For the Beginner
For the Beginner
Well im 18 and going to buy me a car soon(hopefully a Max SE) and i was wonderin what we be a good "Starter Set" of tools for someone like me and what tools i would expect to need??? This is mostly so i can kinda get an idea of prices and get the parents ready for NEXT Christmas...lol
Im not sure if this has been posted anywhere before...thanks in adv!!!

Im not sure if this has been posted anywhere before...thanks in adv!!!
good hand tools are the basics. screwdrivers, rachets, sockets, wrenches, pliers. when i started buying tools i grabbed a decent size craftsman set and a hand held box. from there you can add as you go.
I have the Craftsman 190 pc. Mechanic's toolset. It's got all the sockets and wrenches I need. You'll need some pliers, Crescent wrenches, and screw drivers too.
Also a floor jack and jack stands.
Also a floor jack and jack stands.
razor knife always comes in handy too. I still consider myself a beginner too. I just got a craftsman tool chest for christmas
the tools i use the most are my ratchets and sockets. you need to have a sockets from atleast 8mm-17mm, both regular sockets and deep sockets. then also make sure you have extensions and the joints for them as they always help. If you plan to ever mess around with the electrical or LEDs then a soldering gun is good too and
to the multimeter. besides the basic screw drivers and wrenches another good basic thing to have is allen wrenches.
the tools i use the most are my ratchets and sockets. you need to have a sockets from atleast 8mm-17mm, both regular sockets and deep sockets. then also make sure you have extensions and the joints for them as they always help. If you plan to ever mess around with the electrical or LEDs then a soldering gun is good too and
to the multimeter. besides the basic screw drivers and wrenches another good basic thing to have is allen wrenches.
I got the 348 piece craftsman tool set for Christmas last year...
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...nics+Tool+Sets
Funny thing is that I still sometimes dont have the right tool....
Oh and If you get something that big you will need to get a tool cabinet. This is mine.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s+%26+Cabinets
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...nics+Tool+Sets
Funny thing is that I still sometimes dont have the right tool....
Oh and If you get something that big you will need to get a tool cabinet. This is mine.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...s+%26+Cabinets
Besides the above:
I'll tell you what...they are usually expensive (in my opinion) but universal joints are about the best thing in the world when you need them...
that and good lighting are lifesavers.
Oh, and one of the best gifts I ever received was one of those wall mounted towel dispensers...it gets used everytime I am in the garage.
I'll tell you what...they are usually expensive (in my opinion) but universal joints are about the best thing in the world when you need them...
that and good lighting are lifesavers.
Oh, and one of the best gifts I ever received was one of those wall mounted towel dispensers...it gets used everytime I am in the garage.
i think a good pair of mecanix gloves are important.
not a tool, per se, but will save you time washing your hands, as most of the crap is on the gloves, AND busting ****ing knuckles....
not to mention they do provide better grip when parts are oily or greasy.
not a tool, per se, but will save you time washing your hands, as most of the crap is on the gloves, AND busting ****ing knuckles....
not to mention they do provide better grip when parts are oily or greasy.
I got a pair. Makes things less messy.
In your case, I'd almost say "don't" buy a pre-made toolset, because then half of your money is spent on SAE tools that you won't use (at least not on a maxima).
here's what you want:
-a 1/2" and 3/8" ratchet (get good quality ones)
-complete metric socket set for 1/2" and 3/8" (should be 10-12 pieces each) up to about 19mm probably.
-complete box-end wrench set up to 19mm.
-one crescent adjustable wrench
-one vise-grip wrench
-needlenose pliers (medium size)
-set of screwdrivers with a few sizes of flat and philips-head
-fold-up hex wrench set
-utility knife
-a box of nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean (nitrile gloves are much better and rip-resistant compared to latex gloves)
-some mechanic's work gloves
-a 1/4" drive socket set. Usually pretty cheap, and can be used for alot of small interior stuff.
things you really should have but can get away without:
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench
- flare-end wrench set (for brake lines)
-
here's what you want:
-a 1/2" and 3/8" ratchet (get good quality ones)
-complete metric socket set for 1/2" and 3/8" (should be 10-12 pieces each) up to about 19mm probably.
-complete box-end wrench set up to 19mm.
-one crescent adjustable wrench
-one vise-grip wrench
-needlenose pliers (medium size)
-set of screwdrivers with a few sizes of flat and philips-head
-fold-up hex wrench set
-utility knife
-a box of nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean (nitrile gloves are much better and rip-resistant compared to latex gloves)
-some mechanic's work gloves
-a 1/4" drive socket set. Usually pretty cheap, and can be used for alot of small interior stuff.
things you really should have but can get away without:
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench
- flare-end wrench set (for brake lines)
-
if you gonna mess around with the suspension, you will also need a 1/2" 21mm and 22mm along with a 32mm and a 36mm for the axles. air tools are very helpfull but you can get away without them for the beginning. also, a crowbar comes handy.
I'd have to disagree with you there.....
WD-40 is a water dispersant and somewhat fair lubricant. it sucks ballz as a penetrating oil.
There are much better penetrating oils out there, but they're not carried at the regular parts stores..
Kano's Aero Kroil is EXCELLENT stuff, and I also highly recommend CLP Break Free as well. More expensive per can, but you don't need to use much. One 12oz can of either of these has lasted me for over a year even with constant use at my day job where I work on rusty offshore equipment on a daily basis.
with both of them, I've taken tools like pliers and crescent wrenches that were rusted solid, sprayed a few short squirts in the hinge, and within 20 minutes were working like new. It works just as well with freeing frozen bolts.
(CLP Break Free is what the military specs as gun oil, FYI...... you can buy it from McMaster, Grainger, and other industrial supply places like that.)
Just my $0.02.
WD-40 is a water dispersant and somewhat fair lubricant. it sucks ballz as a penetrating oil.
There are much better penetrating oils out there, but they're not carried at the regular parts stores..
Kano's Aero Kroil is EXCELLENT stuff, and I also highly recommend CLP Break Free as well. More expensive per can, but you don't need to use much. One 12oz can of either of these has lasted me for over a year even with constant use at my day job where I work on rusty offshore equipment on a daily basis.
with both of them, I've taken tools like pliers and crescent wrenches that were rusted solid, sprayed a few short squirts in the hinge, and within 20 minutes were working like new. It works just as well with freeing frozen bolts.
(CLP Break Free is what the military specs as gun oil, FYI...... you can buy it from McMaster, Grainger, and other industrial supply places like that.)
Just my $0.02.
Why is Sears so stupid that they don't offer kits in metric only?
im also a beginner, having only got into DIY car stuff about 6 months ago.
i got the craftsman 160 piece set at sears on sale for 40 bux plus other random pliers and knives. will also need a set of jackstands/floorjack and probably a torque wrench to do most jobs properly.
i have no garage, so i work outside....
i got the craftsman 160 piece set at sears on sale for 40 bux plus other random pliers and knives. will also need a set of jackstands/floorjack and probably a torque wrench to do most jobs properly.
i have no garage, so i work outside....
Last edited by ROCKART; Feb 27, 2008 at 12:54 PM.
A lot of great advice here.
I'd also add that you should get a clamp-on lamp, or some other lighting. You may encounter projects which are more difficult than you expected, and run out of daylight. Even if you have a garage, often the lighting wont be good enough to see well, especially under the car.
I'd also add that you should get a clamp-on lamp, or some other lighting. You may encounter projects which are more difficult than you expected, and run out of daylight. Even if you have a garage, often the lighting wont be good enough to see well, especially under the car.
I've been racking my brain, and the only things that I can think of that hasn't been mentioned is a good set of side ange strippers for wiring and a Uni-bit, also known as a step bit. Good cordless drill never hurts.
This is a little getto, but for a shop light I use a three pod halogen living room lamp. Picked it up at biglots for 20 bucks 4 years ago, and it has been through hell. It sits high over the fends so that the paint doesn't get scuffed.
This is a little getto, but for a shop light I use a three pod halogen living room lamp. Picked it up at biglots for 20 bucks 4 years ago, and it has been through hell. It sits high over the fends so that the paint doesn't get scuffed.
Agreed on lighting. My modo for the lighting system in the garage has been "no shadows". But even then there are still the nooks that remain dark. For those I use a headlamp. I like having as few extension cords or airlines running around as possible so for this reason I don't like plug in work lights. So LED headlamps or rechargable handheld worklights FTW.
Agreed on unibits as well. They get dull fairly quickly if you use them a lot so get a set with the three different sizes in it.
Ratcheting wrenches. Don't get Gearwrenches. Despite being sold at Sears they don't have a warranty like Craftsman. The Craftsman equivalents are a bit more $$$ but well worth it considering how often the ratcheting mechanism fails.
Truthfully, I find ramps to be totally worthless. Even on rough concrete they can slide fairly easily. There is only one cirumstance that ramps are absolutely required; welding on the chassis. And since this is about beginner stuff I can't imagine you'll be doing that.
Agreed on unibits as well. They get dull fairly quickly if you use them a lot so get a set with the three different sizes in it.
Ratcheting wrenches. Don't get Gearwrenches. Despite being sold at Sears they don't have a warranty like Craftsman. The Craftsman equivalents are a bit more $$$ but well worth it considering how often the ratcheting mechanism fails.
Truthfully, I find ramps to be totally worthless. Even on rough concrete they can slide fairly easily. There is only one cirumstance that ramps are absolutely required; welding on the chassis. And since this is about beginner stuff I can't imagine you'll be doing that.
I will agree with everyone who has said "do not buy a mechanics set", but not for the reasons listed. Mechanics sets are designed with two purposes in mind, one to cover a variety of jobs (good) and to include crap that nevers sells like 'torx' drivers (bad).
Buy a high quality socket set that includes metric and SAE, trust me in the long run you will be glad you did as you will use it on more than you car. Buy a quality screwdriver set, allen wrenches, pliers, vise grips (who hasn't needed those on a used car?) and a quality wrench set. Spend your money on quality (Craftsman, Snap-on, Mac). Don't cheap out on tools. Cheap tools damage bolts and break. Qualilty tools fit correctly and have a warranty so they can be replaced.
I am with Matt on not using WD-40. WD-40 is a penetrant not a lubricant. Aero Kroil is a lubricant. While WD-40 has some lubricating qualities, it actually acts more like a slippery soap than an oil. It will attract dirt and water as it dries, lubricant doesn't dry. Spray half of a bare piece of metal with WD-40, after a few days the area sprayed will become sticky and start to develop surface rust.
Buy a high quality socket set that includes metric and SAE, trust me in the long run you will be glad you did as you will use it on more than you car. Buy a quality screwdriver set, allen wrenches, pliers, vise grips (who hasn't needed those on a used car?) and a quality wrench set. Spend your money on quality (Craftsman, Snap-on, Mac). Don't cheap out on tools. Cheap tools damage bolts and break. Qualilty tools fit correctly and have a warranty so they can be replaced.
I am with Matt on not using WD-40. WD-40 is a penetrant not a lubricant. Aero Kroil is a lubricant. While WD-40 has some lubricating qualities, it actually acts more like a slippery soap than an oil. It will attract dirt and water as it dries, lubricant doesn't dry. Spray half of a bare piece of metal with WD-40, after a few days the area sprayed will become sticky and start to develop surface rust.
Last edited by jonmandude; Feb 29, 2008 at 05:17 AM.
the only time i have ever fubar'd a nut/bolt/screw/whatever is using the cheapo tools. even super rusted bolts with quality tools havent stripped(didn't move, or they broke, but didnt strip). just another $0.02
If your on a tight budget get yourself a set of good screw drivers, a good set of ratcheting wrenches(IE MAC), and a good socket set.
Other then suspension related, you can take half the maxima apart with a 8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets lol.
I was in the same position as you are, well still am, tools are expensive, think of them like a car, you buy a POS set of tools, it gives you POS results..such as rounding off bolts, stripping screws, breaking ratches which results in busted knuckles. For a beginner craftsman will do you just fine. Good quality and at a fair price!
Other then suspension related, you can take half the maxima apart with a 8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets lol.
I was in the same position as you are, well still am, tools are expensive, think of them like a car, you buy a POS set of tools, it gives you POS results..such as rounding off bolts, stripping screws, breaking ratches which results in busted knuckles. For a beginner craftsman will do you just fine. Good quality and at a fair price!
Last edited by 00MaxSE; Mar 10, 2008 at 09:19 AM.
If you sheared a 3/4" drive you better be entering the World's Strongest Man competition tomorrow. 3/8" definitely doable. 1/2" and you gotta be really layin on it. 3/4" and you better be using a 4ft breaker bar and jumping on it with three people.
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