Engine Restore etc...
12-28-2004, 08:20 PM
#1
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Engine Restore etc...
Anyone ever tried Engine RESTORE or Lucas Oil treatment to increase power, for higher cylinder compression, and gas mileage? What do you think about it? Is it Bull****?
01-05-2005, 07:54 AM
#8
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Originally Posted by a_prince1
Stay away from engine oil additives. If you MUST use something go ahead with the Lucas. Restore is a waste of money and bad for the engine oil passage ways.
Please do not use Lucas...that crap will cause engine oil to thicken and foam!
Go with Lube Control for oil and Fuel Power for gas/diesel www.lubecontrol.com .
Read up at the forums on www.bobistheoilguy.com (run a search)
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...?ubb=forum;f=1
01-05-2005, 08:31 AM
#9
All of that stuff is nasty to me. If your motor is running good, dont waste your money on oil additives that promise you the stars. If your motor is in good working condition and you've changed the oil at its intervals, additives wont do anything.
01-05-2005, 06:18 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
All of that stuff is nasty to me. If your motor is running good, dont waste your money on oil additives that promise you the stars. If your motor is in good working condition and you've changed the oil at its intervals, additives wont do anything.
Read up and learn about LC and FP....they will help. Oils oxidize and create carbon and varnish. LC controls oxidation and therefore prevents carbon and varish. FP improves any fuel gas or diesel.
01-06-2005, 02:34 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Free
Read up and learn about LC and FP....they will help. Oils oxidize and create carbon and varnish. LC controls oxidation and therefore prevents carbon and varish. FP improves any fuel gas or diesel.
). If you use good quality oil and change it at its regular intervals, your engine will show very slow build up of varnish and carbon inside. Just run some flush/Seafoam inside to clean it all up every 15k-20k miles. It doesn't matter what additive you use, you will never fully prevent that build up. You can only slow it down. So instead of buying these additives everytime you change the oil, it's more economically logical to clean out the engine with flush every 20k miles than to buy stuff that doesn't completly prevent it anyways.I just dont see the point in someone putting all these nasty aditives to "prevent" gunking in their engines, yet they never cleaned out the gunk to begin with. It's like having an STD and THEN using contraceptives to not get STDs.
01-06-2005, 06:49 PM
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
Varnishing and carbon will build up on any motor, it's just part of wear and tear. But I'd much rather use things like Seafoam and motor flushes (diesel is a good motor flush ). If you use good quality oil and change it at its regular intervals, your engine will show very slow build up of varnish and carbon inside. Just run some flush/Seafoam inside to clean it all up every 15k-20k miles. It doesn't matter what additive you use, you will never fully prevent that build up. You can only slow it down. So instead of buying these additives everytime you change the oil, it's more economically logical to clean out the engine with flush every 20k miles than to buy stuff that doesn't completly prevent it anyways.
I just dont see the point in someone putting all these nasty aditives to "prevent" gunking in their engines, yet they never cleaned out the gunk to begin with. It's like having an STD and THEN using contraceptives to not get STDs.
). If you use good quality oil and change it at its regular intervals, your engine will show very slow build up of varnish and carbon inside. Just run some flush/Seafoam inside to clean it all up every 15k-20k miles. It doesn't matter what additive you use, you will never fully prevent that build up. You can only slow it down. So instead of buying these additives everytime you change the oil, it's more economically logical to clean out the engine with flush every 20k miles than to buy stuff that doesn't completly prevent it anyways.I just dont see the point in someone putting all these nasty aditives to "prevent" gunking in their engines, yet they never cleaned out the gunk to begin with. It's like having an STD and THEN using contraceptives to not get STDs.
I also don't agree that all engines are destined to descend into dirtiness. If you overextend cheap dino oil and don't monitor things, maybe, but certainly not in all cases. For one example, I drove a 1988 Civic from when I bought it new, to over 150k miles in just over 10 years, using Mobil-1 constantly after break-in. When I last viewed the valve train and top of the head (days before I sold it), they were spotless, silvery bare metal that were as clean as the day the car rolled out of the factory. A few years earlier, I ruined the oil pan by accidentally over-torquing the plug and breaking the threads. When the pan came off, it and all you could see of the engine were the same: silvery bare metal that looked new (after 7-8 years of hard, hot climate service).
If you use the right stuff and use it correctly, your engine can and will stay clean forever.
01-07-2005, 05:44 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Torkaholic
I've got two problems with this. First, LC and FP are "nasty additives" but Seafoam isn't???? Second, do you have any lab data to back up your assertions? I have reviewed a large number of used oil lab analysis results, and the FP and LC combo mentioned previously shows a clear, objectively provable reduction in insolubles. This is a clear indicator that these additives (LC alone, as it's an oil additive, would probably give you most of this improvement) do in fact result in a cleaner engine. Sure, some additives are worthless, but that does not mean that all are or that all should be characterized as such.
I also don't agree that all engines are destined to descend into dirtiness. If you overextend cheap dino oil and don't monitor things, maybe, but certainly not in all cases. For one example, I drove a 1988 Civic from when I bought it new, to over 150k miles in just over 10 years, using Mobil-1 constantly after break-in. When I last viewed the valve train and top of the head (days before I sold it), they were spotless, silvery bare metal that were as clean as the day the car rolled out of the factory. A few years earlier, I ruined the oil pan by accidentally over-torquing the plug and breaking the threads. When the pan came off, it and all you could see of the engine were the same: silvery bare metal that looked new (after 7-8 years of hard, hot climate service).
If you use the right stuff and use it correctly, your engine can and will stay clean forever.
I also don't agree that all engines are destined to descend into dirtiness. If you overextend cheap dino oil and don't monitor things, maybe, but certainly not in all cases. For one example, I drove a 1988 Civic from when I bought it new, to over 150k miles in just over 10 years, using Mobil-1 constantly after break-in. When I last viewed the valve train and top of the head (days before I sold it), they were spotless, silvery bare metal that were as clean as the day the car rolled out of the factory. A few years earlier, I ruined the oil pan by accidentally over-torquing the plug and breaking the threads. When the pan came off, it and all you could see of the engine were the same: silvery bare metal that looked new (after 7-8 years of hard, hot climate service).
If you use the right stuff and use it correctly, your engine can and will stay clean forever.
.Reason I dont think of Seafoam as an additive because I concider additives things you run with the oil for as long as that oil is there (say like "Smoke Away" or Lucas), where as Seafoam is just left in the oil for a limited amount of time to clean it up then you have to change the oil. So because of this, I think of Seafoam more like a flush. 
01-07-2005, 07:00 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 210
I suppose you can make a valid distinction between leave-ins and flush-type additives. But I think the crucial thing is to try to pick out which ones work and which don't (or can't be proven to work). As I said in my previous post LC (Lube Control) is a leave-in additive that you can see has a positive effect from used oil analysis results. Thus, it does not deserve to be lumped with the snake oils. Beyond that, the makers of LC don't make inflated silly claims about it either. None of these products, and not oils either, are miracle juices. If used properly under the correct circumstances, some of them do provide worthwhile benefits.
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