Break in procedure for new Max
03-14-2003, 12:16 PM
#1
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 5
Break in procedure for new Max
I'd do a search but we all know what's going on with that.
Any suggestions for break in procedures other than what is in the owner's manual?
How long before I should do the first oil change? What type of oil are people putting in these?
Add any other pertinent information you can think of. Thanks.
Any suggestions for break in procedures other than what is in the owner's manual?
How long before I should do the first oil change? What type of oil are people putting in these?
Add any other pertinent information you can think of. Thanks.
03-14-2003, 02:54 PM
#4
Originally posted by NickStam
Drive under 70 mph for the first 120,000 miles
Drive under 70 mph for the first 120,000 miles
120,000
btw zak, the break in information can be found in your owners manual
under 70 mph for 500-1000 miles, don't rev the engine over 3500 rpm
03-14-2003, 02:58 PM
#5
03-14-2003, 03:40 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,883
Originally posted by Larrio
lol
120,000
btw zak, the break in information can be found in your owners manual
under 70 mph for 500-1000 miles, don't rev the engine over 3500 rpm
lol
120,000
btw zak, the break in information can be found in your owners manual
under 70 mph for 500-1000 miles, don't rev the engine over 3500 rpm
03-14-2003, 05:12 PM
#7
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
I drove mine like I stole it off the lot. WOT quite often the first day I owned it, man it was fun going from a 4 banger to a 3 liter V6.
4 years later and 60,000 miles, I don't use a drop of oil and my oil analysis comes back very clean. (Castrol GTX)
Never had anything mechanical fail.
Runs like the day I baught it.
Shines like the day I baught it too. Well ok so that doesnt count.
Haven't even tuned the thing up yet and I get 28MPG on a trip hauling A$$.
I don't belive in the break in process for new engines, especially the VQ with it's micro bore cylinder wall finish. (if thats what they call it)
I did take it easy on the brakes for the first 300 miles so my pads would seat in nicely with fresh rotors.
I wonder if indy car engines get "broken in" prior to them being put through absolute he11? - Think about that.....
4 years later and 60,000 miles, I don't use a drop of oil and my oil analysis comes back very clean. (Castrol GTX)
Never had anything mechanical fail.
Runs like the day I baught it.
Shines like the day I baught it too. Well ok so that doesnt count.
Haven't even tuned the thing up yet and I get 28MPG on a trip hauling A$$.
I don't belive in the break in process for new engines, especially the VQ with it's micro bore cylinder wall finish. (if thats what they call it)
I did take it easy on the brakes for the first 300 miles so my pads would seat in nicely with fresh rotors.
I wonder if indy car engines get "broken in" prior to them being put through absolute he11? - Think about that.....
03-14-2003, 05:16 PM
#8
Indy engines are built to run that way. Plus they are dyno run extensively before the get put into a chassis. You CAN build an engine to require no break in but I don't know which maker do/don't.
Since the VETTE and BMW cars have Mobil 1 as their intial fill, I would hazard to guess their break in is very short to non-existant.
Since the VETTE and BMW cars have Mobil 1 as their intial fill, I would hazard to guess their break in is very short to non-existant.
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
I wonder if indy car engines get "broken in" prior to them being put through absolute he11? - Think about that.....
I wonder if indy car engines get "broken in" prior to them being put through absolute he11? - Think about that.....
03-14-2003, 07:21 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 44
My Experience
My Maintenance Scedule for the first 6000 miles - Current miles = 900
Note: I like to change my oil if you couldn't tell ....
500 Miles - Oil was filthy, black in color. Solution = Oil and filter change with quality regular oil, Now at 900 miles oil looks like golden honey.
1000 Miles - Oil and filter change, regular oil.
2000 Miles - Oil and filter change, regular oil.
3750 Miles - Oil and filter change at dealer, (regular oil) so they check out car at least once while I own it.
6000 Miles - Oil change and switch to synthetic oil, probably Quaker State Full Synthetic or AMSOIL.
This may seem excessive, but the first 5-6K miles are very important. I can change the oil in 5 minutes for $10. Pretty cheap insurance to get any filings and dirt out of a brand new engine. Only use Nissan filters, or AC Delco, or Purolator (Pure One) (NOT FRAM - they're very cheaply constructed). Check out the links below, I was amazed.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...tudy.html#fram
Note: I like to change my oil if you couldn't tell ....
500 Miles - Oil was filthy, black in color. Solution = Oil and filter change with quality regular oil, Now at 900 miles oil looks like golden honey.
1000 Miles - Oil and filter change, regular oil.
2000 Miles - Oil and filter change, regular oil.
3750 Miles - Oil and filter change at dealer, (regular oil) so they check out car at least once while I own it.
6000 Miles - Oil change and switch to synthetic oil, probably Quaker State Full Synthetic or AMSOIL.
This may seem excessive, but the first 5-6K miles are very important. I can change the oil in 5 minutes for $10. Pretty cheap insurance to get any filings and dirt out of a brand new engine. Only use Nissan filters, or AC Delco, or Purolator (Pure One) (NOT FRAM - they're very cheaply constructed). Check out the links below, I was amazed.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...tudy.html#fram
03-14-2003, 07:50 PM
#10
Re: My Experience
Originally posted by REVHIGH
My Maintenance Scedule for the first 6000 miles - Current miles = 900
Note: I like to change my oil if you couldn't tell ....
500 Miles - Oil was filthy, black in color. Solution = Oil and filter change with quality regular oil, Now at 900 miles oil looks like golden honey.
1000 Miles - Oil and filter change, regular oil.
2000 Miles - Oil and filter change, regular oil.
3750 Miles - Oil and filter change at dealer, (regular oil) so they check out car at least once while I own it.
6000 Miles - Oil change and switch to synthetic oil, probably Quaker State Full Synthetic or AMSOIL.
This may seem excessive, but the first 5-6K miles are very important. I can change the oil in 5 minutes for $10. Pretty cheap insurance to get any filings and dirt out of a brand new engine. Only use Nissan filters, or AC Delco, or Purolator (Pure One) (NOT FRAM - they're very cheaply constructed). Check out the links below, I was amazed.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...tudy.html#fram
My Maintenance Scedule for the first 6000 miles - Current miles = 900
Note: I like to change my oil if you couldn't tell ....
500 Miles - Oil was filthy, black in color. Solution = Oil and filter change with quality regular oil, Now at 900 miles oil looks like golden honey.
1000 Miles - Oil and filter change, regular oil.
2000 Miles - Oil and filter change, regular oil.
3750 Miles - Oil and filter change at dealer, (regular oil) so they check out car at least once while I own it.
6000 Miles - Oil change and switch to synthetic oil, probably Quaker State Full Synthetic or AMSOIL.
This may seem excessive, but the first 5-6K miles are very important. I can change the oil in 5 minutes for $10. Pretty cheap insurance to get any filings and dirt out of a brand new engine. Only use Nissan filters, or AC Delco, or Purolator (Pure One) (NOT FRAM - they're very cheaply constructed). Check out the links below, I was amazed.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corve...tudy.html#fram
of course, it's your car, your time, and your money so no one is going to tell you how or what to do.
switching to synthetic would be better after a 10,000 mile mark, but once again.. it's your car, do whatever you want.
03-14-2003, 08:13 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 44
Re: Re: My Experience
Agreed ... happily excessive !
I've talked to many mechanics and read a lot of technical articles. Most say you can change to SYN as early as 3000 miles for cars that do NOT come with synthetic. Obviously, cars that come from the factory with SYN can use it immediately. I'm waiting double the mentioned amount of miles.
I broke in a 1992 Acura Legend this way and it now has 185,000 miles on it with absolutely no engine work, perfect compression, and it doesn't use a drop of oil. Maybe that would have happened anyway though.
3 extra oil changes in the life of a car in it's early life at $10 each won't mean anything (cost wise) over the life of the car, and it makes me feel like I did something good !!!
To each his own !
Maybe when oil is $20 a quart after the war I'll change my mind ....
I've talked to many mechanics and read a lot of technical articles. Most say you can change to SYN as early as 3000 miles for cars that do NOT come with synthetic. Obviously, cars that come from the factory with SYN can use it immediately. I'm waiting double the mentioned amount of miles.
I broke in a 1992 Acura Legend this way and it now has 185,000 miles on it with absolutely no engine work, perfect compression, and it doesn't use a drop of oil. Maybe that would have happened anyway though.
3 extra oil changes in the life of a car in it's early life at $10 each won't mean anything (cost wise) over the life of the car, and it makes me feel like I did something good !!!
To each his own !
Maybe when oil is $20 a quart after the war I'll change my mind ....
03-15-2003, 04:48 PM
#13
Lets also remember that these engines are only designed to go about 500 miles. After a race, they are always taken apart, inspected, etc and re built.
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
I wonder if indy car engines get "broken in" prior to them being put through absolute he11? - Think about that.....
I wonder if indy car engines get "broken in" prior to them being put through absolute he11? - Think about that.....
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