ok so I take out the brake assemby and the rotor. But the stupid broken stud would not come out!! I kept hammering it, but it didnt budge. My max is a 98, but its got 120k miles, and there must be lots of rust.

But today I also took apart my rear left suspension to fix a noise problem and succeeded! Lesson: You know that little cup lookin plate that goes below the bumpstop? That goes BELOW the bumpstop, not ABOVE. I was so tired when I was doing my suspension 2 months ago that I put that plate above the bumpstop. Stamina is important when doing an all nighter mod. hehehe

 

 

Yeah, those studs are damn shiets! I had to bang out three of them after some punk NTB kid overtorqued the nuts or maybe stripped them. In any case, I did succeed in banging them out but was damn afraid I might have damaged the wheel bearings in doing so...hopefully not. I would have bought a press to pop the studs out but went EVERYWHERE in town and could not find someone who sells the tool.

Good luck with that... you may need a heavy-weight hammer and some liquid wrench pre-treatment.

 

They have a press for popping studs out? what does it look like and how much do they cost??

 

bang harder

 

Haynes has a picture of it. Somewhat related to a C-clamp although one end is split to allow the stud to pop out the back.

 

A press is cool but then you need the hub off unless you have a small portable one

i would use a punch and a heavier hammer and give it one nice pop

walmart has a tool made by popular mechanics called a three prong puller is used to remove crank pulley and other stuff but it can also be a 2 prong puller this might be able to push it out

its about 20 beans lifetime warranty or if it doesnt suite the need return it

 

If you have a mini 5-pound sledgehammer, use that. A regular hammer does not have enough leverage to do the job. I just replaced a broken wheel stud 3 days ago and my Max is a 96 with 152k. So mine were rusted kinda bad. But after 5-10 hits, it started budging. Just keep trying.....