how can you achieve a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water when Haynes and Motorvate say to use a garden hose to do the flush? You'll still have regular tap water in the mix.

 

I question how many radiator shops/dealerships use distilled water in Greater Vancouver given the soft water we have.

I suspect distilled water is insurance against hard water conditions in the prairies/midwest.

What can be distilled out of our water, other than a negligible amount of chlorine?



Have you phoned a stealership to see what they use?

 

Nope, haven't called the stealerships. I checked the owner's manual and it also says 50/50 coolant and distilled water. Since I'll be working on the supercharger Saturday I may as well open those plugs and drain the block.

 

Those who have done it (in the stickies) say it is easier to buy 7 or 8 gallons of distilled water and keep flushing with that until there is no color left in the water drained from the radiator. This is compared to opening the drains in the engine block. You should have to pay no more than about $1 a gallon for the distilled water if you get it on sale.

Soft water can be the result of sodium in the water (thats why they use salt in water softners). Stick to distilled water for the best results.

 

Our water source is primarily a result of the abundant rainfall that occurs on the Wet Coast starting fairly soon. I don't believe that sodium is an issue locally and doubt that our radiator shops use distilled water. IMHO it is a waste of money, as is bottled water here.

 

So Bob, hows the radiator on your RX-7? I'm assuming that you're just using tap water when you change the coolant on your RX-7.

 

I don't change radiator coolant, I get the professionals to do it.

I replaced the radiator 5 years ago on the RX7. I had it flushed once previously at a lube joint.

I didn't get the work history on the car, but I suspect the woman who owned it hadn't had the radiator flushed in years.

I took the Maxima to a radiator shop two years ago for a flush and I certainly didn't see the guy using distilled water. This took place before I joined the .org and had never heard of using distilled water before.

I am going to check around and post on what happens locally.

 

The place I got my Maxima radiator flushed two years ago has changed hands. They told me that they use distilled water.

I phoned two other radiator shops who use tap water. Mr. Lube gets their product delivered 50/50 and they didn't know if distilled water or tap water was used.

I phoned two stealerships (Richmond and Southside). Neither use distilled water. The service guy at Richmond Nissan says that he has never worked anywhere locally that uses distilled water and he sees no need for it as calcium is not a problem here.

Don't sweat the small stuff!

 

Good! I'll save some bucks that way. Thanks for checking that out!
Because of the new V1 plate going on the car I have to also replace the thermostat housing and thus the reason for the rad flush at the same time.

 

The reason to use distilled water is to remove any chemicals that may be in the water -- including, but not limited to sodium and calcium. If you don't plan to keep the vehicle for years and miles, skip this step and save money -- they won't know when you sell or trade the vehicle.

If, like me, you plan to keep your Max for a number of years and many miles, the slightly higher cost of using distilled water is simply insurance that the cooling system will function as long as the VQ it cools.

 

The engine coolant drain bolts are very difficult to access. I have tried accessing it and it is tough the least to say..

If you do indeed want a good flush this is what I do.

Drain radiator, fill with distilled water. Remove the upper radiator hose and plug the radiator end with cloth. Bring the car to normal operating temp, where the thermostat opens and it draws from the radiator while coolant comes out from the upper radiator hose, collect all the old coolant. Keeping the engine running while filling the radiator with distilled water and once you see clear water from the upper radiator hose, stop. Reconnect upper radiator hose, fill overflow tank with distilled water and let engine cool.

Now once engine cools, open radiator cap, plug the overflow end on radiator with dut tape so that coolant does not go into the overflow tang, open the air relief valve and you should see water come out of it (a lot of water comes out). Fill radiator with 100% coolant with the air relief valve opened, till 3-1/2 quarts of coolant has been put into the radiator. Close the air relief valve, start engine and bring car to operating temp while filling radiator with coolant as the air pockets are getting removed (burping). Reconnect overflow tubing, take it for a drive for the coolant and distilled water to thoroughly mix.

Now, repeat the burping step with radiator cap off a few times in the next couple days.

Done!!! (I just replaced my radiator since it was partially clogged, that is why this the procedure is on the top of my mind).

 

Thanks Love,

Your procedure is more involved and complicated that the procedure recommended in the stickies -- continue to drain the radiator and refill with distilled water (running the engine to get more complete mixing of the fluid in the radiator and in the block after each fill) until the radiator drains with clear water and no sign of antifreeze (color). Then refill the last time with new antifreeze. Bill says to buy 8 gallons of distilled water to have enough for this procedure.

What are the advantages of your procedure over that one?
Thanks.

 

One advantage is less gallons of distilled water, I used 3 gallons for the exchange.

Note both flush methods are fine since distilled water is dirt cheap but I think the method I detailed results in no mixing of old and new coolants.

The only thing to remember is relieving the closed loop system of air pockets. Nissans are hard to burp out the air pockets, that is I burp the system couple of times over many days. You are never going to get air pocket free exchange, but by burping the system couple of times over a few days, atleast gets close to it.

I messed up my OEM radiator since there were air pockets that killed my radiator and poor choice of coolants. With the new radiator and Nissan Long Life Coolant, I hope I have done due diligence to the cooling system.

I must also add I have (to the best of my knowledge reading 4th and 5th gen forums) the dubious distinction to have been the first to replace my radiator (must tell u how much I have played with flushes) -- I kind of gotten expert with cooling system now!!!

 

Thanks Love,

Where do I find the air relief valve?

also, the 6th Gen's total cooling capacity is 8 1/4 quarts of fluid, so somehow I need to be certain to put at least 4 quarts of coolant into my system to get close enough to a 50/50 mixture.

 

The air relief valve is usually on the highest point on the block. If you have the service manual for your vehicle, it should be in the lubrication and cooling section that would detail the exact location of the valve.

In the case of 5th gen (2K in particular), if one traces behind the upper radiator hose end, you will first hit 2 coolant temp sensors, then towards the end where the heater pipe is, right there is a hat like structure and a 10mm bolt on the top of it. In the serive manual it is right above the water valve assembly.

FYI, if you open the air relief valve completely coolant will come out really quick and then slowly trickles away and stops (you will loose close to 1Q - 2Q of coolant, meaning there was air trapped below multiple layers of coolant). Kind of indicates the amout of air trapped -- air is a killer, it is like having air in your viens, it will kill a person instantly!!!

Enjoy!!!

 

Thanks Love.

 

I am a newbie, so forgive me...

Regarding the burp port on the "hat-shaped" unit mentioned above...I changed coolant some weeks ago and the air valve burping discussion got me a little nervous. So, with the engine cool I, yesterday, opened the air valve (with radiator cap off) and a little coolant flowed out, maybe 2 cups, if that. Considering that fluid will flow from high to lower elevations, (from the upper portion of the radiator neck because that is a little higher than the air bleeder port), won't I always get some amount of fluid flowing out the open port? How do I know, based on using the air bleeder port, that "all" the air is out of the system, as much as can be expected?

 

Good, it is an indication less air in the system, pl. do the same another few times over another couple of days, it kind of sucks reaching that nut but then, that is the way it can be burped.

If you don't want to burp via the relief valve you could disconnect the heater hose this by far is the fastest way to burp the sucker. This procedure is used in older cars that don't have the relief valve.!!!

In the case of the flush, you will get out a lot of water as you are filling in fresh coolant.

 

tanks for info