Alright guys heres the scenario:

Today I was driving home from work I was having problems getting the shifter into gear, kind of resembled my Hyraulic Hose Issue I had a few months ago. I replaced the hose bled the clutch and its been 'decent' since then, meaning the shifter still at times(once and a while) had trouble going into gears. Well today that problem reoccurs, but seems to be worse. Well I drive home and am thinking I should really re-bleed my clutch to make sure theres no bubbles. Well later in the evening I decided to go out for a drive(still hadn't changed anything) and the shifter was barely going into gears, I had to force it in. Then I decided I better head home, so I then hit a stoplight tried getting the car in gear with no luck. I end up jamming it in 2nd and drive the rest of the way home in second.


When I get home I do some tests and conclude that I can get the car in any gear with the car off but not any gears when its running. So I then check by starting the car with it in 1st gear and it starts but the car moves forward(like an automatic when you let off the brake) while I still have the clutch in. I then investigate the Clutch fluid resorvoir and have a friend pump the clutch and I notice the reservoir and whole Master cylinder move when the clutch is depressed. The fluid looked dark in the resorvoir, so I bled the system and compared the old fluid with the new. I noticed the old fluid looked pretty crystal clear vs. the new is bright yellow.


So after thinking of more possibilities I look at the fork while a friend pushes the clutch in-out. I notice when the clutch is depressed the fork pushes out like it should and when the clutch is disengaged the fork moves back in like it should. I then notice that I can push the fork further inwards with my hand by about 1/4". This is making me think I may have a bent fork? Just throwing that Idea around because of the car being able to move while in gear with the clutch in meaning the clutch is still somewhat engaged.


Anyone have any Ideas? I can answer any questions you may need to know.

Basically the problem is while the car is running it cant go in gear, but it can go in gear with the car off. Also if the car in started in gear the car will roll forward while the clutch pedal is pushed in.

Tranny has- Exedy Stage 1(15,000 miles), STS, and Redline MT-90

I really need some help here guys!

Thanks in advance,

-Nick

 

Anyone? I really need some help..

-Nick

 

maybe the clutch pedal is not adjusted right(the screw thats on the master cyl) and that means that when you step on the clutch, its not moving enough to push the slave cyl all the way so your grinding gears when you try to shift because the clutch is not fully disengaging when you step on the pedal.

 

sounds almost like what happen to me .. turned out to be the throw out bearing .. pull the tranny and check it

 

Alright I've been working on it all morning and I ended up adjusting the master cyliner and I am now able to get in gears with some struggle, but I can drive the car. My clutch has now about 1/4-1/2" of freeplay. The car will still move a little bit while in gear with the clutch in, but I noticed today if I rev the car up to roughly 2500 rpm with the clutch in the car wont move in gear?? As for the shifting I can move it in gears but it does struggle, leading me to believe I need to bleed the clutch.
Any Ideas?

Thanks,

-Nick

 

About the fork, when it is resting, you should not be able to push it in farther than its resting place (like you described). I was able to do this when I realized my hydraulic lines were bad. (Bled and bled a thousand times, and still wouldn't hold pressure). But then again you say the fork goes out like it should, so I am coming to the conclusion you have a verrrrrrrrrrry slitht leak, which will probly get worse as time goes on. Bleed it really good, and if the problem still exists, it is most likely the clutch lines.

 

Alright, I am gonna agree with you ImStockBaby because of the fact that the shifting got even worse tonight. I came home and couldnt get it in gear and all of a sudden bam my clutch fell straight to the floor, no pressure. I did some examining and concluded that the clutch release cylinder took a **** I believe. The C.R.C. was leaking fluid out where the boot is that covers the rod that pushes the fork in and out. I took the boot off and noticed the C.R.C has a little cylinder shaped like pipe that has a rubber seal around it, that was sitting on the little rod that moves the fork. So I am thinking that the C.R.C is shot but I am not 100% sure that is the only problem. I am also thinking I may have blem Clutch release bearing(possibly). Does anyone know what the symptoms of a shot C.R. Bearing are? Any help is greatly appreciated. Also how much play should the fork have? I mean when the rod is disconnected I can obviously move it in and out like normal but I can move it slightly up and down also???
Any questions you may have to help identify problems let me know.
As of now I have no vehicle so I could really use some help here guys!

-Nick

 

My friend had the EXACT same symptoms as you do, plus he also had a leak from the driver's side axle seal. $1500 and a rebuilt trans later, the problem was gone, almost.

 

bump.....1234

 

Go to www.rockauto.com and order a slave cylinder repair kit. Costs about $6

 

Alright I have seemed to have found the problem, I am pretty damn sure at least. I have removed the boot surrounding the fork and have noticed a huge problem. I noticed the fork not sitting on one side of the throw out bearing. It is instead engaging and moving half the throw out bearing onto the pressure plate and the other half is the fork slightly touching the pressure plate. As of know I am unsure of the condition of the pressure plate but it seems okay. I cant see any bent/broken fins on it, I am gonna conclude that the throw out bearing that came with the EXEDY kit took a ****. What do you guys think?

-Nick

 

custommaxima .. what became of your clutch problem?

 

It turned out to be a faulty throw out bearing, which I believe is due to it being an aftermarket TOB. I have heard stories of aftermarket tob's having problems numerous times.

-Nick

 

I was just about tto tell you its the throw out bearing. How do I know, because the EXACT same thing just happened to me, and it was one of the ears on the bearing that broke.