Cutting cross drilled rotors
#1
Cutting cross drilled rotors
Ok, I tried the search and got some info, but bottom line can you resurface these or do I need to buy new ones. My pads wore out I got cross drilled from PowerStop. I love the way the rotors stop the car but buying new ones everytime is probably not worth it.
#6
Originally posted by PiotrC70
Personally, I'd take them to a shop that does resurface them, and after that monitor the brakes to make sure you don't get cracks on the ouside edges.
Good luck.
Personally, I'd take them to a shop that does resurface them, and after that monitor the brakes to make sure you don't get cracks on the ouside edges.
Good luck.
#8
I just had mine cut
I have the 12.9" Brembo Gran Turismo 2-piece cross-drilled rotor kit and at $260 per rotor, I'd like to keep them as long as I can. I just replaced my pads and I noticed that my rotor wasn't perfectly smooth. I took them to Kragen and they charged $10 per rotor for cutting. It took about 20 minutes per rotor to be turned, but well worth it. They were as smooth as when they were new. I reinstalled them and bedded the pads with the rotors...drove around and did some long smooth braking while making each stop from a faster speed. Then I cruised down PCH for 6 miles without touching the brake pedal. I don't think the integrity of the disc was compromised my the cutting.
#9
Re: I just had mine cut
Originally posted by Kevin Wong
I have the 12.9" Brembo Gran Turismo 2-piece cross-drilled rotor kit and at $260 per rotor, I'd like to keep them as long as I can. I just replaced my pads and I noticed that my rotor wasn't perfectly smooth. I took them to Kragen and they charged $10 per rotor for cutting. It took about 20 minutes per rotor to be turned, but well worth it. They were as smooth as when they were new. I reinstalled them and bedded the pads with the rotors...drove around and did some long smooth braking while making each stop from a faster speed. Then I cruised down PCH for 6 miles without touching the brake pedal. I don't think the integrity of the disc was compromised my the cutting.
I have the 12.9" Brembo Gran Turismo 2-piece cross-drilled rotor kit and at $260 per rotor, I'd like to keep them as long as I can. I just replaced my pads and I noticed that my rotor wasn't perfectly smooth. I took them to Kragen and they charged $10 per rotor for cutting. It took about 20 minutes per rotor to be turned, but well worth it. They were as smooth as when they were new. I reinstalled them and bedded the pads with the rotors...drove around and did some long smooth braking while making each stop from a faster speed. Then I cruised down PCH for 6 miles without touching the brake pedal. I don't think the integrity of the disc was compromised my the cutting.
Doesn't look like it'd be a waste of time... it'd be a wast of money and you'd be stupid if you fork out $500 for a new set of rotors. W/ that kind of money you can buy and AFC or Boost controller...
#10
When you re-surface cross drill rotors you are reducing the tapered angled cut from each hole, probably to the point where it'll be a staright thru hole instead of tapered. Doing so increases the chances of stress cracks developing at each hole, and so on, and so on.
Now, can cross drill be resurface IMO of course it can. I believe the shop who don't re-surface cross drill rotors are doing so for the best interest of their equipment and probably the liablity factor. Most auto chains set standards like, not cutting cross drill, not patching ZR rated tires or tires with Fix-A-flat, etc. If you can't find a auto chain that's willing, maybe a Ma and Pop place might do.
I have cross drill rotors, IMO it's not needed for a street car. That's why I'll never go this route again for a street car, besides I'm tired of the wind mill noise created by the many holes in the rotor when braking. But they do look better compared to blanks.
Now, can cross drill be resurface IMO of course it can. I believe the shop who don't re-surface cross drill rotors are doing so for the best interest of their equipment and probably the liablity factor. Most auto chains set standards like, not cutting cross drill, not patching ZR rated tires or tires with Fix-A-flat, etc. If you can't find a auto chain that's willing, maybe a Ma and Pop place might do.
I have cross drill rotors, IMO it's not needed for a street car. That's why I'll never go this route again for a street car, besides I'm tired of the wind mill noise created by the many holes in the rotor when braking. But they do look better compared to blanks.
#11
Re: Re: I just had mine cut
Originally posted by PiotrC70
Deezo... You were saying????
Doesn't look like it'd be a waste of time... it'd be a wast of money and you'd be stupid if you fork out $500 for a new set of rotors. W/ that kind of money you can buy and AFC or Boost controller...
Deezo... You were saying????
Doesn't look like it'd be a waste of time... it'd be a wast of money and you'd be stupid if you fork out $500 for a new set of rotors. W/ that kind of money you can buy and AFC or Boost controller...
#12
Kevin. If Kragan did the cutting. I bet they just cut the standard xx" off the rotor vs cutting just enough to get the rotor true. Now as everyone as said, cutting x-drilled rotors is not recommended. One other reason is x-drilled rotors might have a different minimum thickness safety rating. ie.. the min thickness that is safe to cut the rotor down too. If you cut a rotor too thin, it reduces the heat sink capability of the rotor to an unsafe rating. I know non-drilled rotors have a min thickness stamped on the rotor itself. Does your x-drilled rotors have that also? AND if it does have a min thickness rating, is that for the drilled or non-drilled version? x-drilled rotors have less mass, thus less heat sinking capabilty.
#13
The minimum on my rotors are 25mm. Before the turning, the lowest point on the disc was 27.1mm. I asked them to cut as little as possible so I can get the most use out of the disc. After the cutting, the lowest point was still 27.1mm, but it looked and felt a lot smoother...no more groves and the rotor was all one color. I called both Brembo and the tirerack and they both advised the turning of the rotor when replacing the pads. I took their advice, and I'm happy.
#14
Originally posted by Kevin Wong The minimum on my rotors are 25mm. Before the turning, the lowest point on the disc was 27.1mm. I asked them to cut as little as possible so I can get the most use out of the disc. After the cutting, the lowest point was still 27.1mm, but it looked and felt a lot smoother...no more groves and the rotor was all one color. I called both Brembo and the tirerack and they both advised the turning of the rotor when replacing the pads. I took their advice, and I'm happy.
#15
Originally posted by CandiMan
I assumed you told them it was cross drill rotors. Or did you leave that out and they thought you were refering to blanks
I assumed you told them it was cross drill rotors. Or did you leave that out and they thought you were refering to blanks
#16
I just had my cross drilled rotors cut last week. They had a slight shudder and i didnt wanna buy new ones so just had them cut. They are as smooth now as when they were new. They do eat up the tips on the lathes tho.
-Steve
-Steve
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