Here's what happened: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=500039

In short, I coasted through a very very big puddle (lake?) out of gear and off the throttle. The car stalled, but had taken on enough water that it somehow got into my oil. The engine is in full running order after an oil change and a lot of easy running, but I want to do something to make dead sure that all the gunk is gone.

I'd be inclined to take this opportunity to do an AutoRx treatment, but my engine only has about 62k miles on it. My other option is Amsoil Engine Flush + Seafoam + Techron, which is much more convenient because it'd be an easier treatment to perform, and I could get the Engine Flush with my oil order and the Seafoam and Techron locally.

I've already got some opinions confirming my leanings toward the AEF + Seafoam + Techron option, but I figured I'd post in here to give the ARX pundits a chance.

If you vote, please also post your reasons.

 

I didn't vote because I am not sure you should do either. For starters, I began my AutoRX treatment at about your mileage before switching to synthetic oil in February. I am encouraged by the results and endorse the product. However, the clean and rinse phases last for 3,500 miles and I think you want instant gratification.

If you use Chevron Techron you should do it just before an oil change.

There are better products than Seafoam.

Consider LubeControl LC20 in your oil as a maintenance product.

Consider LubeControl FP60 in your gasoline as a fuel system product.

Also, use ethanol-based gasoline for awhile. It will suspend any water in the fuel system and spit it out with the exhaust.

If you do opt for an engine flush, you might want to go with the AutoRX after that.

 

Why bother, just drop VQ35 in there...


On a serious note, I doubt that ARX will help in your situation... Engine flush and seafoam should clean out almost any kind of crap. ARX, on the other hand, is a mild "solvent" that is specifically formulated to slowly remove oil sludge that has accumulated over the years.

BTW, why not use both? ARX might not help cleaning out the stuff that you sucked in, but it can certainly hep with other things... (as preventive maintenance.) 62k miles is enough to start using ARX.

 

Bob, did you notice a reduction oil consumption?

doodondood. Engine flush is waaayy overboard. So is the autoRX for this situation.

Just change the oil with good dino and a cheap filter. Then shortchange it in 1500 miles.

 

none of the oil/fuel additives mentioned here will help rid your oil of any excess water that is still in there. if anything they will cause even more wear on your bearings (ARX will not, but it will not help either). just do a couple short rinse OCIs with cheap oil as Jeff said. then do a UOA when you get 2k miles on the final rinse to check for moisture/wear.

 

Oh, I'm pretty darn sure the water is gone. I'm only concerned about deposits...

 

I wouldn't be too sure - it generally takes several OCIs to rid your oil of any contaminants. you will not visually see light H2O contamination. if it were my car I'd do a UOA to confirm it. as for the deposits - are you talking about the milky froth? again, that's best handled with a few short OCIs. water ingestion will not cause chamber deposits - if fact, it will likely dissolve them (water injection is a popular method for CC cleaning). whatever you do, go easy on the engine flushes/techron/seafoam/etc. these are harsh solvents that will eat your bearings and cause ring/piston scuffing -- I learned this lesson the hard way.

I'm also thinking there is no way that much water got around your rings. I suspect it got in through your PCV system. you may want to pull your PCV valve and inspect it. also, have you checked/replaced your air filter yet?? it must be soaked.

 

Yes, pure water can work well, but I'm pretty sure that what got into my engine was not clean. That's what I'm concerned about.

As I said, the oil that's in there right now is new as of the night the incident happened, so the froth is gone. My brother and I used 8 quarts of fresh dino oil to flush out the milkshake and then refilled with a cocktail of whatever we had kicking around (mostly Amsoil, a little M1, and some generic dino juice). I will change the oil and oil filter soon.

Thanks for reminding me about the usual concerns with using those solvents. I did one engine flush about 12k miles ago, but this engine has seen no Seafoam and one bottle of Techron in the ~21k miles that I've had it in (got it from a junkyard with 41k on it), and I don't intend to make a habit of using any of those products, except maybe for a bottle of Techron once a year or so (which amounts to 25k-30k miles for me). That's why I figured it'd probably be okay.

I have checked and cleaned my PCV system. I haven't changed the air filter because I haven't yet decided how to re-route my intake so that this doesn't happen again, and that will determine what kind of filter I get.

 

Not to ***** the thread, but in response to Jeff's query:

I only started noticing some oil consumption at about 58K, less than 3K miles before starting my AutoRX trial. Prior to that, I never added a drop of oil between oil changes. I switched to synthetic oil in February (Esso XD3, 0w30, PAO).

I currently have 3,350 miles on the OCI. Prior to a 500-mile road trip in August, I added 8 ounces of oil although I didn't particularly need to (that
was 1,950 miles into the OCI). I am still topped up.

So despite the switch to 0w30 synthetic oil, I would have to say that my oil consumption is quite low and may in fact be less than before the AutoRX trial.

To be sure, I would have to drive some more and that isn't going to happen to any extent until the spring.

I am not experiencing any oil leaks to my knowledge, just GL4 gear oil leakage as a result of a left tranny seal that needs to be replaced.

 

ok I see what you're saying. you might have a point there. i still think changing the oil a few times is the best thing for the crankcase - but as for the CC? try taking out your plugs and pointing a flashlight down in there - if your piston tops look clean then you should feel a little better. plus your compression was not too high, so you definitely don't have massive CC deposits.

 

How should they look? I did that at the time of the compression check but didn't know what I was looking for.

 

a while back I posted some pics of my piston tops with some light carbon build up but I can't find that thread (they were examples of what the pistons should not look like). ideally they will look like bare dark grey metal. if you have deposits you will either see chunks of carbon or a consistent layer of "black 50 grit sandpaper" coating the piston tops. since your compression is good (not too high) I'd bet you are fine.

 

50-grit sandpaper sounds about right, but it wasn't black. It kind of looked like it had the consistency of what you see on used spark plugs in good condition, except it was coarser and darker (brown instead of light tan).

 

Bump... Input on the piston tops thing?

 

here's a pic of the black 50 grit...


if you have anything resembling this you have some build up. again, if it were serious you'd have high compression.

 

You forgot "Neither" and "Waste of Time"............................