Some pics of my Stillen rotors after 8 months
01-09-2001, 12:02 AM
#1
Why did they only crack on the outer side, not the inner too?
My calipers are in excellent shape- nothing is binding, all bolts torqued correctly- and I've "only" gone through one set of Bendix pads, which are fairly low-temp compared to Axxis or Porterfields. (I've got a set of Axxis in the mail now)
These are 8 months old, with about 12k miles on them.
(large- about 100kbytes each)
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/left1.jpg>left1.jpg</a>
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/left2.jpg>left2.jpg</a>
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/right1.jpg>right1.jpg</a>
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/right2.jpg>right2.jpg</a>
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/receipt.jpg>receipt.jpg</a>
My calipers are in excellent shape- nothing is binding, all bolts torqued correctly- and I've "only" gone through one set of Bendix pads, which are fairly low-temp compared to Axxis or Porterfields. (I've got a set of Axxis in the mail now)
These are 8 months old, with about 12k miles on them.
(large- about 100kbytes each)
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/left1.jpg>left1.jpg</a>
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/left2.jpg>left2.jpg</a>
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/right1.jpg>right1.jpg</a>
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/right2.jpg>right2.jpg</a>
<a href=http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pics/car/stillen_rotors/receipt.jpg>receipt.jpg</a>
01-09-2001, 12:27 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 387
Question.. have you ever during that 12K miles
Went for a little drive or whatever... run your car through a car wash... washed your car after driving.. (get the picture...)
I've heard that washing your car immediately or getting the rotors wet after driving..can warp/crack in your case because the rotors are being cooled too quickly.
If you have done none of this to your knowledge, I can't offer another explanation.
I've heard that washing your car immediately or getting the rotors wet after driving..can warp/crack in your case because the rotors are being cooled too quickly.
If you have done none of this to your knowledge, I can't offer another explanation.
01-09-2001, 12:30 AM
#3
I've been very careful to never do that strictly for that reason..
That was my only guess too, that maybe I've hit a puddle of water and somehow sizzled them while driving.
It's either that of my famous 120-75 panic stop on the highway when I see a cop!
That was my only guess too, that maybe I've hit a puddle of water and somehow sizzled them while driving.
It's either that of my famous 120-75 panic stop on the highway when I see a cop!
01-09-2001, 03:44 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 722
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
I've been very careful to never do that strictly for that reason..
That was my only guess too, that maybe I've hit a puddle of water and somehow sizzled them while driving.
It's either that of my famous 120-75 panic stop on the highway when I see a cop!
I've been very careful to never do that strictly for that reason..
That was my only guess too, that maybe I've hit a puddle of water and somehow sizzled them while driving.
It's either that of my famous 120-75 panic stop on the highway when I see a cop!
Dave
01-09-2001, 05:14 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,342
Originally posted by wdave
Drilled rotors are very prone to cracking, especially if the base rotor wasn't designed to be drilled, vented more so than solid. Racers who use them end up replacing them every few races, if not every race. If hot appearance or performance is the object, slotting is the better solution, especially for street use.
Dave
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
I've been very careful to never do that strictly for that reason..
That was my only guess too, that maybe I've hit a puddle of water and somehow sizzled them while driving.
It's either that of my famous 120-75 panic stop on the highway when I see a cop!
I've been very careful to never do that strictly for that reason..
That was my only guess too, that maybe I've hit a puddle of water and somehow sizzled them while driving.
It's either that of my famous 120-75 panic stop on the highway when I see a cop!
Dave
I didn't know that drilled rotors will do that so easy..Most people that I know get them instead of slotted one's thinking that thier better,And don't have to replace them every so often
01-09-2001, 05:18 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
I have had my rotors that I just took out after 8 months. They have no cracking whatsoever. We are extremely hard on them too. Don't know why we haven't had any problems with them whatsoever. We were using matrix pads and strictly foolowed the break in period for the rotors. Sorry to see that happen to you.
01-09-2001, 08:04 AM
#7
Originally posted by vapors smx
I have had my rotors that I just took out after 8 months. They have no cracking whatsoever. We are extremely hard on them too. Don't know why we haven't had any problems with them whatsoever. We were using matrix pads and strictly foolowed the break in period for the rotors. Sorry to see that happen to you.
I have had my rotors that I just took out after 8 months. They have no cracking whatsoever. We are extremely hard on them too. Don't know why we haven't had any problems with them whatsoever. We were using matrix pads and strictly foolowed the break in period for the rotors. Sorry to see that happen to you.
My comments mirror vapors comments.
I had mine on for nearly a year and a half. I removed mine because of warpage, and I was not careful (because I was ignorant) about washing the car when the rotors were still hot, etc.
You may want to give Porterfield a call and get some new Brembos cross-drilled and then cryo-treated. I'm pretty sure that will run you $300, as mine were $220 w/shipping with just a cryo-treatment. If I remember right, I think it was $40 per rotor for cross-drilling.....
01-09-2001, 09:57 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
From my experience on a fbody, the slotted rotors WARP much faster than stock rotors. They suck.
Originally posted by wdave
Drilled rotors are very prone to cracking, especially if the base rotor wasn't designed to be drilled, vented more so than solid. Racers who use them end up replacing them every few races, if not every race. If hot appearance or performance is the object, slotting is the better solution, especially for street use.
Dave
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
I've been very careful to never do that strictly for that reason..
That was my only guess too, that maybe I've hit a puddle of water and somehow sizzled them while driving.
It's either that of my famous 120-75 panic stop on the highway when I see a cop!
I've been very careful to never do that strictly for that reason..
That was my only guess too, that maybe I've hit a puddle of water and somehow sizzled them while driving.
It's either that of my famous 120-75 panic stop on the highway when I see a cop!
Dave
01-09-2001, 09:58 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Your not MATT man... Matt drives like a MANIAC!
Originally posted by vapors smx
I have had my rotors that I just took out after 8 months. They have no cracking whatsoever. We are extremely hard on them too. Don't know why we haven't had any problems with them whatsoever. We were using matrix pads and strictly foolowed the break in period for the rotors. Sorry to see that happen to you.
I have had my rotors that I just took out after 8 months. They have no cracking whatsoever. We are extremely hard on them too. Don't know why we haven't had any problems with them whatsoever. We were using matrix pads and strictly foolowed the break in period for the rotors. Sorry to see that happen to you.
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