I need help with a serious brake problem on my 99
#1
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I just did a brake change, and did both front and rear. Here is the problem, I put the car in reverse, and start backing up and as I apply the brakes, there is a "dragging" noise, and the car sounds like its thundering to a stop. It is really odd, and very deep sounding, so I am wondering if anyone has ever heard of this? Mine is a 99 GXE without ABS...
Please help, I am a whole bit concerned
Thanks
Alex
Please help, I am a whole bit concerned
Thanks
Alex
#2
Alex,
Ask Daniel B. Martin! He is a genious! I would have made it home from pheonix in 5 hours but my Mass air flow sensor started tripping b/c of the intake. So i had to play around with it so i could reach 65 mph. hella slow driving home. Thanks for dinner! Dont forget to let me know if you are coming to cali and then I will take you guys out to some really good Vietnamese Cusines. Oh yeah, turn your rotors at checkers, this may or may not solve the problem but they due take out the glaze in your rotors. Thanks
Wayne
Ask Daniel B. Martin! He is a genious! I would have made it home from pheonix in 5 hours but my Mass air flow sensor started tripping b/c of the intake. So i had to play around with it so i could reach 65 mph. hella slow driving home. Thanks for dinner! Dont forget to let me know if you are coming to cali and then I will take you guys out to some really good Vietnamese Cusines. Oh yeah, turn your rotors at checkers, this may or may not solve the problem but they due take out the glaze in your rotors. Thanks
Wayne
#3
A couple of questions: Did you use aftermarket brake pads? Further, did you reuse the OEM shims? Also, do your brakes squeal to a stop?
I don't think the above things will cause your problem, but they might be a factor. Nonetheless, most importantly, when you changed your brakes, did you have your rotors turned? The new pads probably aren't seated correctly due to the fact that the rotors haven't been turned. You should look to get them turned, most brake shops will do them for a reasonable price.
Let us know what it was, if you figure out the problem.
I don't think the above things will cause your problem, but they might be a factor. Nonetheless, most importantly, when you changed your brakes, did you have your rotors turned? The new pads probably aren't seated correctly due to the fact that the rotors haven't been turned. You should look to get them turned, most brake shops will do them for a reasonable price.
Let us know what it was, if you figure out the problem.
#4
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I did not get them turned
They are PBR brake pads/aftermarket street pads.
And yes, they do squeal to a stop when going forward. The rotors look like mirrors now, it is soooo weird, they look shiny and smooth as hell, whereas before, they never looked that "smooth"
??
Alex
And yes, they do squeal to a stop when going forward. The rotors look like mirrors now, it is soooo weird, they look shiny and smooth as hell, whereas before, they never looked that "smooth"
??
Alex
#5
First things first, look into getting your rotors turned. This might help out with your grinding problem. And also, this will increase your brakes effectiveness, as it seems like your brakes are currently glazed.
Second, if you still have the factory shims, USE them. I found it out the hard way when I replaced my brakes. I ended up buying a new factory shim set (~$18 for the front set), as I threw the old hardware away. However, my squeaking disappeared by using the factory shims. Alternatively, you might look at using some product like Disc Quiet ($5/bottle, which is more than adequate), and put it on the backing of the pads (the surfaces of the pad that contacts the brake calipers) to help it absorb any unwanted vibrations in your brakes (i.e. the annoying squealing!).
Second, if you still have the factory shims, USE them. I found it out the hard way when I replaced my brakes. I ended up buying a new factory shim set (~$18 for the front set), as I threw the old hardware away. However, my squeaking disappeared by using the factory shims. Alternatively, you might look at using some product like Disc Quiet ($5/bottle, which is more than adequate), and put it on the backing of the pads (the surfaces of the pad that contacts the brake calipers) to help it absorb any unwanted vibrations in your brakes (i.e. the annoying squealing!).
#6
Emery cloth
Originally posted by Max8MyCash
They are PBR brake pads/aftermarket street pads.
And yes, they do squeal to a stop when going forward. The rotors look like mirrors now, it is soooo weird, they look shiny and smooth as hell, whereas before, they never looked that "smooth"
??
Alex
They are PBR brake pads/aftermarket street pads.
And yes, they do squeal to a stop when going forward. The rotors look like mirrors now, it is soooo weird, they look shiny and smooth as hell, whereas before, they never looked that "smooth"
??
Alex
I suggest you remove those new pads and make sure all the small sheet-metal hardware is in place. Then use a coarse grade of emery cloth to rough up the glazed surface of the rotors. If the face of the friction linings look glazed, give them the emery cloth treatment too.
Look at the leading and trailing edge of the friction materials. They should have a chamfer (beveled edge). If not, use a hand file to "break" those sharp edges.
It is necessary to resurface the rotors if they are warped or deeply grooved. If not, the emery cloth technique is the economical course of action.
#8
Actually a better way to break the glaze on the rotors is to use a disc grinder w/ a 100 grit paper. You can also use this to take the "lip" off the edge of the rotors also. I suspect if you use an emery cloth for the glaze and a file for the "lip", you'll be there forever. Just a thought.
#9
Hmmm...
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Actually a better way to break the glaze on the rotors is to use a disc grinder w/ a 100 grit paper. You can also use this to take the "lip" off the edge of the rotors also. I suspect if you use an emery cloth for the glaze and a file for the "lip", you'll be there forever. Just a thought.
Actually a better way to break the glaze on the rotors is to use a disc grinder w/ a 100 grit paper. You can also use this to take the "lip" off the edge of the rotors also. I suspect if you use an emery cloth for the glaze and a file for the "lip", you'll be there forever. Just a thought.
#10
Disc grinder
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Actually a better way to break the glaze on the rotors is to use a disc grinder w/ a 100 grit paper. You can also use this to take the "lip" off the edge of the rotors also. I suspect if you use an emery cloth for the glaze and a file for the "lip", you'll be there forever. Just a thought.
Actually a better way to break the glaze on the rotors is to use a disc grinder w/ a 100 grit paper. You can also use this to take the "lip" off the edge of the rotors also. I suspect if you use an emery cloth for the glaze and a file for the "lip", you'll be there forever. Just a thought.
#12
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Actually a better way to break the glaze on the rotors is to use a disc grinder w/ a 100 grit paper. You can also use this to take the "lip" off the edge of the rotors also. I suspect if you use an emery cloth for the glaze and a file for the "lip", you'll be there forever. Just a thought.
Actually a better way to break the glaze on the rotors is to use a disc grinder w/ a 100 grit paper. You can also use this to take the "lip" off the edge of the rotors also. I suspect if you use an emery cloth for the glaze and a file for the "lip", you'll be there forever. Just a thought.
#13
Well here is another thing to check for. DOes it feel like the entire car drags? Well on my old 90 Camry, which has brakes set up similar to the Maxima, I forgot to tighten down the lower torque plate bolts. When I was in reverse, the caliper would get pushed up and actually drag against the inner part of the rim. This caused a very violent binding noise, but ONLY in reverse, due to the rotation of the rotor pushing the brake caliper out. Going forwards was alright, cause the caliper still woulda worked (hard to visualize). God forbid I didnt not tighten the top bolt, or it woulda been REALLY bad if I was going forwards. What you can do, is have a friend look outside and watch the calipers when you are in reverse. You can also look at the inner parts of your rim to make sure there are no gouges and make sure the bolts are all there on the brakes themselves. Good luck.
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