...or PF TB
no flywheel or cams though...or PF TB
#35
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
No, I don't have headers, a cat back, PF TB, or a good tune above 5500 rpm. There is more power to be had.
So its actually 205whp SAE with those mods.
#37
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
As mentioned earlier, the gear ratios in each shop was different for 4th gear in the Dyno run file.
The better (newer) run had a ratio of 50.16
The older run had a ratio of 50.64
Which is the correct ratio?
I assume that takes care of most of my power gains. Now what do I do about my AF up above 5500?
Also- the dyno reads that I approach 14:1, but my IM wideband only showed a maximum of 13.2 at redline. As I had heard, tailpipe sniffers have a tendency to read lean.
The better (newer) run had a ratio of 50.16
The older run had a ratio of 50.64
Which is the correct ratio?
I assume that takes care of most of my power gains. Now what do I do about my AF up above 5500?
Also- the dyno reads that I approach 14:1, but my IM wideband only showed a maximum of 13.2 at redline. As I had heard, tailpipe sniffers have a tendency to read lean.
Do you guys think I should try to tune with a VAFC, or send the ECU back to JWT and see if they can do some magic? I want to make sure it's perfect before I try and spray.
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