3.5 Swap + 4psi of Turbo
#1
3.5 Swap + 4psi of Turbo
Keep in mind, its a huge f'ing turbo. Stock the HX35 is meant to flow 19psi, so 4psi is well below its efficient range.
More pictures and VIDEOS coming from gtr_rider are soon on their way.
#2
TUNE THAT THING!!!!
Also contemplate the z32 maf...But nice numbers anyway man! You seem to also have that damn dead spot in the midrange ~3800....EU it and crank up the timing!
Also contemplate the z32 maf...But nice numbers anyway man! You seem to also have that damn dead spot in the midrange ~3800....EU it and crank up the timing!
Last edited by 98MaXeDouT; 01-31-2008 at 12:17 PM.
#5
if I remember correctly from 3k-56k your dyno graph looks almost the same as your n/a runs and from 56k and beyond you made alittle more power.
did you heat wrap your piping yet if not that should help you pickup a few ponies in the 5-56k range till you turn up the boost
6psi FTW till you install the IC
did you heat wrap your piping yet if not that should help you pickup a few ponies in the 5-56k range till you turn up the boost
6psi FTW till you install the IC
#6
Not bad, although the A/F is a little rich for my taste. A bit more power can be had with a slightly leaner A/F (especially at that low boost level).
I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.
I better start thinking about upping my game
I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.
I better start thinking about upping my game
#7
Not bad, although the A/F is a little rich for my taste. A bit more power can be had with a slightly leaner A/F (especially at that low boost level).
I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.
I better start thinking about upping my game
I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.
I better start thinking about upping my game
#9
Well, i told him to tune for 10.5 since his non intercooled to keep it a little rich to prevent knock, but i guess at 4psi it can be leaner. also guys, he dosnt have his piping wrapped yet, that should help alot, it did for me. Also remember, this is on 4psi way below the turbos efficient leve, and also with the timing retarded of the 3.5 swap. Once this puppy has the intercooler and higher boost, watch out meximax! lol
#10
#11
Definitely not enough psi for this turbo.
I found this hx35 map on a dsm forum. It may not be the real one, but it looks like it is. The dsm forum that I found it on also had REAL holset hx40 maps.
I mapped out a vq30 the other day and I'm not sure if I did it right... oh well.
I found this hx35 map on a dsm forum. It may not be the real one, but it looks like it is. The dsm forum that I found it on also had REAL holset hx40 maps.
I mapped out a vq30 the other day and I'm not sure if I did it right... oh well.
#12
I'll send you DRFs when you sign on AIM. And here's the graph...
I chose not to use the dyno from the cutout, cus obviously i dont have a cutout here. But even THIS comparo isnt fair- I was attempting timing advance and had ubber corrections on the AFC from the high FP I had, which I dont have anymore. So really the gains from one to another are considerably more than the graph shows. What they are exactly, who knows and who cares, lol. Now Im comparing what the dyno says from each boost level heheh. This was just the first one.
if I remember correctly from 3k-56k your dyno graph looks almost the same as your n/a runs and from 56k and beyond you made alittle more power.
did you heat wrap your piping yet if not that should help you pickup a few ponies in the 5-56k range till you turn up the boost
6psi FTW till you install the IC
did you heat wrap your piping yet if not that should help you pickup a few ponies in the 5-56k range till you turn up the boost
6psi FTW till you install the IC
My y-pipe and straight pipe are wrapped. I didnt wrap the B-pipe because I was contemplating changing the resonator, but really, its perfectly fine. But I think Im going to keep it. I love how the car sounds.
Not bad, although the A/F is a little rich for my taste. A bit more power can be had with a slightly leaner A/F (especially at that low boost level).
I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.
I better start thinking about upping my game
I can already see that beast peeking out, can't wait to see the results once your open it up.
I better start thinking about upping my game
Oh yea, once that IC is on, Im going for 6psi and keep it there for a bit til I get used to it. Slowly but surely, that BC is going to vent more and more .
Please dont up your game for a long while; give me a chance to catch up first! LOL
Correct
Im lost meng... But I'll see j00 for the March Meet :-D
THANKS!!!! :-D
Definitely not enough psi for this turbo.
I found this hx35 map on a dsm forum. It may not be the real one, but it looks like it is. The dsm forum that I found it on also had REAL holset hx40 maps.
I mapped out a vq30 the other day and I'm not sure if I did it right... oh well.
I found this hx35 map on a dsm forum. It may not be the real one, but it looks like it is. The dsm forum that I found it on also had REAL holset hx40 maps.
I mapped out a vq30 the other day and I'm not sure if I did it right... oh well.
#15
#16
No the internal WG flap is welded shut. Im running a Turbonetics Deltagate Evolution WG. The actuator actually came with the turbo, but I threw it away last week.
#17
That is a huge turbo lol. Can't wait to see what numbers you're hitting when you bump the boost up, intercool, and tune.
Are you going to do some tidying up back there? turbo/filter protection and oil line connectors other than zip ties would be a plus.
Are you going to do some tidying up back there? turbo/filter protection and oil line connectors other than zip ties would be a plus.
#18
I dont see anything wrong with using zipties to hold up the feed line, lol. not like they're holding weight, they're just there to keep the line from dangling.
#20
actually, streetz gets drone, but thats cus he's auto so long gears FTL (in that sense, cus the turbo sure works better with the auto), but thats only when he opens the cutout which is directly infront of the turbine outlet. With it closed and it going through the muffler, you dont even hear it.. Quieter than stock.
Mine surprisingly with no muffler, just that "downpipe/ tailpipe", I get no drone/ resonance at all. My exh setup concists of ebay hotshot knock off headers on a custom equal-length ypipe, WSP straight pipe, WSP Resonated Bpipe, the T3 turbine housing of the turbo, and then that 3" downpipe/ tailpipe
Mine surprisingly with no muffler, just that "downpipe/ tailpipe", I get no drone/ resonance at all. My exh setup concists of ebay hotshot knock off headers on a custom equal-length ypipe, WSP straight pipe, WSP Resonated Bpipe, the T3 turbine housing of the turbo, and then that 3" downpipe/ tailpipe
#21
Very nice cant wait for the big numbers. You florida guys are making it hard to be the first to do anything anymore. I guess I'll have to shoot for the first 3.5 swapped turbo auto 4th gen.
#22
#24
#25
PDR HX35 ??
Since we're having turbo fever today, has anyone heard of or used the PDR version of the HX35?
" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.
The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).
The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown."
It sounds good, but ????
Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...
" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.
The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).
The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown."
It sounds good, but ????
Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...
#26
Since we're having turbo fever today, has anyone heard of or used the PDR version of the HX35?
" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.
The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).
The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown."
It sounds good, but ????
Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...
" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.
The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).
The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown."
It sounds good, but ????
Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...
Turbo is that way to go
#27
hint: im currently looking for a motor (3.0 or 3.5 )
#28
Since we're having turbo fever today, has anyone heard of or used the PDR version of the HX35?
" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.
The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).
The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown."
It sounds good, but ????
Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...
" The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp.
The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. This turbo will require you to reuse the exhaust housing and will work perfectly with your factory exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows the PDR turbo to use turbo mounted exhaust brakes as well).
The improved air flow from this modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown."
It sounds good, but ????
Congrats to the Florida Tailpipe Turbo gang - very impressive work - it almost makes me want to ditch nitrous and turbo instead - almost...
Basically, lets face it- nitrous people are cheap and lazy But so are turbo people! :-D. They buy a kit, bolt it up, easy 200whp or w/e. Now, turbo technically speaking, although more expensive than a nitrous kit, requires just as much maintenance, also has ubber power gains, w/o having to constantly refill bottles. Just like a nitrous kit, if you want more power (instead of changing jets), you turn up the boost (assuming all else is good to support that boost of course). And unlike nitrous that you shouldnt use for more than a few seconds at a time in fear of melting valves, boost you can do it all you want as long as the intercooler and cooling system are up to par.
So really what Im saying here is.... you should boost that beast of yours
#29
Now you see Harold..., turbo is quite similar in a way to your nitrous juice. Only that with boost, you dont need to refill the turbo for it to spool .
Basically, lets face it- nitrous people are cheap and lazy But so are turbo people! :-D. They buy a kit, bolt it up, easy 200whp or w/e. Now, turbo technically speaking, although more expensive than a nitrous kit, requires just as much maintenance, also has ubber power gains, w/o having to constantly refill bottles. Just like a nitrous kit, if you want more power (instead of changing jets), you turn up the boost (assuming all else is good to support that boost of course). And unlike nitrous that you shouldnt use for more than a few seconds at a time in fear of melting valves, boost you can do it all you want as long as the intercooler and cooling system are up to par.
So really what Im saying here is.... you should boost that beast of yours
Basically, lets face it- nitrous people are cheap and lazy But so are turbo people! :-D. They buy a kit, bolt it up, easy 200whp or w/e. Now, turbo technically speaking, although more expensive than a nitrous kit, requires just as much maintenance, also has ubber power gains, w/o having to constantly refill bottles. Just like a nitrous kit, if you want more power (instead of changing jets), you turn up the boost (assuming all else is good to support that boost of course). And unlike nitrous that you shouldnt use for more than a few seconds at a time in fear of melting valves, boost you can do it all you want as long as the intercooler and cooling system are up to par.
So really what Im saying here is.... you should boost that beast of yours
The 3.5 project is basically starting over for me, and I hate the idea of chopping up exhaust systems and mounting a huge self-heating oven under the hood that requires constant work and attention. I'm married - I already gotta do that. But the tailpipe turbo ........
#30
Well, yeah, I am lazy, but not cheap... easy, but not cheap. Now with nitrous, you don't have all the overhead and maintenance that you have with a turbo. Wanna go fast? fill a bottle.. when it's over, it's over. I keep street racing to a minimum, and have never had the '99 over 110 mph. Not sure if I could, either, at least with the 3.0
The 3.5 project is basically starting over for me, and I hate the idea of chopping up exhaust systems and mounting a huge self-heating oven under the hood that requires constant work and attention. I'm married - I already gotta do that. But the tailpipe turbo ........
The 3.5 project is basically starting over for me, and I hate the idea of chopping up exhaust systems and mounting a huge self-heating oven under the hood that requires constant work and attention. I'm married - I already gotta do that. But the tailpipe turbo ........
#31
And as far as servicing required by turbo setups, really BOVs and WGs going bad isnt common as long as they are name brand. Turbos THEMSELVES could need rebuilding from time to time, but I think thats strongly influenced by driver inputs such as if the driver allows for cool-off time after driving around before shutting off the car, if he parks the car and walks away right after boosting, if he uses regular oil that breaks down pretty rapidly the moment it hits the hot turbo, if the restrictor is too big and allows for insane amounts of oil to go into the turbo and thus blowing the seals and end up with oil in the turbine and compressor, etc... At least a Holset, being made for a diesel motor, and being made of basically cast iron (whole turbo, not just turbine, thats why my turbo weights ~29lbs) is SUPPOSED to last ~200k miles before needing any servicing.
#32
do not forget playing hide and seek with boost, exhaust, vac and oil leaks, oh then there's is the tuning, the startup and idle issues. with nitrous it's on or off you have a nitrous car or n/a car. there's time's I do not spray for a month or more so I can basicly treat the car as if it was n/a but with a turbo it's always turbo. each has it's pro's and con's long as your pleased and having fun is what matters
#33
do not forget playing hide and seek with boost, exhaust, vac and oil leaks, oh then there's is the tuning, the startup and idle issues. with nitrous it's on or off you have a nitrous car or n/a car. there's time's I do not spray for a month or more so I can basicly treat the car as if it was n/a but with a turbo it's always turbo. each has it's pro's and con's long as your pleased and having fun is what matters
Only thing Im noticing is that my fuel goes out faster (but thats due to my heavy foot in this new-to-turbo learning stage), and that when I go WOT Im unleashin a beast... cant wait to turn up the boost to get that turbo into a more efficient range... omg omg omg.
#34
I def agree with your last sentence there. But I must say, my car being turbo, as long as i drive it normal, the turbo wont spool unless I put a load on it (AKA go for a hard acceleration). The rest of the time its just there not spolling. Yea I have bigger injectors but they're tuned for mid 14s a/f for closed loop (my o2s are unhooked), I have the same dang oil leaks I had before. the feedline/retun line/ oil pump/ sandwich plate are not leaking, and the starting "issues" are no different than the ones I've had ever since the IACV went bad back when I still rocked the 3.0, lol. So really its no different FOR ME, lol.
Only thing Im noticing is that my fuel goes out faster (but thats due to my heavy foot in this new-to-turbo learning stage), and that when I go WOT Im unleashin a beast... cant wait to turn up the boost to get that turbo into a more efficient range... omg omg omg.
Only thing Im noticing is that my fuel goes out faster (but thats due to my heavy foot in this new-to-turbo learning stage), and that when I go WOT Im unleashin a beast... cant wait to turn up the boost to get that turbo into a more efficient range... omg omg omg.
#36
Anyways, back on subject.... Tomorrow morning.... FMIC!!!!!!! :-O!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lol, lets see if I get up early enough to try it out. If not its going to have to wait a bit longer. Really I just need more clamps and POSSIBLY need more hoses- I mean couplers, lol. But I wont turn up the boost to 6psi til I get a chance to go for a drive with streetz to keep an eye on the a/f and tune accodingly.
Lol, lets see if I get up early enough to try it out. If not its going to have to wait a bit longer. Really I just need more clamps and POSSIBLY need more hoses- I mean couplers, lol. But I wont turn up the boost to 6psi til I get a chance to go for a drive with streetz to keep an eye on the a/f and tune accodingly.
#37
Anyways, back on subject.... Tomorrow morning.... FMIC!!!!!!! :-O!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lol, lets see if I get up early enough to try it out. If not its going to have to wait a bit longer. Really I just need more clamps and POSSIBLY need more hoses- I mean couplers, lol. But I wont turn up the boost to 6psi til I get a chance to go for a drive with streetz to keep an eye on the a/f and tune accodingly.
Lol, lets see if I get up early enough to try it out. If not its going to have to wait a bit longer. Really I just need more clamps and POSSIBLY need more hoses- I mean couplers, lol. But I wont turn up the boost to 6psi til I get a chance to go for a drive with streetz to keep an eye on the a/f and tune accodingly.
question does your wideband data log
#38
IC is on, but the ends are capped. No time to do the piping for it, I gotta be at work in < 1 hr. But its in there sitting nice and clean .
t6378tp, Im not turning up the boost until the IC is done AND I have streetz with me in the car to keep an eye on the A/F as I drive. And yes it does, but the way it comes it only logs a/f based on seconds. I'd need an RPM signal caca thing to log RPM... maybe down the line I'll do that.
t6378tp, Im not turning up the boost until the IC is done AND I have streetz with me in the car to keep an eye on the A/F as I drive. And yes it does, but the way it comes it only logs a/f based on seconds. I'd need an RPM signal caca thing to log RPM... maybe down the line I'll do that.