I've got the tools. Is it feasible?

Dave

 

On 5 speed, it's doable with a big breaker bar. I hope you are big guy =) The torque spec on it is like 150lbs. Put the car in gear and crank on the pulley nut. On an auto, better have an impact wrench. It's nearly impossible without one.

 

To break the bolt loose on an auto, put a cheater pipe on your breaker bar and angle it towards the front of the car. Put the socket on the bolt and the cheater pipe on the garage floor. Get in the car and bump the starter - DO NOT LET THE ENGINE START! The starter motor makes more than enough torque to break the bolt loose.

 

Well getting the big nut off is one thing, but getting the pulley off is another. So if you don't have a pulley-puller, forget it. That means DON'T TRY TO PRY THE PULLEY OFF. Impact wrench is the way to go. Even if you have to rent one.

 

I didn't have to use any kind of puller for the pulley; it's not that tight a fit.

 

Instead of taking a chance at not needing it. I would have one handy not matter what. There was no way mine was going to come off w/o a puller. The last thing you want to do to your pulley is bend it or even worse, damage the front seal/or crack the aluminum housing by prying on it.

 

I tried that and the starter made a really loud grinding noise. Got scared and took it to a shop. Paid $90.

 

The VQ is different from the VE in that the VQs crank and pulley are "keyed" and the pulley is not pressed on. The VEs is not keyed and is pressed on which requires a puller.

Dave

 

Dave, have you bought one yet? I haven't put mine on yet as I've recently decided to go SC, I have the seal and both belts brand new too. If interested I'll make you an offer you can'r turn down.

 

huh.

whatever happened to the "DON'T GET THE UDP. IT'S A BAD MOD" - Dave B. i'm used to?

eh. Reguardless,
just jack the car up put the socket on. with a HUGE breaker bar, then lower the car. crank the key twice. don't start the car, then the bolt should be loose enough to take off with a socket driver.

good luck.
i have UDP install tips on my site...

--Cheston

 

It's been awhile, but I thought I remember my pulley having a key when I removed it. IMHO if you have a auto you may not feel a difference (even though I read post from others stating they felt a difference) I installed mine trying to find a cure for the lack of bottom end power in the auto VE, regardless to say it's still there. The search continues, later

 

Candiman the only cure that would help our non making low end power ve engine's move would be a s/c but unfortunalty we don't have that luxury like the later gens dam that sucks.

 

I put the UDP on in like 30min off and 15min on... Just remember to replace the oil seal...

It was way easy...

 

I was checking out a SC on a VQ the other day and comparing to my VE curious to see if it might work. My thoughts on this = no way without a custom mounting bracket, etc. Routing oil supply lines and charge air piping shouldn't be a problem, but the mounting will be custom all the way. Can a V1 SC be rebuild by a DIY's if internals are shot?

 

Cheston-

Upon further inspection of the stock pulley and asking around a little more, I realized that it isn't a harmonic balancer like I thought. My goal is to stay completely NA, so I had to get the UDP.

What's your opinion of the "gain". I'm not expecting a night and day difference at all, but I'm hoping for a little something at the track.....especially something that can get me off the line better in this nasty hot and humid weather we've got right now in KC (90 degree, 70% humidity).

Everyone else:
Did you feel much of a difference? What's you A/C power like?


Dave

 

Question on this. If I had a UDP would the dealer be able to figure that out? I mean under ecu readings, visual?

 

No ill effects whatsoever.


If you get the black one, I doubt they'll notice anything different unless there were looking for it.

 

The UDP is i think. one of the best and simple mods for the NA route..

as for A/C power difference, you can tell when you turn it on, that it takes longer for the fan to turn on, (you can actually HEAR the valves slowly opening when at idle) but when you're on the freeway and have the a/c on. cooling happens at the same rate as w/o the UDP.

you'll also notice the difference in the steering input. you'll have to crank the wheel over a bit harder when you're moving slow cuz the powersteering is slightly affected also.

as for driveablility wise. the car revs faster than normal, and also engine brakes faster too. i felt it. and i think it will significantly help your 1/4 mile times when you get up in the power band.. but that's just my opinion. you'll have to experience it yourself to really gauge the worthiness of it.

also. the Gforce ECU group buy #2 is on again.
its available if you want more power, and stay NA. i wont say anything if you have changed your mind about it. its really a good product and we're planning on doing an all Drag version of the ecu within the next few weeks.. Why? because when under WOT and heavy load, ONLY THE ECU is what controls the fuel mapping and ignition. nothing else matters..

but you already knew that. right dave?
--Cheston

 

If they look hard enough, Yes. Just don't get the red, blue, green..etc. Get a black one, but UDP does have laser etched writings on the side.

 

I also felt a good improvement in low end and the a/c does seem to take a little longer to cool down, but the steering seems the same to me but that may be due to the stockers still in my car... Also I do now notice with my PIAA's that when at idle they will dim ever so slightly...


IMHO I believe it to be a really good mod... but hell it is so simple to install (5spd)!
And like cheston said you would have to be the judge...

 

I've got a brand new black one for sale for 150 to your door. I ordered it, then decided to go SC in which case I won't be able to use both.

 

Or if you want it to be stealthy you can get it powdercoated flat black....

 

I might be interested. Do you have the belts too?