2005/General Newbie Q's
02-05-2005, 07:18 PM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 41
Newbie questions
Hi all, I just got my new 2005 Maxima 3.5SE automatic
some basic questions,
after the first oil change I should start to use mobil1 5w30 right away right?? or only after 10,000km? What oil filter should I use? the mobil1 filter?
when should I change the ATF on this thing and what should I use? Mobil1 or Amsoil? do they meet Nissan's req?
Is adding a K&N filter to this thing a good idea?
anythign else I should know?
very nice car, but I should have paid the extra money and gotten the AWD G35 (RWD is a disaster in the snow), this Maxima is nice but the FWD makes it turn like jumbo jet.
some basic questions,
after the first oil change I should start to use mobil1 5w30 right away right?? or only after 10,000km? What oil filter should I use? the mobil1 filter?
when should I change the ATF on this thing and what should I use? Mobil1 or Amsoil? do they meet Nissan's req?
Is adding a K&N filter to this thing a good idea?
anythign else I should know?
very nice car, but I should have paid the extra money and gotten the AWD G35 (RWD is a disaster in the snow), this Maxima is nice but the FWD makes it turn like jumbo jet.
wait till the 1200 mile break in before anything... is longer for the oil........
02-05-2005, 07:30 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 41
If you have ever had a good/half descent rear wheel drive car, you know how the turning radius is excellent. Where I could U-turn in my old 1993 MB 190E, I have to do a 3 point turn in the maxima. That is the only thing that is pissing me off about this car. Other then that its great.
The maxima is nice, VCD keeps me from spinning the wheels everywhere. It accelerates well,etc.
The maxima is nice, VCD keeps me from spinning the wheels everywhere. It accelerates well,etc.
02-05-2005, 07:44 PM
#5
i thought the wide turning radius is due to our wide wheel base? Nissan recommends not switching to syn for atleast 10k miles. many will even wait until 20k (like me). there is a fluids forum to give you more details, facts, and opinions. look around a bit and you will find out more than by posting threads. http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=70
02-05-2005, 07:54 PM
#6
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Posts: 41
I have driven MB E320s and Lexus GS430s, they turn better then the darn Maxima. The dealer told me it was because this car was FWD when I asked him.
I bought this thing because I am tight on cash atm, other then the turning radius, I like it.
ok so I will wait on going to synth oil.
Mobil1 is the best one right?
What about the ATF/K&N? (When should I change the ATF to Amsoil and will the stealership complain?)
Also about the rear spoiler on this thing, the one that comes with the 3,300$ cdn package that has the VCD,etc, is it just a small bump thing on the trunk or is it supposed to be a larger one?
I bought this thing because I am tight on cash atm, other then the turning radius, I like it.
ok so I will wait on going to synth oil.
Mobil1 is the best one right?
What about the ATF/K&N? (When should I change the ATF to Amsoil and will the stealership complain?)
Also about the rear spoiler on this thing, the one that comes with the 3,300$ cdn package that has the VCD,etc, is it just a small bump thing on the trunk or is it supposed to be a larger one?
02-05-2005, 08:48 PM
#8
Originally Posted by messerchmidt
Also guys, what grade of fuel does this thing use?
I filled up with octane 91 today.
Do I have to use OC91 or will 87 suffice?
are there any negative effects to use OC87?
I filled up with octane 91 today.
Do I have to use OC91 or will 87 suffice?
are there any negative effects to use OC87?
02-05-2005, 08:53 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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Originally Posted by messerchmidt
ok so I will wait on going to synth oil. Mobil1 is the best one right?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=227996
I agree that Mobil 1 is the best, but bill99 has some other recommendations you should read. He also tells you which filters to buy (and why) and which ones to stay away from.
Finally, all Maximas have the 3.5 V6 so it is redundant to put the 3.5 in the title for a new thread -- we all have that great VQ engine!
02-05-2005, 09:10 PM
#10
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Location: a meadow south of Atlanta
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The 5 speed tranny in the 6th gen Max is an anomoly. It requires NISSAN FLUID ONLY or the warranty on the tranny may be invalid. Nissan says the fluid required for this tranny is very special. At the price they charge ($10 a quart?), it must be . . .
Some folks may change their tranny fluid more often, but it is my opinion that changing more frequently than every 20K for normal driving is ****. I prefer around 30K. Longer if most miles are rural freeway or gentle driving. Shorter if most miles are urban.
Of course, if your dealer thinks the oil is losing its consistency, changing color, looks contaminated or smells burnt, etc, change right then.
As to octane, the Maxima will run fine on 87. But you will not get the peak performance the engine was designed for. If you are into peak performance, I would advise premium grade gas.
If you are an everyday driver with few performance requirements, I would recommend 89 octane. In twenty years of driving only Maximas, I have never had the heart to use regular gas. The exception would be if one is driving at higher altitudes, a lower octane should work fine.
CAVEAT: It takes the onboard computer several tankfuls of any particular octane to fully adjust to that grade, so, whatever you do, do not alternate grades or switch grades often. If I lived up north, I would not change more than twice a year (between hot and cold weather seasons). Living in the south, I stick to one grade all year long.
PLEASE don't make the mistake of switching to synthetic oil before 10K. 20K is even better.
Some folks may change their tranny fluid more often, but it is my opinion that changing more frequently than every 20K for normal driving is ****. I prefer around 30K. Longer if most miles are rural freeway or gentle driving. Shorter if most miles are urban.
Of course, if your dealer thinks the oil is losing its consistency, changing color, looks contaminated or smells burnt, etc, change right then.
As to octane, the Maxima will run fine on 87. But you will not get the peak performance the engine was designed for. If you are into peak performance, I would advise premium grade gas.
If you are an everyday driver with few performance requirements, I would recommend 89 octane. In twenty years of driving only Maximas, I have never had the heart to use regular gas. The exception would be if one is driving at higher altitudes, a lower octane should work fine.
CAVEAT: It takes the onboard computer several tankfuls of any particular octane to fully adjust to that grade, so, whatever you do, do not alternate grades or switch grades often. If I lived up north, I would not change more than twice a year (between hot and cold weather seasons). Living in the south, I stick to one grade all year long.
PLEASE don't make the mistake of switching to synthetic oil before 10K. 20K is even better.
02-05-2005, 10:01 PM
#12
Originally Posted by messerchmidt
I have driven MB E320s and Lexus GS430s, they turn better then the darn Maxima. The dealer told me it was because this car was FWD when I asked him.
1. The car is wider and the wheelbase is longer.
2. A change was made to the steering mechanism.
3. The tires are bigger.
All of these things seem like perfectly valid reasons but I don't like the fact that I get nervous about hitting a curb every time I make a U-Turn using anything less than three lanes.
02-05-2005, 11:25 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bay Shore, NY
Posts: 819
Amsoil makes a good synthetic oil so check into it. As for the oil filter there is only one. Mobil 1. Use the 101 and NOT the 108! 
I would change the tranny fluid every 20K. Yes, $10 a quart is highway robbery!
Check out this site for an air filter.
www.airaid.com
I would change the tranny fluid every 20K. Yes, $10 a quart is highway robbery!
Check out this site for an air filter.
www.airaid.com
02-05-2005, 11:31 PM
#14
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
Originally Posted by lightonthehill
As to octane, the Maxima will run fine on 87. But you will not get the peak performance the engine was designed for. If you are into peak performance, I would advise premium grade gas.
If you are an everyday driver with few performance requirements, I would recommend 89 octane. In twenty years of driving only Maximas, I have never had the heart to use regular gas. The exception would be if one is driving at higher altitudes, a lower octane should work fine.
CAVEAT: It takes the onboard computer several tankfuls of any particular octane to fully adjust to that grade, so, whatever you do, do not alternate grades or switch grades often. If I lived up north, I would not change more than twice a year (between hot and cold weather seasons). Living in the south, I stick to one grade all year long.
If you are an everyday driver with few performance requirements, I would recommend 89 octane. In twenty years of driving only Maximas, I have never had the heart to use regular gas. The exception would be if one is driving at higher altitudes, a lower octane should work fine.
CAVEAT: It takes the onboard computer several tankfuls of any particular octane to fully adjust to that grade, so, whatever you do, do not alternate grades or switch grades often. If I lived up north, I would not change more than twice a year (between hot and cold weather seasons). Living in the south, I stick to one grade all year long.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....0&page=1&pp=30
Bottom line on octane -- Max will run fine on 87 octane. Use 91 or higher if you plan to be racing -- it will get you a little more. For normal driving you only need 87. Here in Colorado I consistently burn 85 octane. I can't lug the engine when going up into the foothills -- but you don't want to do that anyhow.
02-05-2005, 11:37 PM
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 46
Nismo is right, in fact my mechanic (whom I've known for 20 years) says that you can safely drive the 30K miles on traditional oil before changing to synthetic. The primary reason is that you want some of the metals to work their way free, and also let the cams, etc get broken in before going synthetic. Don't do this right away. I'm guessing that down the road, dealers start to suggest that people switch to synthetics at their first 30K mile service interval.
02-06-2005, 06:29 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 131
Originally Posted by messerchmidt
Hi all, I just got my new 2005 Maxima 3.5SE automatic
some basic questions,
after the first oil change I should start to use mobil1 5w30 right away right?? or only after 10,000km? What oil filter should I use? the mobil1 filter?
when should I change the ATF on this thing and what should I use? Mobil1 or Amsoil? do they meet Nissan's req?
Is adding a K&N filter to this thing a good idea?
anythign else I should know?
very nice car, but I should have paid the extra money and gotten the AWD G35 (RWD is a disaster in the snow), this Maxima is nice but the FWD makes it turn like jumbo jet.
some basic questions,
after the first oil change I should start to use mobil1 5w30 right away right?? or only after 10,000km? What oil filter should I use? the mobil1 filter?
when should I change the ATF on this thing and what should I use? Mobil1 or Amsoil? do they meet Nissan's req?
Is adding a K&N filter to this thing a good idea?
anythign else I should know?
very nice car, but I should have paid the extra money and gotten the AWD G35 (RWD is a disaster in the snow), this Maxima is nice but the FWD makes it turn like jumbo jet.
Good luck, and enjoy your new max!
02-06-2005, 07:51 AM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15
Theres nothing wrong with using synthetic right away. Alot of good cars come with synth from the factory (eg the corvette). In some people's opinion you should even dump the factory oil right away and put in better oil (during the manufacturing process metal particles are left floating around and draining the oil would get rid of those).
02-06-2005, 08:48 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: a meadow south of Atlanta
Posts: 8,143
Slink - Synthetic may be in the Corvette from day one, but Nissan factory technicians recommend dino oil in the Maxima for the first 20k, and give very good reasons why.
As for synthetic being a 'better' oil, that is the problem with using it early on. It is so good it prevents normal adjustment and breakin of engine parts.
As for a 'lot of cars coming from the factory with synthetic', I would bet it is less than 5% of all vehicles; possibly much fewer than that.
Far too many folks are taken in by the manufacturers of synthetic oil blatantly advertising that it is great to use their oil from the start. Think about this. Who has an agenda here? Does Nissan profit when you stick with dino the first 20K? No. Do the synthetic oil manufacturers profit when you switch to their oil at the start? Yes.
Using synthetic early should not harm your engine, other than preventing proper break-in. But a properly broken in engine should be a more efficient engine during its entire life. Switching to synthetic at a reasonable point could make that a very long life. 20K might be the ideal point. I would suggest at least 10K.
mattlerose - If I were you, I would feel it would be OK to switch back to dino at the next scheduled change and stick with it at least 10K, if not 20K.
As for synthetic being a 'better' oil, that is the problem with using it early on. It is so good it prevents normal adjustment and breakin of engine parts.
As for a 'lot of cars coming from the factory with synthetic', I would bet it is less than 5% of all vehicles; possibly much fewer than that.
Far too many folks are taken in by the manufacturers of synthetic oil blatantly advertising that it is great to use their oil from the start. Think about this. Who has an agenda here? Does Nissan profit when you stick with dino the first 20K? No. Do the synthetic oil manufacturers profit when you switch to their oil at the start? Yes.
Using synthetic early should not harm your engine, other than preventing proper break-in. But a properly broken in engine should be a more efficient engine during its entire life. Switching to synthetic at a reasonable point could make that a very long life. 20K might be the ideal point. I would suggest at least 10K.
mattlerose - If I were you, I would feel it would be OK to switch back to dino at the next scheduled change and stick with it at least 10K, if not 20K.
02-06-2005, 08:56 PM
#20
Originally Posted by lightonthehill
mattlerose - If I were you, I would feel it would be OK to switch back to dino at the next scheduled change and stick with it at least 10K, if not 20K.
02-07-2005, 08:51 AM
#22
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 880
BMW's have come from the factory with synthetic oil for years. And since BMW pays for all oil changes for the warranty period, they aren't doing it to make money. (Actually, since the synthetic extends the oil change interval, they probably come out about the same, costwise, as using conventional oil.)
As someone else has pointed out, the new 'Vettes come with synthetic, and my wife's Cadillac even came with synthetic oil. So it's becoming more common.
As for mixing syn and petroleum oils, I've always heard that's not good. In fact, when Mobil 1 first appeared, they advised flushing the old oil out of the crankcase and engine oil galleries before installing the Mobile 1. Since they're not the same chemically, they don't mix well. Newer "blended synthetics" have been formulated such that mixing is okay.
Mike
As someone else has pointed out, the new 'Vettes come with synthetic, and my wife's Cadillac even came with synthetic oil. So it's becoming more common.
As for mixing syn and petroleum oils, I've always heard that's not good. In fact, when Mobil 1 first appeared, they advised flushing the old oil out of the crankcase and engine oil galleries before installing the Mobile 1. Since they're not the same chemically, they don't mix well. Newer "blended synthetics" have been formulated such that mixing is okay.
Mike
02-07-2005, 05:13 PM
#23
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 106
messer,
i notice your in Canada too.
1) we can't get the mobil filters here, unless ordering online
i say go oem or napa (i'm using the silver 21356)
2) like others say - go with the 10 or 20K before switching to syn
3) we've got something the US bro's drool over. go to your local bulk Esso dealer
& get a XD3 0W30 for less than $4/l. it's a full synthetic, highly recomended by the
guys at BITOG and can use this one all year round.
i notice your in Canada too.
1) we can't get the mobil filters here, unless ordering online
i say go oem or napa (i'm using the silver 21356)
2) like others say - go with the 10 or 20K before switching to syn
3) we've got something the US bro's drool over. go to your local bulk Esso dealer
& get a XD3 0W30 for less than $4/l. it's a full synthetic, highly recomended by the
guys at BITOG and can use this one all year round.
02-08-2005, 12:09 AM
#24
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
Originally Posted by Max_TL
we've got something the US bro's drool over. go to your local bulk Esso dealer & get a XD3 0W30 for less than $4/l. it's a full synthetic, highly recomended by the guys at BITOG and can use this one all year round.
I certainly would not use a 0W30 weight motor oil (even synthetic) when Nissan calls for a 5W30 weight oil. That lighter weight might be appropriate for the middle of winter in Canada, but certainly not for summer driving.
02-08-2005, 06:37 AM
#25
Originally Posted by SilverMax_04
I certainly would not use a 0W30 weight motor oil (even synthetic) when Nissan calls for a 5W30 weight oil. That lighter weight might be appropriate for the middle of winter in Canada, but certainly not for summer driving.
02-08-2005, 08:10 AM
#26
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 106
??? some people still don't understand this multi-viscosity grading ???
in fact, the XD3 in it's 0W30 form is considered to be a 'thick' 30wt.
that is - within the 30's there is a range of values this measured is csi's.
i'm sure some of you org's are also on BITOG - care to help me elaborate?
in fact, the XD3 in it's 0W30 form is considered to be a 'thick' 30wt.
that is - within the 30's there is a range of values this measured is csi's.
i'm sure some of you org's are also on BITOG - care to help me elaborate?
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