LeftySteve

I've lurked on this web page for years, since my wife got her '02 Max, and finally have a reason to post ! In any case, her car is at 45k and needed the tranny flushed (color of the fluid was dark red-brown). I did the tranny fluid flush as detailed in the Maintenance section, everything went wonderful until I was putting the pan back on. Then I did it, I overtorqued one of the bolts and popped the head off the bolt ! I can't repeat what came out of my mouth at that point or I'll be going to he!! a second time...

Meanwhile, the stud is now stuck in the block. Luckily, it is on the front of the pan and the tranny pan isn't leaking through the hole (yet). Due to it's location, I can see the tip of the bolt peeking up through the block if I stand in front of the car looking down the front of the block.

So, anyone have an idea how I can get what is left of the bolt out of the block so I can replace it ? Isn't there a device made for backing out bolts that have had their heads stripped/popped off ?

Steve

Mods: Sorry if this post isn't in the right section, please move it if not..

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

The standard procedure is to drill as large a hole as possible in the center of the bolt, and then use a screw extractor to remove what's left of the bolt. I recommend the bolt extractors that Sears sells: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952315000

These work a lot better than Easy-Outs, which tend to break too easily.

The hard part is drilling a hole as close to the center of the bolt as possible, since the drill bit tends to wander on the rough broken surface. You can use a punch to make an indentation, then use a small bit to get started, then use a larger bit once you have a good starter hole.

But if it's not leaking, you might as well just leave it alone.

imported_Max_TL

ls, sorry to hear 'bout your delema, BTW, i'm still looking for the pan bolt torque - how much was too much - did you have a t-wrench. And did you replace the bolts w/new ones?

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Torque is only about 5-7 ft-lbs, IIRC.

schmatt

Yes, most people buy torque wrenches that only go down to 10 ft-lbs. Yes, I screwed something like that up before. The FSM lists torque in ft-lbs, in-lbs, and in-oz depending on where you look. You have to be very careful when reading the diagrams. Although, there should be some common sense involved. The size of the bolt will determine the approximate torque to be applied. The larger the bolt, the larger the torque.

LeftySteve

The torque is a lot less than you would think. I believe Stephen Max is pretty close, if not right on... Knowing what I know now, DON'T go over 10 lbs ! I managed to pop that head off using a standard 8" ratchet, and I was not really cranking down on it, either. Boy, was I pi$$ed when that happened.

No, I didn't replace the bolts, either. I simply cleaned them off and put them back in. There was plenty of friction between the bolt and the block when reinstalling them to believe they won't back out.

If there is any good that came out of this, it is the fact that the bolt is right in the middle of the leading edge of the transmission pan. So I assume the bolts on either side are holding the pan acceptably tight to keep it from leaking.

Based upon what Stephen Max said, I'm halfway tempted to leave that broken stud in there until the next time I need to drop the pan (if ever).

Oh, and finally, the difference in smoothness is amazing ! Wow, what a simply tranny fluid change will do to the car.

Thanks for all the help ! Steve

imported_Max_TL

steve, thx for your reply, i was going to re-use the bolts also. btw - what fluid did u use? i'm probably going to use amsoil atf, as soon as this damn f#%* cold is over.

schmatt

If you are going to reuse the bolts, at least clean them off and put some sealant on them. The torque used on these bolts is pretty low. This sealant will help stop them from backing out. Even though it is a small probability, the cost of new bolts, or some sealant for the old ones is small compared to fixing a leak and potentially a blown tranny from low fluid level.

The majority of people don't even check their engine oil, much less their transmission oil regularly.

LeftySteve

Used good ole' Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic ATF. I was turned on to it by reading all the positive posts here. Unfortunately, it is about as easy to find as hens teeth around here. Ended up calling a number of stores before finding any in stock, and then had to visit a couple to get enough for the flush ! I noticed a BIG difference in price between Nissan, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 ATFs. For your reference:

Nissan (Think it is called "Matic-D") - $7.89/qt (still in shock)
Amsoil Synthetic - $7.50/qt
Mobil 1 Synthetic - $5.99/qt

I hear what Schmatt is saying. Getting a bottle of loctite will probably be cheaper than replacing all the bolts. At the very least, make sure that you clean all the old ATF off those bolts if you reuse them !

Steve