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3.5 Swap + 4psi of Turbo

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Old 01-31-2008, 12:10 PM
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3.5 Swap + 4psi of Turbo



Keep in mind, its a huge f'ing turbo. Stock the HX35 is meant to flow 19psi, so 4psi is well below its efficient range.

More pictures and VIDEOS coming from gtr_rider are soon on their way.
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:13 PM
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TUNE THAT THING!!!!


Also contemplate the z32 maf...But nice numbers anyway man! You seem to also have that damn dead spot in the midrange ~3800....EU it and crank up the timing!

Last edited by 98MaXeDouT; 01-31-2008 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:45 PM
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Where's the comp to NA? I see no DRF's in my inbox.
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:58 PM
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outch i thought itd be in the high high 200s. But i guess its all because of the efficiency range. Have fun with it though. Wish my 3.5 swap had a turbo on it too.
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Old 01-31-2008, 01:16 PM
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if I remember correctly from 3k-56k your dyno graph looks almost the same as your n/a runs and from 56k and beyond you made alittle more power.

did you heat wrap your piping yet if not that should help you pickup a few ponies in the 5-56k range till you turn up the boost

6psi FTW till you install the IC
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Old 01-31-2008, 01:20 PM
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Not bad, although the A/F is a little rich for my taste. A bit more power can be had with a slightly leaner A/F (especially at that low boost level).

I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.


I better start thinking about upping my game
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Old 01-31-2008, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by meximax
Not bad, although the A/F is a little rich for my taste. A bit more power can be had with a slightly leaner A/F (especially at that low boost level).

I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.


I better start thinking about upping my game
guess he guess wanted to play it safe with the a/f
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:22 PM
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9psi + 11.7-12afr =
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:36 PM
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Well, i told him to tune for 10.5 since his non intercooled to keep it a little rich to prevent knock, but i guess at 4psi it can be leaner. also guys, he dosnt have his piping wrapped yet, that should help alot, it did for me. Also remember, this is on 4psi way below the turbos efficient leve, and also with the timing retarded of the 3.5 swap. Once this puppy has the intercooler and higher boost, watch out meximax! lol
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:40 PM
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here's the vid's yall

http://www.youtube.com/user/gtrrider
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:42 PM
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Definitely not enough psi for this turbo.

I found this hx35 map on a dsm forum. It may not be the real one, but it looks like it is. The dsm forum that I found it on also had REAL holset hx40 maps.

I mapped out a vq30 the other day and I'm not sure if I did it right... oh well.
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Old 01-31-2008, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 98MaXeDouT
TUNE THAT THING!!!!


Also contemplate the z32 maf...But nice numbers anyway man! You seem to also have that damn dead spot in the midrange ~3800....EU it and crank up the timing!
Heck no, considering what this engine has coming at it in the next few weeks or months, advancing the timing is the last thing I need, lol. And yea I am contemplating the Z32 MAF. We'll see once I turn up the boost and change the MAF Input how it goes, lol.

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Where's the comp to NA? I see no DRF's in my inbox.
I'll send you DRFs when you sign on AIM. And here's the graph...


I chose not to use the dyno from the cutout, cus obviously i dont have a cutout here. But even THIS comparo isnt fair- I was attempting timing advance and had ubber corrections on the AFC from the high FP I had, which I dont have anymore. So really the gains from one to another are considerably more than the graph shows. What they are exactly, who knows and who cares, lol. Now Im comparing what the dyno says from each boost level heheh. This was just the first one.

Originally Posted by Mymax97
outch i thought itd be in the high high 200s. But i guess its all because of the efficiency range. Have fun with it though. Wish my 3.5 swap had a turbo on it too.
Exactly. This turbo doesnt even know its spinning, lol. Take streetz' car for example- when he first dyno'd at 7.5psi, he was at 258whp. He turned up the boost to 10psi (just 2.5psi more!) and out of no where 312whp. Efficiency makes a world of difference. The more efficient the turbo is running, the more WHP you're going to gain per PSI incremented.

Originally Posted by t6378tp
if I remember correctly from 3k-56k your dyno graph looks almost the same as your n/a runs and from 56k and beyond you made alittle more power.

did you heat wrap your piping yet if not that should help you pickup a few ponies in the 5-56k range till you turn up the boost

6psi FTW till you install the IC
yea basically, lol. Remember its only 4psi, so its def similar shapes, just higher, lol.

My y-pipe and straight pipe are wrapped. I didnt wrap the B-pipe because I was contemplating changing the resonator, but really, its perfectly fine. But I think Im going to keep it. I love how the car sounds.

Originally Posted by meximax
Not bad, although the A/F is a little rich for my taste. A bit more power can be had with a slightly leaner A/F (especially at that low boost level).

I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.

I better start thinking about upping my game
Yea I COULD lean it out but no point if Im going to be adding boost.

Oh yea, once that IC is on, Im going for 6psi and keep it there for a bit til I get used to it. Slowly but surely, that BC is going to vent more and more .

Please dont up your game for a long while; give me a chance to catch up first! LOL

Originally Posted by t6378tp
guess he guess wanted to play it safe with the a/f
Correct

Originally Posted by Kevlo911
9psi + 11.7-12afr =
Im lost meng... But I'll see j00 for the March Meet :-D

Originally Posted by streetzlegend
gtr_rider-

THANKS!!!! :-D

Originally Posted by 505max94se
Definitely not enough psi for this turbo.

I found this hx35 map on a dsm forum. It may not be the real one, but it looks like it is. The dsm forum that I found it on also had REAL holset hx40 maps.

I mapped out a vq30 the other day and I'm not sure if I did it right... oh well.
Funny how I made a similar diagram LOL. But yes thank you for posting up yours
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Old 01-31-2008, 06:49 PM
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Car sounds like a monster once that turbo starts to speak up,
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Old 01-31-2008, 06:58 PM
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Old 01-31-2008, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
Funny how I made a similar diagram LOL. But yes thank you for posting up yours
No problem.

What compressor map did you find for the hx35?

Are you using the internal WG? If so, where did you get your actuator?

I like your setup!
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Old 01-31-2008, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 505max94se
No problem.

What compressor map did you find for the hx35?

Are you using the internal WG? If so, where did you get your actuator?

I like your setup!
I used a normal GT35 comp map, since the HX35 is rumored to have an very similar map to the GT35.

No the internal WG flap is welded shut. Im running a Turbonetics Deltagate Evolution WG. The actuator actually came with the turbo, but I threw it away last week.
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Old 01-31-2008, 08:30 PM
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That is a huge turbo lol. Can't wait to see what numbers you're hitting when you bump the boost up, intercool, and tune.

Are you going to do some tidying up back there? turbo/filter protection and oil line connectors other than zip ties would be a plus.
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by EnervinE
That is a huge turbo lol. Can't wait to see what numbers you're hitting when you bump the boost up, intercool, and tune.

Are you going to do some tidying up back there? turbo/filter protection and oil line connectors other than zip ties would be a plus.
Indeed!!!! Filter I may just make a shield for it (too cheap to buy one) facing the front-bottom part of it to better protect it from the blast of dirt.... or just wash it once a month, lol.

I dont see anything wrong with using zipties to hold up the feed line, lol. not like they're holding weight, they're just there to keep the line from dangling.
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:04 AM
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I'm really liking the rear mount idea... Do you or streetz get any drone?
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:41 AM
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actually, streetz gets drone, but thats cus he's auto so long gears FTL (in that sense, cus the turbo sure works better with the auto), but thats only when he opens the cutout which is directly infront of the turbine outlet. With it closed and it going through the muffler, you dont even hear it.. Quieter than stock.

Mine surprisingly with no muffler, just that "downpipe/ tailpipe", I get no drone/ resonance at all. My exh setup concists of ebay hotshot knock off headers on a custom equal-length ypipe, WSP straight pipe, WSP Resonated Bpipe, the T3 turbine housing of the turbo, and then that 3" downpipe/ tailpipe
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:05 AM
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Very nice cant wait for the big numbers. You florida guys are making it hard to be the first to do anything anymore. I guess I'll have to shoot for the first 3.5 swapped turbo auto 4th gen.
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ajcool2
Very nice cant wait for the big numbers. You florida guys are making it hard to be the first to do anything anymore. I guess I'll have to shoot for the first 3.5 swapped turbo auto 4th gen.

Hehe....I wouldnt recommend it.
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 98MaXeDouT
Hehe....I wouldnt recommend it.
Who died and made you God.
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Who died and made you God.

Well, you were taking more than .4secs to make a snippy remark, so i figured I'd take some work off your plate.

I have friends in boosted 3.5's that peel through auto "tranny's" like you peel through the real ones.
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Old 02-01-2008, 01:33 PM
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PDR HX35 ??

Since we're having turbo fever today, has anyone heard of or used the PDR version of the HX35?

" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.

The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).

The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown.
"

It sounds good, but ????

Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...
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Old 02-01-2008, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max
Since we're having turbo fever today, has anyone heard of or used the PDR version of the HX35?

" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.

The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).

The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown.
"

It sounds good, but ????

Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...

Turbo is that way to go
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Old 02-01-2008, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ajcool2
Very nice cant wait for the big numbers. You florida guys are making it hard to be the first to do anything anymore. I guess I'll have to shoot for the first 3.5 swapped turbo auto 4th gen.
Well you better hurry up before we do the 3.5 RMT auto down here .

hint: im currently looking for a motor (3.0 or 3.5 )
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max
Since we're having turbo fever today, has anyone heard of or used the PDR version of the HX35?

" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.

The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).

The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown.
"

It sounds good, but ????

Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...
Now you see Harold..., turbo is quite similar in a way to your nitrous juice. Only that with boost, you dont need to refill the turbo for it to spool .

Basically, lets face it- nitrous people are cheap and lazy But so are turbo people! :-D. They buy a kit, bolt it up, easy 200whp or w/e. Now, turbo technically speaking, although more expensive than a nitrous kit, requires just as much maintenance, also has ubber power gains, w/o having to constantly refill bottles. Just like a nitrous kit, if you want more power (instead of changing jets), you turn up the boost (assuming all else is good to support that boost of course). And unlike nitrous that you shouldnt use for more than a few seconds at a time in fear of melting valves, boost you can do it all you want as long as the intercooler and cooling system are up to par.

So really what Im saying here is.... you should boost that beast of yours
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
Now you see Harold..., turbo is quite similar in a way to your nitrous juice. Only that with boost, you dont need to refill the turbo for it to spool .

Basically, lets face it- nitrous people are cheap and lazy But so are turbo people! :-D. They buy a kit, bolt it up, easy 200whp or w/e. Now, turbo technically speaking, although more expensive than a nitrous kit, requires just as much maintenance, also has ubber power gains, w/o having to constantly refill bottles. Just like a nitrous kit, if you want more power (instead of changing jets), you turn up the boost (assuming all else is good to support that boost of course). And unlike nitrous that you shouldnt use for more than a few seconds at a time in fear of melting valves, boost you can do it all you want as long as the intercooler and cooling system are up to par.

So really what Im saying here is.... you should boost that beast of yours
Well, yeah, I am lazy, but not cheap... easy, but not cheap. Now with nitrous, you don't have all the overhead and maintenance that you have with a turbo. Wanna go fast? fill a bottle.. when it's over, it's over. I keep street racing to a minimum, and have never had the '99 over 110 mph. Not sure if I could, either, at least with the 3.0

The 3.5 project is basically starting over for me, and I hate the idea of chopping up exhaust systems and mounting a huge self-heating oven under the hood that requires constant work and attention. I'm married - I already gotta do that. But the tailpipe turbo ........

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Old 02-01-2008, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by grey99max
Well, yeah, I am lazy, but not cheap... easy, but not cheap. Now with nitrous, you don't have all the overhead and maintenance that you have with a turbo. Wanna go fast? fill a bottle.. when it's over, it's over. I keep street racing to a minimum, and have never had the '99 over 110 mph. Not sure if I could, either, at least with the 3.0

The 3.5 project is basically starting over for me, and I hate the idea of chopping up exhaust systems and mounting a huge self-heating oven under the hood that requires constant work and attention. I'm married - I already gotta do that. But the tailpipe turbo ........

Its really not that much more than n2o. We do have more parts but most dont need to be serviced. I mean what really would have to be serviced on a turbo car?
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by kzoosho
Its really not that much more than n2o. We do have more parts but most dont need to be serviced. I mean what really would have to be serviced on a turbo car?
just like nitrous gotta change the spark plugs more often, and you have to make sure the tune is good.

And as far as servicing required by turbo setups, really BOVs and WGs going bad isnt common as long as they are name brand. Turbos THEMSELVES could need rebuilding from time to time, but I think thats strongly influenced by driver inputs such as if the driver allows for cool-off time after driving around before shutting off the car, if he parks the car and walks away right after boosting, if he uses regular oil that breaks down pretty rapidly the moment it hits the hot turbo, if the restrictor is too big and allows for insane amounts of oil to go into the turbo and thus blowing the seals and end up with oil in the turbine and compressor, etc... At least a Holset, being made for a diesel motor, and being made of basically cast iron (whole turbo, not just turbine, thats why my turbo weights ~29lbs) is SUPPOSED to last ~200k miles before needing any servicing.
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:06 PM
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do not forget playing hide and seek with boost, exhaust, vac and oil leaks, oh then there's is the tuning, the startup and idle issues. with nitrous it's on or off you have a nitrous car or n/a car. there's time's I do not spray for a month or more so I can basicly treat the car as if it was n/a but with a turbo it's always turbo. each has it's pro's and con's long as your pleased and having fun is what matters
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by t6378tp
do not forget playing hide and seek with boost, exhaust, vac and oil leaks, oh then there's is the tuning, the startup and idle issues. with nitrous it's on or off you have a nitrous car or n/a car. there's time's I do not spray for a month or more so I can basicly treat the car as if it was n/a but with a turbo it's always turbo. each has it's pro's and con's long as your pleased and having fun is what matters
I def agree with your last sentence there. But I must say, my car being turbo, as long as i drive it normal, the turbo wont spool unless I put a load on it (AKA go for a hard acceleration). The rest of the time its just there not spolling. Yea I have bigger injectors but they're tuned for mid 14s a/f for closed loop (my o2s are unhooked), I have the same dang oil leaks I had before. the feedline/retun line/ oil pump/ sandwich plate are not leaking, and the starting "issues" are no different than the ones I've had ever since the IACV went bad back when I still rocked the 3.0, lol. So really its no different FOR ME, lol.

Only thing Im noticing is that my fuel goes out faster (but thats due to my heavy foot in this new-to-turbo learning stage), and that when I go WOT Im unleashin a beast... cant wait to turn up the boost to get that turbo into a more efficient range... omg omg omg.
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
I def agree with your last sentence there. But I must say, my car being turbo, as long as i drive it normal, the turbo wont spool unless I put a load on it (AKA go for a hard acceleration). The rest of the time its just there not spolling. Yea I have bigger injectors but they're tuned for mid 14s a/f for closed loop (my o2s are unhooked), I have the same dang oil leaks I had before. the feedline/retun line/ oil pump/ sandwich plate are not leaking, and the starting "issues" are no different than the ones I've had ever since the IACV went bad back when I still rocked the 3.0, lol. So really its no different FOR ME, lol.

Only thing Im noticing is that my fuel goes out faster (but thats due to my heavy foot in this new-to-turbo learning stage), and that when I go WOT Im unleashin a beast... cant wait to turn up the boost to get that turbo into a more efficient range... omg omg omg.
just give it alittle time and some of those problems will popup
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:25 PM
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Yea a turbo car is not always boosting. I mean if i drive normal my turbo wont spool so basically i have a n/a car also.
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:34 PM
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Anyways, back on subject.... Tomorrow morning.... FMIC!!!!!!! :-O!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Lol, lets see if I get up early enough to try it out. If not its going to have to wait a bit longer. Really I just need more clamps and POSSIBLY need more hoses- I mean couplers, lol. But I wont turn up the boost to 6psi til I get a chance to go for a drive with streetz to keep an eye on the a/f and tune accodingly.
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Old 02-02-2008, 09:42 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
Anyways, back on subject.... Tomorrow morning.... FMIC!!!!!!! :-O!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Lol, lets see if I get up early enough to try it out. If not its going to have to wait a bit longer. Really I just need more clamps and POSSIBLY need more hoses- I mean couplers, lol. But I wont turn up the boost to 6psi til I get a chance to go for a drive with streetz to keep an eye on the a/f and tune accodingly.
so are you planing to turn it up to 6psi with or without the ic

question does your wideband data log
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:07 AM
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IC is on, but the ends are capped. No time to do the piping for it, I gotta be at work in < 1 hr. But its in there sitting nice and clean .

t6378tp, Im not turning up the boost until the IC is done AND I have streetz with me in the car to keep an eye on the A/F as I drive. And yes it does, but the way it comes it only logs a/f based on seconds. I'd need an RPM signal caca thing to log RPM... maybe down the line I'll do that.
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:29 AM
  #39  
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Having to purchase an RPM converter = mulah, vs paying for it right away w/ a PLX unit I guess the only hope I have is to match or beat your best NA run

Good luck with it all
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Old 02-02-2008, 11:30 AM
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thanks man!
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