First!!!....Let's talk about torque wrenches?
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mine did too and they won't replace it w/o a receipt, even though it is a "hand tool". Maybe I need try replacing mine again with some other person at Sears.
interesting....I originally had a craftsman 3/8" torque wrench, but the block sheared off when I was using it as a breaker bar (
). I took it back and they didn't have another one, so they just gave me the 1/2" as a replacement. No receipt, no hassle.
Why would you need a receipt? Where else besides Sears can you buy craftsman?
). I took it back and they didn't have another one, so they just gave me the 1/2" as a replacement. No receipt, no hassle.Why would you need a receipt? Where else besides Sears can you buy craftsman?
interesting....I originally had a craftsman 3/8" torque wrench, but the block sheared off when I was using it as a breaker bar (). I took it back and they didn't have another one, so they just gave me the 1/2" as a replacement. No receipt, no hassle.
Why would you need a receipt? Where else besides Sears can you buy craftsman?
). I took it back and they didn't have another one, so they just gave me the 1/2" as a replacement. No receipt, no hassle.Why would you need a receipt? Where else besides Sears can you buy craftsman?
Custom User Title
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 238
interesting....I originally had a craftsman 3/8" torque wrench, but the block sheared off when I was using it as a breaker bar (). I took it back and they didn't have another one, so they just gave me the 1/2" as a replacement. No receipt, no hassle.
Why would you need a receipt? Where else besides Sears can you buy craftsman?
). I took it back and they didn't have another one, so they just gave me the 1/2" as a replacement. No receipt, no hassle.Why would you need a receipt? Where else besides Sears can you buy craftsman?
K-mart has a limited selection of Craftsman tools now.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
And why exactly do you feel that the needle type is innacurate? Because they are not. Calibration/age/damage, along with using one not within the middle of it's range is where you will run into trouble. IE if tourqe wrench X goes from 0-75 ft/lbs, it will not be as accurate at 75ft/lbs. I have three that I use on a regular basis (all craftsmen) depending on the force needed. The smallest is a click type, the two larger are needle.
Old Fuddy Duddy
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
I have read on occasion that Torque wrenches need recalibrated. Does anybody do that?
What "position" do people leave their wrenches in when not in use? Meaing is there a specific setting that its left in?
I have had mine a few years and want to make sure its still the tool of exact measure it should be. I have the Craftsman "digital" 3/8 drive.
What "position" do people leave their wrenches in when not in use? Meaing is there a specific setting that its left in?
I have had mine a few years and want to make sure its still the tool of exact measure it should be. I have the Craftsman "digital" 3/8 drive.
Yeah, but this thread reminded me that I need to try again, not that it really matters since I only use it for lugs these days and I just need to be careful the settings don't change while I'm tightening. I'll let y'all know what happens.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 999
From: Okc 405
i dont have to worry about setting my torque wrenches back down to zero because the beam style torque wrenches dont get messed up fro turning the dail on the side up and leaving it set there. And this i know from my Co-Workers/College Instructors/Tool truck guys all saying the same thing that a beam style torque wrench doesnt have to be turned back down after use. as for recalibrating them usually best to have it done by some pace that can do it or for the few of us using Quality tools off the tool trucks can just take it back to our tool dealers and have them calibrate them.
As a general rule... Torque wrenches should be stored at there lowest torque setting, but never go below the lowest marked setting. They should not be used in the first or last 10% of the torque range they are rated at, so if you had a torque wrench that went from 0-100 in/lbs, you should only use it for torquing between 10-90 in/lbs. Torque wrenches should be used for that function only, they should not be used as a regular ratchet wrench, they should not be used for removing bolts/nuts unless you are just check the torque level they turn at. Then a regular ratchet should be used to finish removing it. We recalibrated our torque wrenches every six months, unless it was dropped, then it had to be sent out right away. If the torque was suspect for any reason, the wrench would also be sent out. This was for military aviation use, where EVERY single bolt/nut/screw was torqued, so we used the torque wrenches several dozen times a day. Light automotive use is not so life and death 
interesting....I originally had a craftsman 3/8" torque wrench, but the block sheared off when I was using it as a breaker bar (). I took it back and they didn't have another one, so they just gave me the 1/2" as a replacement. No receipt, no hassle.
Why would you need a receipt? Where else besides Sears can you buy craftsman?
). I took it back and they didn't have another one, so they just gave me the 1/2" as a replacement. No receipt, no hassle.Why would you need a receipt? Where else besides Sears can you buy craftsman?
They swapped out a 1/2" for a 3/8"? That's weird.
K-Mart and Sears Holdings have been one for a while, now. Return policy should be the same at either store.
In any case, here's mine:
I've got a Sears 1/2" drive and 3/8" drive. I have beaten the crap out of them, using the heads as a hammer to knock out bolts on more than one occasion. 
I have since changed my ways, but one of the clickers has become difficult to switch torques and one has become easy.
Strange stuff.
I have since changed my ways, but one of the clickers has become difficult to switch torques and one has become easy.
Strange stuff.
Old Fuddy Duddy
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
As a general rule... Torque wrenches should be stored at there lowest torque setting, but never go below the lowest marked setting. They should not be used in the first or last 10% of the torque range they are rated at, so if you had a torque wrench that went from 0-100 in/lbs, you should only use it for torquing between 10-90 in/lbs. Torque wrenches should be used for that function only, they should not be used as a regular ratchet wrench, they should not be used for removing bolts/nuts unless you are just check the torque level they turn at. Then a regular ratchet should be used to finish removing it. We recalibrated our torque wrenches every six months, unless it was dropped, then it had to be sent out right away. If the torque was suspect for any reason, the wrench would also be sent out. This was for military aviation use, where EVERY single bolt/nut/screw was torqued, so we used the torque wrenches several dozen times a day. Light automotive use is not so life and death
Other than that, I do use them as described above. I have not had it recalibrated though....
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18
Sears torque wrenches don't carry the lifetime warranty even though they're labelled Craftsman. That's probably why the wanted the receipt.
The other advice here is good. Unload the spring when not in use, don't use it to undo fasteners or as a regular ratchet.
You would need a known weight or reliable yield to recalibrate a torque wrench. And of course a way on the wrench to adjust it. Very few people do it.
The other advice here is good. Unload the spring when not in use, don't use it to undo fasteners or as a regular ratchet.
You would need a known weight or reliable yield to recalibrate a torque wrench. And of course a way on the wrench to adjust it. Very few people do it.
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,586
From: the OC & Silicon Valley
I love just about everything made by Craftsman but their torque wrenches have seemed to generate several complaints, particularly when it comes to the plastic locking ring. I don't use mine very often so it's served me well for years, but I know many others who do use them often and swear that the plastic ring is a design flaw. They've even gone as far as saying they prefer a cheapo Harbor Freight-type torque wrench over a Craftsman. Considering a brand new torque wrench from Harbor Freight costs ten bucks whereas JUST recalibrating a Craftsman would cost 30 dollars (without shipping), it's hard to argue with their logic.
These are the 3 I have now.
After the new year I'm going to be trading my 1/2" drive wrench in on the one below... Just had a guy in the shop have to do a Headgasket again for free since our angle meter doesn't work. He torqued all bolts then tightened them 90 degrees then 155 degrees off of guessing...Re doing a headgasket for FREE FTL...
This one (or the newer version that looks just like it) has an angle meter built right in for torque to yield bolts.
After the new year I'm going to be trading my 1/2" drive wrench in on the one below... Just had a guy in the shop have to do a Headgasket again for free since our angle meter doesn't work. He torqued all bolts then tightened them 90 degrees then 155 degrees off of guessing...Re doing a headgasket for FREE FTL...
This one (or the newer version that looks just like it) has an angle meter built right in for torque to yield bolts.
ZOMG!
I've read in quite a few places that click-type torque wrenches are accurate from 20% of max to 100%. Accuracy only suffers on the low end.
