myiqis180

I took my car to the dealer for an oil change and realized they suggest an oil change every 3500 miles. I know there was a thread before discussing how the oil is still good for as long as 5k miles. I was wondering, as the car gets older (I have 106,000 miles) should the oil be changed more regulary?.

I normally change it every 4,000. should I stick with 3.5k or bump it up to 5k, etc.

99 SE-L

Regular non synthethic oil is reccomended every 3k miles if you synthetic its 5 k but i would do 4.5 k miles for synthethic also read the FAQ'S

Maximus_95

iTrader: (8)

well if you have a heavy foot, and race occasionaly, than i would do every 3k. but if you drive normal, and not all crazy, 4k is ok. but use super syn. i still do it every 3k just to keep things well lubricated.

Deagle

iTrader: (1)

Unless you're using synthetic it is said that 3k is the norm. Synthetic on the other hand, can be good up to 5k miles if you want to go for that long. Since your car is up in the 100k's I'd change it at or around 3k.

dennisadhs

I heard you can go as long as 8,000 miles on synthetic oil.. sorry forgot the link where i read it.

maxfun

Remember folks that it's not that the oil is good or bad it's the fact that there are contaminates in the oil. there are lots of claims that the oil is good for 5K plus miles but that just means the oil will not break down within that time...the fact is that the oil still carries contaminates which is the real problem. as for me, I love my max so she gets an oil change every 3K miles.

2DMax

iTrader: (2)

Read your owners manual, normal driving conditions, 7500 miles on regular oil. 3000 miles for heavy driving.

I use regular oil, and change it every 5000 miles. It makes it easier to remember when to change the oil. I also have about 87,000 miles on the car at this point.

maxfun

...one more thing, I hope you all are using factory oil filters (you know, the ones designed specifically for our engines) because the ones like fram and purolator are junk. They are made to fit a general classification of engines.

Igobuk

iTrader: (1)

I use the Purolator PureOne version with the anti-drain back valve. Something the factory oil filter doesn't offer.

maxfun

I am not familiar with it, it does sound like a good idea though. My comment was refering to those who think all filters are created equal and just try to save a buck on junk. I may look into that pure one thing and take one apart...make sure it's not on the same level as an electric supercharger.

myiqis180

I read a bunch of reports form people who took their oils to the lab and said that changing it every 3k miles is a waste of money, but I am sure you can make an argument for either case.

The oil change is only $30, and changing it every 3K or 5K may save you $30 in one year, so the money is not really the issue. I guess it's just a matter of inconvinience.

I drive relatively 'softly', and I always get the oil change at the dealer, so at least they should get the filter right. I asked to guy for synthetic oil and I guess it would cost like $100 for the oil change and he said that if I didn't use synthetic from the beggining it won't do me much good now. I guess I'll keep doing the regular thing.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Just look at the oil analysis spreadsheet at the top of this forum. It's the best info available. 4-5k on regular oil is fine even in stop and go rush hour traffic. Mobil 1 SuperSyn and Amsoil can be used upwards of 10-20k with filter changes using good filters. Mobil 1 and K&N filters are the best. Both are made by Champion Labs and both provide bypass valves and good psi. Nissan and Purolator PureOne filters are great paper element filters.

For all your oil questions go to bobistheoilguy.com. It's the largest oil related forum available.

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

I've been using Fram filters on my civic for over 200k miles now. They might be junk but they haven't given me any problems.

Love_00_Max

My formula is change filter every 6K miles and oil every 3K miles.... Works for me.

schmatt

If you really want to know how long you can go on your oil, get it analyzed! It is the only way to know for sure if you really can go longer intervals on the same oil. It can also catch major mechanical issues before your calling for a tow truck.

About the filters, yes the OEM 9E0000 filter is a very good filter, but there are just as good or better filters out there. The Puralator PureOne is probably one of the better ones you can buy.

myiqis180

I guess at some point we start to split hairs. I figure there are tons of ways to go about it, but I guess one can only play it save and go with OEM filter and oil change every 4000 miles. I supposed that for those who religiously believe in changing it every 3,500 miles, an extra 500 miles can't really be so bad (specially with moderate driving).

On another note, For those of you who don't drive as often: Do you change the oild at the 4-5 months interval even if you have only driven a couple of thausand miles?

NIKV69

I am sorry but there is no way on God's green earth you can go 5000 miles on regular oil. Whether you drive highway, stop and go or whatever. I change my oil the first of every month myself and that oil is still black when it comes out. My driving is not that intense either. I would say you are doing your car wrong if you go over 3000 with regular oil and over 5000 with synthetic. As for Filters Fram and the rest are JUNK. Pay the $10 bucks and get the Mobil 1 105 or the Nissan 9E000. Your car will love you for it.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

The color of your oil has nothing whatsoever to do with it's integrity. Please educate yourself before making comments. The oil analysis spreadsheet on here and on bobistheoilguy show without a doubt that 5k oil changes with regular motor oil should replace Jiffy Lubes 3k myth. Don't waste your hard earned money.

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

When oil turns black, it just mean that oil is doing its job.

NIKV69

That may be true but take some oil between your fingers and feel it and then do the same with fresh oil. Big difference. $15 a month is a cheap price to pay to extend the life of engine.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Dude, oil analysis doesn't lie. It breaks down almost every component in the oil. Amsoil has had their long drain intervals since 1971 and they have never lost a lawsuit. Just take time before posting. Jiffy Lube has brainwashed everyone. The dark oil means nothing. Rubbing the oil between your fingers means nothing unless you find chunks. I have used extended drain intervals for about 10 years. I had a 1994 Honda Civic. I used Amsoil 0w-30 and used 20-25k oil change intervals with 2-3 filter changes. I sold the car to a Honda mechanic. I informed him of the long drain intervals. He said that he wanted to tear the engine down to check for damage. He not only bought the car, but switched to Amsoil. The car had 250k on it and the internals looked brand spankin new.

Since your so happy with $15 a month you'll be happy to find out that extended drain intervals can save you even more. Time is money.

NIKV69

20K? I would not advise that to anyone, Jiffy Lube is not the only people that advise 3000k change intervals. I would rather change mine regularly. My boss let his Jeep go 12K before changing his oil and it came out like tar. Your telling there is no damage to that engine? Even a little? Hmmm..

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely no damage whatsoever! Of course the people at oil change places and your local mechanic will tell you 3k. They aren't experts on oil and they want your business every 3 months. If you don't go back, they lose money. I have 46k on my 2k2 Maxima with 10k change intervals. I've used long drain intervals for years as have most of the people I've managed to convince. I changed my 2k1 Durango once a year with 1 filter change at the 6 month mark. Blackstone said I could have gone longer. 12k on regular oil is rediculous. 12k on synthetic "without a filter" change is very bad as well. With a bypass filter truckers can get 100k, 200k or more out of 1 oil change! You send your oil in to Blackstone labs and they will tell you exactly what is in your oil and give you a recommendation of when to change it. Once again, read the Oil Analysis spreadsheet here and the one available on bobistheoilguy.com. Trust me, Bill here and the people on bobistheoilguys forum definately know oil.

NIKV69

I will check out that website and check back later.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

After reading my posts, I think I sounded harsh on you. It really wasn't my intent and I apologize if you took it that way. I think most peoples goal here is to help everyone. I've learned so much here on the org from people that really know their stuff.

NIKV69

Don't worry Virus, be honest in your posts. Say what is on your mind. I don't offend easily and your opinion is what makes this forum great. If you feel passionate about it more the better, I haven't checked that site yet. I will later, I am doing the first oil change today and I will have pics and a report of it.

johnny2kgle

NIKV69,

Virus is correct about used oil analysis. The best solution for you to determine which is the best oil and filter combo for your Maxima is to get the Blackstone Labs Total Baseline Analysis with Dyson Commentary for $35.00. Terry Dyson's commentary is much more in depth than the Blackstone small blurb.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/terry.html

Based on Bill's spreadsheet, Amsoil tends to perform well in the Maxima. Mobil 1 is okay but is thinner and the additive package leave much to be desired for extended drains.

I hope this helpsl

NIKV69

I actually read a very intresting article in Car & Driver, don't remember what month it was. The man who wrote this article raised great points about the intervals. One thing you have to remember that when the Manual says 7500 miles they mean very easy conditions. Then Nissan says 3750 for severe conditions. Whiich are some of the following.

1. Driving the car without warming it up properly.
2. Stop and Go
3. Constant Idling
4. Dusty conditions.
5.Short trips on a cold engine (running to the store)

Not to mention how many times we leave rubber at a light or do some other "fun" driving. He mentions that failure to change oil every 3500 miles under these conditions could cause to sludge to build up as well. He also noted the recent problems with Toyota and VW. Sludge is caused simply by not warming your engine properly and not changing your oil enough. If you are using mineral oil and driving under severe conditions you need to change your oil every 3500 miles. I believe this and this sludge thing is reason more that I change my oil the 1st of every month. Seeing I do a lot of driving under all sorts of conditions.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, when writing an article like this, you have to generalize your recommendations rather than talking about any specific car. Toyotas problem was not an oil related problem, but a design flaw in their engine. Even with a good synthetic oil, you could only go about 5k in the Toyota/Lexus before foaming and sludging. I am not aware of any other engine that does this and Toyota fixed the problem pretty quickly.

myiqis180

Sorry for the Off-topic question: Can any one explan a little more about slodgin?

thanks.

NIKV69

I got the issue today, Car and Driver, December 2004. Page 13. Article by Csaba Csere.

To answer myiqis180..

Oil Sludge is a thickening of the engine oil until it reaches a jelly like consistency. When your crankcase accumulates sludge it finds its way into passages that are supposed to be bringing pressurized oil to bearings and other parts in need of fresh oil. Since these passages are small the oil flow can become restricted. Thus components such as lifters can wear and start operating erratically long before they are supposed to.

Recently VW had a problem with this as did Chysler and Toyota.

Now I disagree with Virus when he says this is a design flaw. Toyota did some research on this problem with their affected cars and it turns out many of them were cars with 30,000 miles that had just come off lease. Some of them still had the original oil filter on it! So many of these leases were lax on the upkeep. Others changed their oil but at 7500 intervals, like I said in an earlier reply this is simply not enough under the conditions we drive in. Like heavy traffic and idling a lot. These cars should have their oil changed no more than every 4000 miles.

Now the reasons Sludge develops..

1. Water getting into the crankcase through condensation and blowby. This could be rectifed by driving on the freeway, BUT many short trips with out the oil reaching normal tempature makes the problem worse.

2.Oil gets too hot. Over 250 degrees F Mineral oil oxidizes and produces acidic byproducts. If it gets hotter, say 300 your oil will be more like tar!

3.Passage of time. Contaminants such as soot get by the rings and end up in the oil. Oil contains additives to neutralize these contaminants but eventually too much of it builds up to comprimise the oils ability to do it's job. Manufacturers do testing to determine the oils abilty to hold up and give you certain intervals under your driving conditions accordingly to change your oil and therein lies the problem with sludge.

This is why I change my oil often. I drive every possible severe condition. Stop and Go, heavy traffic which leads to constant ldling. Hot and cold weather and not to mention my yearly drive to and from Nevada in which I make stops at the Grand Canyon and Rushmore and Badlands. In winter that is brutal!

Hope this helps.

myiqis180

Thanks a lot.

So, my conclusion to all this discussions, based on my driving:

I'll change my oil every 4,000 miles.

NIKV69

Good choice, I would go no more than 3000 myself but I am a fanatic when it comes to this and I am probably going to have my car for at least 5-7 years if not more and I need my car to be in tip top shape since every December 26th I head west on Interstate 78 and drive 2500 miles in 3 days to get to Nevada.

"How lucky can one guy be?"

myiqis180

hahahah, if you want to know how lucky can one guy be, listen to that song by Ray Charles "about the Black Jack Game..." hahah good song.

Yeah, my car is a 97, I think I keep it for at least 2 more years. maybe more, who knows?

NIKV69

Changing your oil frequently and actually keeping up on all the other fluids such as tranny fluid etc is the easiest way to have your car around for many years!