BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Well me and bags533 went to the dyno shop so I could see what the car was putting out after we made a few changed like changed out the fmu to the cartech, getting the fuel pump to push 100psi again, and added another fan, alot of other changes that shouldve put me well over 300whp at 10psi. Yeap we cranked it upto 10psi.

So the 1st run wanted to make sure everything was alright, we ran it at 6psi. Cranked out only 200whp, from the last time I ran 5psi I put down near 260whp. So I knew I was running off the chart rich. Below 10:1 a/f. So then I cranked up the boost to 8psi and backed out the fmu a bit. Did a 2nd run to redline and saw it put down only 220whp. But heres where it gets good, near the end of the run the SES light went on and then I thought nothing of it cause we were probably running so rich I threw a code. So cleared it by taking the battery off, came back 15mins to make the 3rd run, and the car would not start anymore. After about 8cranks we got it running but it was idling above 1500 and then we couldnt take it past 2500rpm. So we cut the dyno short and called it day before we took anymore chances and had to push the car off the dyno. So basically had to drive home 15miles in limp mode.

Will do a compression test again to make sure nothing else happened even thought I did one last week. And have to order a MAF.

So basically my point behind all this is You CANNOT push 8+psi on the MAF when it is on the Charged Piping side. Not a single 5th gen is doing that. I know IceY2k1 told me I might have issues, and he was right.

Also probably why the HP was totally off because the MAF was on its way to the wonderful MAF heaven in the Sky.

Dixit

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

Wow, that stinks

ejj

iTrader: (5)

But lots of 4th gen guys are...is there a difference in MAF's?

Ramius83

Dixit, the problems just never end for you and Bags do they? Anyways, are you gonne have to change this as well?

EJJ: Yes, they suck lol.....

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Dude, the problems will never end. This is the perk of getting a turbo kit from a designer who knows so much.

Well I bought a MIG welder so we will be redoing the entire kit. Bags will be at my new house Sunday working on his POS while I work on Mine. Im gonna move the MAF to the intake side. Exten the wires and move it there.

Dixit

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Yes... 5th gens (2k-2k1) see a lower air flow % reading on the AFC compared to a 4th gen. Cheston, Matthel, Nigel, and Jane all see 9X percent, while maxboost00 and I only see 7X percent (same for SC and TC). So in other words, your MAF will max out before ours.



Sorry you're having so many problems, Dixit. At least we now know which kit is better... but at your and Kirk's cost.

ejj

iTrader: (5)

But that doesn't explain why people who are putting them on the charged side have more problems in 5th gens.

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Hey, shiet happens. Gotta deal with it in life and move on. We will see what happens with mine. I got a MIG welder two weeks ago and will be REdoing the entire kit most likely.

Well I think for what I know, I was the only person putting the MAF on the charged side of the 5th gens.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

What happens when a MAF gets blown? Does the square cover plate become unsealed, or what?

ejj

iTrader: (5)

So it could be a freak thing...

Regardless, problems like this suck. Sorry man.

Stephen: Do I smell a, "I told you so" coming.

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

On the MAF there is a element, that element heats up and the air cools it down, then the ECM heats it up more to maintain the certain temp. That is how a MAF works.

When you burn up the MAF or blow it, same thing. What happens is that the element most likely is burnt, so it cant heat up anymore.

Dixit

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Maaaaaaaybeeeeeeeee. But first I need to find out if a blown MAF is what I think it is so I don't embarrass myself.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Sort of like a light bulb filament burning through? So how does the boost pressure cause this?

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Well I got a feeling when I was pushing 8psi and the element was heating up to try to get the temp on it, and then it hit the rev limiter and it basically cut the air flow in a split second and the element at split second overheated and burned it self up.

Dixit

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

That makes sense.

I think I might get a shift light, since I tend to hit the rev limiter occasionally, what with keeping my eyes on the EGT gauge while trying to get the most out of the MEVI.

ejj

iTrader: (5)

Need a 3rd eye!

I've considered dropping money on better guages that have memory/playback features just because of this. Too many damn things to watch!

hokiemax

iTrader: (2)

oh man u made 260whp on 5psi? thats awesome. cant wait to see what 10psi will do. Dixit is a warrior and I believe in him.

nadir_s

larry has struck again!!

sorry to hear that though

Y2KSESteve

iTrader: (22)

I'm sure you'll get it all worked out Dixit. Good luck.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Don't quote me on that bish...I was just talking out my **** like usual.

J/K...man I don't have a clue why SC'd 4th gens. can get away with it, but Stillen later changed the design so that tends to suggest they were having issues.

Anyways, I'd just buy the element from DAVEB for like $50-$75 and see how long it lasts. If you fry another one, I'd move the MAF and HEAT SHIELD that bish. Also, you might consider going with a Pathfinder MAF like Mardi did. Or maybe a 350Z/G35?

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Well Alex, I think im going to just move it over to the intake side. I think that is the correct place and then redyno the car again.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Good luck!

I hope things start to go smoother...keep up the fight.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

I wanna see you weld

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Yea so do I Youll see Sunday. We'll start off with welding some crap to your car first, hahha

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

You dont know what I can do with a welder, Im going to weld the hell out of a rack of things. I basically went to home depot and bought a bunch of odds and ends metals and just going to weld everything. Watch me, Im going to be looking for things to be welding in the house/car, just a new toy

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Hey that might solve your HID theft worries.

BTW, did you ever get your keyless entry to work?

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Alex got it to work, for some reason the unit was jacked up. When the battery went dead on my car over 2weeks when i didnt drive it, and I jumped it and after that never saw the problem again, probably cleared the problem.

Good idea on the HID theft, I can weld some bracket on that bad boy. But then again the car is always parked in a garage. But I can make one for you guys.

MaximaMan77

You might want to get 2 sets of helmets or a helmet and a set of goggles. So you both can see during the learning process. Also 2 eyes are better than 1 sometimes.
Once you get it to puddle move at a steady pace and you'll be all right. If your going to be doing a lot of practice get some long gloves or wear an old long sleave shirt. Don't want sun burned arms
My roomate is an iron worker and he has shown me quite a bit. He's aslo come home many days with burnt arms and neck, even right under his nose. I'll ask him if he was outside all day. Most of the time he says nope...

Bags

iTrader: (3)

you'll be welded as the hood orament if you make it look worse than it is..lol

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Now that's a GOOD IDEA!

See who welds better. The muffler shop 'expert' or someone who's never even welded before, Dixit.

This could be worth a few pics.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

your cars gonna be the 2ND car he welds on

Ramius83

Well, if you guys need help, I am pretty good at welding. Adam, my buddy who helped me with my 5-speed swap, has a welder and I have used it periodically on some projects.....

chinaonnitrous1

iTrader: (12)

WTF Dixit and I are not even in the same state! its not my fault.

mingo

iTrader: (4)

if you dont' have a flex section yet, i suggest that u add one. if there's not enough room for the down pipe that goes vertical (which i doubt there would be room) add one right after the vertical bend because you want a flex section there due to the engines rotational orientation. because if you don't u'll end up stressing on parts that you dont' want to. since you have a mig welder now, i suggest that you build your own custom maf sensor tube out of metal. my friend built one on his TT and it works great. perhaps even going with an aftermarket maf might better your situation. i haven't seen anyone go that route, but it doesn't seem like a bad idea.