A round object, 3" in diameter, showed up in the mail yesterday just in time for the long weekend, soooo:

This weekend I am going to
1. remove supercharger
2. replace timing chain tensioner
3. replace water pump
4. install coolant temp sensor hose splice
5. remove 3.25" SC pulley and install 3" pulley
6. reinstall SC kit
7. remove sparkplugs
8. do compression test
9. install new sparkplugs

Whew!

 

damn, that is going to be a lot of work. hope you get finished.

 

Why do you need to replace then tensioner and the water pump ?

 

I'm getting the timing chain/valve train rattle at startup, and my water pump leaks occasionally at the seals. Since I'm going to be removing the SC bracket in order to put the smaller pulley on, now is the time to do the tensioner and pump replacement.

 

Sounds like fun!

What are you doing for fuel until your ECU/Injector setup is ready?

What are you doing with the 3.25 pully?

 

I'll still be using the 8:1 fmu for now; I don't think it will be too lean, but I'll keep an eye on the egt. I am going to keep the pulley for a while. I'll let you have first dibs if I eventually decide to sell it.

 

How long did JWT say it will take? Have you figured out how you're relocating the MAF?

Schweet.

 

Are you removing the engine or just removing the passenger side engine mount to get at the tensioner and water pump?

 

10 weeks. I gave them my CC number on the 7th, so I guess there's still 7 weeks to go.

I'm still working out details with maf placement. I think I can connect it directly to the large CAI filter in the wheel well and use my old prcai pipe to connect to the blower intake. The 3" prcai pipe has a much tighter elbow, so it takes up less room than the 3.5" pipe you and I are using. I'll just cut off what I don't need. Then I have to have an opening for bov recirculation cut into either the elbow or the straight portion leading into the blower inlet.

 

Now there's a thought. If I remove the engine then I could do other stuff, like put headers on. Maybe later.

From what I've read, you don't need to remove the engine or the mount to do the job, although it may be worth it to remove the mount just to gain a little extra access to the tensioner.

 

When I did mine I was replacing my clutch so I shifted the whole engine over 5" to get at the tensioner. It is pretty tight to get at. Please lets us know how you make out. Good Luck

Also make sure you have one of those teloscopic magnents just in case you drop something in the engine. That thing saved my butt when the tensioner plunger shot down into the timing case. My jaw dropped. It took only one try to get it out with the teloscopic magnents.

 

That's insane. For a programed they already have developed, it should take them about 2 hours to re-burn and package the ECU.

Sounds like a plan. What are you going to do on the charged side? Just get a elbow to replace the stock MAF?

Getting to the tensioner and water pump was really easy with the engine out.

I can't imagine removing that one mount would do anything. With the crossmember still hooked up, the engine won't have much "play". If you're daring you could remove the 3 motor mounts, and lower then engine a few inches (with it on a jack). That may make things a tad easier.

 

Yes removing the mount allows better access to the tensioner and water pump but does not give you any clearance gains. It is a very tight install.( probably need a small mirror). I had enough problem with another 4-5" of clearance. You have to have alot of patience.

 

What Ben at JWT told me was that they have a massive amount of work to do because racing season is starting up.


I bought a used Maxima maf for cheap that I am going to remove the screens and heating element from and use it. That is the easiest thing to do since it will bolt right up to the Stillen charge air pipe.

 

I consider my telescoping magnet to be the most valuable tool I own, and I have a well stocked toolshed. Saved my butt numerous times.