pardon me if this was asked already - i think $11/plug at my local dealer is a bit excessive - are there non nissan spark plugs that can be safely used with 5th gen engines? thanx in advance.

 

Yes. NGK coppers are very cheap and effective. Only use NGK spark plugs in the Maxima. The coppers should run you less than $2 apiece. You can purchase platinums (which are what came stock) however, they do cost in excess of $10 apiece.

Use platinums if:
*You don't want to change your plugs often; the platinums will last for 100K but you should replace them at 60K miles
*You don't mind paying a lot of money

Use coppers if:
*You are running nitrous oxide
*You don't mind changing your spark plugs often (they will last to 50K but you should change them at 30K)
*You don't want to spend a lot of money

~THT

 

I understand the coppers have a colder spark. Does one sacrifice performance with the coppers for the sake of saving money, or is the colder spark a performance enhancement, particlulary for a modded Maxima?

 

Colder spark means less of a chance of predetonation; that's why it's recommended that you run coppers when your "on the juice" so to speak. I currently run coppers even though I'm not using nitrous and I have not noticed any loss of power due to switching from plats.

~THT

 

Where did you get that from? They have a BETTER spark. They have a colder spark if you buy STEP COLDER NGKs.

 

Platinums are better because of their longevity. They last longer. Spark is going to be determined by heat range.

Colder may result in a little less NA performance but will allow you to bump up your FI or NO2 HP without predetonation.

I bought one step hotter plugs from the dealership because that's still within stock range according to the owners manual and I have not ever had a predetonation. I always use 93 octane though. I'm NA.

 

Yes they last longer but like stated above they cost 6x as much $ but only last 2x as long. Unless you're too lazy to change your plugs every 30k miles get the plats.

 

i got my coppers for 1.59 each. even the plat ngks shouldn't run you that much unless you're getting them direct from dealership.

imho, it's not really difficult to change out spark plugs once you did it. just take it nice and easy the first time... changing out spark plugs was my first diy and i noticed immediate gains in mpg afterwards.

 

My dads 2000 SE 5spd runs better on NGK Coppers than it did on the stock NGK platinums.

BKR5E-11

 

Thanx for your answers: Seems that coppers are the way to go presuming you don't mind a bit of extra maintenence - I don't mind, so copper it is.

 

where can one purchase the copper plugs because autozone and advanced auto parts look at me like im a fool when i ask for them all i see is bosche everywhere i go.

 

The jury is still out as far as I'm concerned. I would like to see some more heartfelt endorsements of vehicle performance using the copper plugs. Also, is there any difference in fuel economy. Possibly a dumb question,given the copper plugs would be new - so I guess the question is given new platinum plugs or new copper plugs, which would deliver better fuel economy or would the difference be negligible?

 

My local autozone does not carry them either - try a local rice shop (amongst garbage they usually carry all kinds of spark plugs) or another chain in your area. In NJ we have a&s strauss auto and they carry NGK plugs.

 

http://www.clubplug.net/retail_vpower_ngk.html

I went from plats to copper and have yet to see any negative effects of the switch. My fuel economy is much better (although I attribute it to better driving habits and other modifications).

~THT

 

copper is a better conductor compared to platinum. the reason why people use platinum plugs is platinum is harder and exhibits less wear over time compared to copper plugs...copper is a soft metal. the other metal that is a better conductor than copper is aluminum..but of course that's wayy too soft for a spark plug. how about Iridium plugs? they are slightly better than plats in terms in conductivity and lasts about the same. of course they cost a little more $$.

 

Well then just remember they are dipsh1ts for wanting to put Bosch plugs in a Nissan.

I tend never go into advanced or autozone, I stick with Napa with the occasional trip to Schucks when it's sunday, I'm in a bind and need parts to finish a job.

 

I got my OEM plugs from Courtesy Nissan, not bad on price.

 

i got mine at strauss, but i'd imagine you shouldn't have too much problems finding it. after all, i believe NGK provides spark plugs for about 70%+ of all the OEMs.

 

you would get better performance and in turn, better fuel economy with coppers... you just have to change them out sooner.

 

yeah the $2 ones work fine

 

I just went into Advanced Auto today and picked up a set of 6 NGK V-Power Copper BKR5E-11 plugs. Stock No. 6953. $1.68/ea, $10.08 for 6.

Changing plugs this weekend.

 

Actually silver is the best conductor and copper is second meaning aluminum can't be better than copper.

 

welcome to the dark side?

 

yes you're right...but i know about the spark plug elements.

 

Ok. I am due for a tune-up and I was debating which plug I should get. You guys convince me because I am too lazy (and scare) to do my plugs (I only did it once, which was on my NX2000). I will go pick up the copper one and try to do it myself.

Do I really need a torque ratch? I don't wnat to over-tighten the plugs..

 

Ahh just splurg and go with the big stuff.

 

'the big stuff'
teeheeheehee you think Iridium > Copper

 

FYI, Spark is NOT DETERMINED BY HEAT RANGE.

Spark occurs from the materials used, the voltage applied, the way it's applied, the plug gap (from center conductor to ground strap) etc.

Heat range refers to the spark plug ceramic insulator's ability to draw heat out of the cylinder and into the cylinder heads (a large portion of combustion chamber heat is dissipated by way of the ceramic insulator and through the threads of the plug, and thus I think there are coolant passages in the head very close to the spark plugs).
The heat range is determined by how long the ceramic insulator is, or specifically, how much of it is exposed on the combustion chamber-side of the spark plug. (i.e. how deep the trench around the ceramic insulator goes). The longer the exposed ceramic, the "hotter" the plug (because heat can't conduct through the spark plug as quickly). The shorter the exposed ceramic, the "colder" the plug, since heat can conduct quicker through a short ceramic piece.

This has a lot of influence on plug fouling (i.e. a hot-running plug can burn off excess carbon or oil so that it doesn't become fouled), and since this cooling method is used to cool the combustion chamber after the power stroke, it will determine how hot the chamber is during the intake/compression strokes, and that will influence how likely the engine will detonate/pre-ignite/ping/knock/etc. Hence why a "colder" plug is preferred under nitrous or boost.

I could probably come up with some documentation for this, but this was rattled off the top of my head from past readings...