deezo

iTrader: (3)

I took my car to Sears because I have a Diehard Gold battery so they could check out my battery because since last week, it hasn't been holding a charge. Low and behold they gave me a new battery but my battery light still comes on when I'm under 2000 RPM. The tech told me that the diode is shot (which their computer told them). The tech is telling me that my system is overworking the alternators but it's still powering everything fine.

I still have a spare alternator that I need to have rebuilt. Should I have it upgraded to give me more amps? My total system is around 700w and I have fogs, HID's and a satalite radio.

HitManSE

iTrader: (1)

That mach draw should be busting your alternator, you got something else messed up. I would say try an OEM alternator but those are anything but cheap. I dont know about Sears though, we get atleast 20 customers a week sent over from Sears because they couldnt figure out whats really wrong.
It might be possible that you have a drain somewere, If only I was closer...hmmm...do you have access to a test light

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't sound like he's having a amp "draw" problem where's he has to jump the car every morning because of a dead battery, it sounds like he has a busted alternator for the 3rd time.

Deezo since this is your 3rd alt you need to have someone measure your amperage draw while you have your audio system crank, lights on and any other typical accessories you might use on a regular basis. Do this after your install your new alternator, becasue at his point your current alternator is inop. If you're drawing more amps than your alternator can produce you'll be looking for another alternator again. Also while they are measuring your total system amperage draw (with your audio crank, lights on) keep a look on your voltage if it's droping below 12.6v your alternator definately can not keep up with the load. At that point you need a upgraded alternator (that produces more amps) or start removing some of your creature comfort electrical goodies.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Deezo, if you can get your hands on an OEM alty. just get a diode and brush replacement kit from Nissan. Open up the alternator and replace the parts. It's actually very easy and I bet the parts wount cost more then 50 -75 bucks. You can even replace the bearings too. Any bearing supply house can match them up with the numbers stamped on the sides. Total cost of a DIY rebuild should be around 130 bucks.

HitManSE

iTrader: (1)

I cant diagnose something online, I still say OEM is the best bet. I dont the car hooked up to the battery tester, ect... I never claimed to be an electrical wiz here, but something is obivously screwd up. I think a good 1st step would definetly be to get the amp draw test as said above, and if the result is as stated a low charge then njmax's idea would definetly be worth a shot. Good luck

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

whats teh differ between SE and GXE/GLE alternators? they are the same price
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...97&catalogid=1

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=1

ereet

I believe the SE has about 10-15amps more output. Not 100% sure on that, but I remember reading about a discussion on it a while back, and can't remember if it was settled or just a rumor.

700 amps messing up your alternator 3x is MESSED up! I've got a Fosgate 800 and a 1000 (roughly 1900-2000rms) for over 3 years and I've never had a problem. The max amperage draw on the system is nearly 200amps.

Capital15

iTrader: (45)

I went through 3 alternators also...I bought a rebuilt one and finally that one has held up so far...knock on wood.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

I don't think my system is the problem. Aternator #1 died of old age. It started making noise and smelled like it was burning. It died on me so I replaced it. It was on the car for like 8 years.

Alternator #2 sounded like the stator was loose and knocking against the magnets. The bearings are probably shot but it didn't die on me.

Alternator #3 died on me and I was on my way to work this morning and that was all she wrote. The car is at a shop getting a recharge n the battery while I get alternator #2 rebuilt and have the amps pushed up on it.

I'll be out in the rain changing it out.

Thanks for the suggestions and comments people.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

i don't think your stereo can be a factor too. Matt93se has a big system in his car and i believe he's running a stock alternator with no problems.

sweetdaddy

I have a 98 GXE,stock alternator running two amps, a class D sub amp @ 600w and a class A/B (less effifient,more draw) door and rear deck speaker amp @345w. I can definitely see the dash lights dim on heavy bass notes when it's cranked up. The 98 alternators were recalled and the 97's have a bad rep for blowing rectifier diodes too. Running high power stereo amps might not kill your alternator right away, but the added load can't be doing it any good over the long haul. Bearings,brushes and diodes will be stressed much more. Anyone know a good high output Nissan/Infinity or aftermarket replacement? Sounds like the GLE and SE's are at least a step up in output,to power their components. Are 5th gen alts higher output and direct replacement?

foetray

I have a 95 SE and I had to have a boosted alt. custom made for my car. I was running a Punch 250.1 and 400.4 at the time and my voltage was dropping below 8. I added caps and batteries and only fixed the problem after I changed the alt. the specs on your amp should be in the paperwork with somewhere. Look at the amps draw@ tested ohm load and boost your alt. accordingly. Keep in mind if you bridge the amp to double the power you're probably going to just about double the draw as well.(Depending on if you have a D or AB class amp.) But anything over the rated amperage of the factory alt. is going to kill it eventually. As for an aftermarket replacement, I mine came from a place called Ohio Generators. I don't know if they sell directly to the public because the stereo shop I buy my equipment from told me about them and ordered it for me. As far as I know(and from the trouble I had installing it) mine was the first one they built. Works like a champ though and it's 250 amps.

Y2KMaxGXE-R

iTrader: (4)

try to get an OEM one from junkyard, don't get a rebuild one.

CandiMan

iTrader: (1)

A alternator in a properly wired hi-power audio system will/can last longer compared to a lesser powered system with shabby wiring. There's so many variables but the main thing that comes to mind is proper wire gauge. If the wire gauge you're using is too small you will/can put a strain on the alternator, nothing that will be noticable soon after installing the stereo system but it's something that should be considered if you're constantly killing alternators. Also tight clean connections

I'm pushing a 2ch 250amp bridged and a 4ch 400 amp with a cap and I have little to no light diming when the bass is crank up at idle, but I'm also using a 2/0 wire for the amps positive and negative wire which is probably a over kill but it was spare wire I found laying around so why not. My system isn't as powerful as others but I'm using my original alternator with over 133K miles and 10 yrs old.

Deezo feels his dying alternators wasn't due to his stereo system, that's cool but checking the total amperage draw is always a good idea to make sure your current alternator is strong enough to carry the load.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

Well, I got alternator #2 rebuilt for 105 bones and put it on in the rain. I got soaked but I got it in. Come to find out that the alternator #2 is running at 125 amps which surprised me. I thought it was running at 110. The guy I went to rebuilds Nissan alternators all the time so let's see where this one goes. He didn't think my system killed the diode in alternator #3, he thought it was crap from the start. l have another spare to have rebuilt also.

97GLES

iTrader: (5)

do what i did go to nissan and ask for the new 125amp oem alt (the new up-graded one). they are not rebuilt.

deezo

iTrader: (3)

It seems that the rebuilt alternator is a Nissan 125 amp. It has Nissan stamped on the outer casiing too. Alternator 3 isn't a Nissan OEM alternator.

MaximaRider

iTrader: (3)

I don't see how your alternator can't take what your putting to it? I had my alternator replaced last year because of the recall, im running a 1600+watt stereo with HID's and Strobes galore w/ an Optima Yellowtop but even with the stock battery i never had problems. Something seems fishy?

deezo

iTrader: (3)

I may have titled this thread incorrectly being as ****ed as I was but alteranator #3 was just plain garbage. I'm going to rebuild it with Nissan parts when I get around to it.