200 amp alternator is here w/pics
#1
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From: FV, NC
200 amp alternator is here w/pics
Well, I thought it was going to be bigger that the stocker but its actually a bit narrower. The baby built with new with all high powered parts and thick gauge wiring. It even comes with 10 feet of 4 gauge wire to connect the hot lead to the hot post on the battery. Spinning the pully by hand doesn't feel any different than the stocker because of the smaller pully. The only think I may need to do when I install this baby is get a smaller drive belt to compensate for the new pully size. Can't wait to get this bish in but I need a nice day which doesn't seem to be in the near future.
After I get it in, I'll post about the driveability which I know is a big concern for a lot of you guys. Stay tuned.
Side view:
Top view:
The neccessary 2 prong connector for my 97 Cali Spec:
New alt with new hot wire:
After I get it in, I'll post about the driveability which I know is a big concern for a lot of you guys. Stay tuned.
Side view:
Top view:
The neccessary 2 prong connector for my 97 Cali Spec:
New alt with new hot wire:
#6
Most likey it's brass or zinc plated steel. Copper is too soft to be used alone. brass is hard enough for stuff like that, but softens pretty quickly with heat and can cause slipping the belts (copper works as a self-lubing metal, so copper and brass are used in bushings a lot)..
the OEM ones are zinc plated steel, and I'm betting that's what that one is too. it's just a bright yellow zinc plating so it looks like brass. wanna find out? stick a magnet on it. if it sticks, steel. if not, brass.
the OEM ones are zinc plated steel, and I'm betting that's what that one is too. it's just a bright yellow zinc plating so it looks like brass. wanna find out? stick a magnet on it. if it sticks, steel. if not, brass.
#7
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Most likey it's brass or zinc plated steel. Copper is too soft to be used alone. brass is hard enough for stuff like that, but softens pretty quickly with heat and can cause slipping the belts (copper works as a self-lubing metal, so copper and brass are used in bushings a lot)..
the OEM ones are zinc plated steel, and I'm betting that's what that one is too. it's just a bright yellow zinc plating so it looks like brass. wanna find out? stick a magnet on it. if it sticks, steel. if not, brass.
the OEM ones are zinc plated steel, and I'm betting that's what that one is too. it's just a bright yellow zinc plating so it looks like brass. wanna find out? stick a magnet on it. if it sticks, steel. if not, brass.
#9
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From: FV, NC
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
That stock one on the right is the more rare 125 amp, not the usual 110.
#11
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From: FV, NC
Thanks. I probably should have gone with an bright color with the powercoat but it'll due.
Quick question for anyone that can confirm this:
Can our alternators be considered a "one wire" setup or does the connector change things?
Quick question for anyone that can confirm this:
Can our alternators be considered a "one wire" setup or does the connector change things?
#16
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From: FV, NC
Originally Posted by ohannon7
What exactley is this gonna do? Will it help performance directly or is it just supposed to give the electrical system a boost?
Most people think that in order to gain HP is to just add just add boost or add headers, intake, etc; but the number one component of any car is electricity. Yeah, you need gas and oxygen to make an engine run but the electricity has to be there. I don't know if you've ever driven a car with a weak alternator but the overall performance just plain sucks. So to answer your question, yes performance is directly effected by an alternator that is giving every component of the engine maximum current all of the time, no matter what other current draw you may have on in the car when the car is running.
Alternators have a large job to do and are often overlooked as a performance enhancement.
Personally, I didn't want to go with another Hitachi alternator because I keep making them overheat and cook.
#18
Originally Posted by deezo
Good question.
Most people think that in order to gain HP is to just add just add boost or add headers, intake, etc; but the number one component of any car is electricity. Yeah, you need gas and oxygen to make an engine run but the electricity has to be there. I don't know if you've ever driven a car with a weak alternator but the overall performance just plain sucks. So to answer your question, yes performance is directly effected by an alternator that is giving every component of the engine maximun current all of the time, no matter what other current draw you may have on in the car when the car is running.
Alternators have a large job to do and are often overlooked as a performance enhancement.
Personally, I didn't want to go with another Hitachi alternator because I keep making them overheat and cook.
Most people think that in order to gain HP is to just add just add boost or add headers, intake, etc; but the number one component of any car is electricity. Yeah, you need gas and oxygen to make an engine run but the electricity has to be there. I don't know if you've ever driven a car with a weak alternator but the overall performance just plain sucks. So to answer your question, yes performance is directly effected by an alternator that is giving every component of the engine maximun current all of the time, no matter what other current draw you may have on in the car when the car is running.
Alternators have a large job to do and are often overlooked as a performance enhancement.
Personally, I didn't want to go with another Hitachi alternator because I keep making them overheat and cook.
I need one of these too. I have HIDs, a 1500 watt system, 4 tvs, gamecube... and I've been through 2 stock ones. Did you find out what size belt you have to get? Do these guys have a website to order from? Thanx...
Deac
#19
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From: FV, NC
Originally Posted by Deac
I need one of these too. I have HIDs, a 1500 watt system, 4 tvs, gamecube... and I've been through 2 stock ones. Did you find out what size belt you have to get? Do these guys have a website to order from? Thanx...
Deac
Deac
Can-Am Motors
13102 N Florida Ave
Tampa, FL 33612-3474
(813) 935-4199
Speak with Art.
As far as the belt goes, I'm going to have to spend some time at Autozone to size one up. I think I'm going to get a belt that is an inch smaller in diameter.
#22
Originally Posted by deezo
Well, I thought it was going to be bigger that the stocker but its actually a bit narrower. The baby built with new with all high powered parts and thick gauge wiring. It even comes with 10 feet of 4 gauge wire to connect the hot lead to the hot post on the battery. Spinning the pully by hand doesn't feel any different than the stocker because of the smaller pully. The only think I may need to do when I install this baby is get a smaller drive belt to compensate for the new pully size. Can't wait to get this bish in but I need a nice day which doesn't seem to be in the near future.
After I get it in, I'll post about the driveability which I know is a big concern for a lot of you guys. Stay tuned.
Side view:
New alt with new hot wire:
After I get it in, I'll post about the driveability which I know is a big concern for a lot of you guys. Stay tuned.
Side view:
New alt with new hot wire:
#24
Originally Posted by deezo
How many watts is your buddy's alt putting out?
#25
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From: FV, NC
Originally Posted by EZEMaxima
I think you meant AMPS?, but we never did test it. But it does work because before installing it, his voltage would drop down to 12 volts and even to 11 when he has his stereo playing, his air compressor (air suspension) going. And his A/c on. And it got worst at night. But with it installed, his voltage is a constant 13 and up voltage at night. With nothing on at idle the voltage is at 14.8.
I don't know if you saw my other thread but I got it in and the car is running sweet now. My stereo definitely hits harder now. I checked my voltage on the cap's readout and it reads 14.1 to 14.2 when the stereo is on.
#26
so...a few more Qs
Is it an internal or external voltage regulator, adjustable or not, is there an internal or external fan (can't tell from the pics). Do you know what the rectifiers and stators are made of? Amperage output at idle and max amp output at ?rpm.....if you can do this it would be crucial for me and my decision making...oh yeah and did you have to go with a new serpentine belt?...I had a Stinger H/O for my 98 GMC Sierra, ext., non-adjustable voltage reg...set at 12.6V....external fan, and pushed 160 amps at idle 600rpm, 220 at 3K rpm and I had to downsize my serpentine belt or it would slip at times....I wish I could modify it to fit my Max, with an adj. voltage regulator to bump it up to 14.4V....and FYI it seemed to help performance with my Jacobs ignition even though it was larger, much heavier (gold plated rectifiers and stators, etc.) and certainly created more drag on the crank, thoug the twin isolated yellow tops helped, too...sorry, I digress...thanks again deezo....
#29
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Originally Posted by Wish-it-was-AWD
Is it an internal or external voltage regulator, adjustable or not, is there an internal or external fan (can't tell from the pics). Do you know what the rectifiers and stators are made of? Amperage output at idle and max amp output at ?rpm.....if you can do this it would be crucial for me and my decision making...oh yeah and did you have to go with a new serpentine belt?...I had a Stinger H/O for my 98 GMC Sierra, ext., non-adjustable voltage reg...set at 12.6V....external fan, and pushed 160 amps at idle 600rpm, 220 at 3K rpm and I had to downsize my serpentine belt or it would slip at times....I wish I could modify it to fit my Max, with an adj. voltage regulator to bump it up to 14.4V....and FYI it seemed to help performance with my Jacobs ignition even though it was larger, much heavier (gold plated rectifiers and stators, etc.) and certainly created more drag on the crank, thoug the twin isolated yellow tops helped, too...sorry, I digress...thanks again deezo....
#31
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From: FV, NC
Originally Posted by kingrukus
Typically wouldn't a higher output alternator require more power from the motor to drive it, reducing overall whp?
#34
does anyone know what a stock 1993 GXE alternator puts out. I'm about to put in a system with 2 JL 500/1 and I'm worried about killing my alternator. Will this alternator provide enough amps? Can we get a group deal going maybe?
#38
Originally Posted by deezo
That's correct. I got this one from a site on the internet and thought it was the 110amp alt for the GXE Cali spec. The 110amp was what I ordered.
#39
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From: FV, NC
Originally Posted by Muravchik
Where did you get the 125 amp one? Mine's going bad, but I really don't have a need for a 200 amp alternator. Or if yours is still good, I'd buy it