Shingles

Since my rotor is warped AGAIN in a little less than 20k miles, I've been looking at replacements. I talked to Brian at Fastbrakes and he told me he can get front slotted for $60 each and rear slotted for $65. Donno why the rear is more, but it is.

So if you are interested, email him. BTW these have about 6 slots on them per side.

-Shing

Synki

Shing-

Can you give me his e-mail addy or any extra info would be great. Its time for new rotors myself. What brand are these? Are these the same size as the orig rotors?

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

any news about the bigger rotor upgrade?

monty365

If you are still working on the rotor upgrade with the standard calipers on a bracket I am very interested in hearing details. Thanks for the effort.

emax02

iTrader: (1)

I think Groupbuycenter is selling Brembo crossed drilled rotors for $50 each, you may want to cheack it out.

Shingles

These are original size and none group buy price. The nice thing about that is 1) it's from someone that I will personally vouche for in being trust worthy and 2) it's not group buy.

He's email addy is fastbrake@hotmail.com.

As for the bigger brake with stock calipers, still working on that one.

-Shing

maximax

>> Emax95

I tried to search Groupbuycenter but cannot find it, could you tell me the address (specific groupbuy item)

Thanks in advance.

I30CeFiRo

If you put on slotted brakes, does it screw up the ABS braking in anyway?

TexMaximum

I'm interested in crossed drilled rotors, where can I get these? Should help transfer heat better then stock, and I think they look better then slotted.

Shingles

Xdrilled and slotted rotors are for looks mostly. It was not designed to help transfer heat. www.baer.com... they've been doing brakes for a LONG time, read the FAQ.

No, slots won't effect things in anyway... it's mainly for looks.

-Shing

TexMaximum

cross drilled DO transfer more heat away from the rotors, whats the matter with you Shing?

DA-MAX

iTrader: (10)

aren't the chances of x-drills cracking extremely more likely than any other type of rotor? why is that? I heard you have to take all types of precautions and stuff, and they are not really suggested for commuter driving, but more for autocross and racing...

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

is wrong with him. Follow the link he gave you for more info:

http://www.baer.com/faq.shtm

Basically, cross-drilling removes mass which reduces heat transfer. Less mass means less metal to take away the heat produced by friction from braking. This is why cross-drilled rotors are more prone to cracking, and why drilled holes have to be chamfered and why these rotors need to be zinc washed to prevent rust oxidation of the rest of the metal in the rotor, etc.....

I've tried slotted, cross-drilled/slotted, and blank rotor setups. UNLESS IT'S COSMETIC, blank rotors will do just as good of a job. Stainless steel brake lines would be a much wiser upgrade from a pedal feel/brake performance standpoint.

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Bill... you're right about the less mass to ABSORB the heat generated by heavy braking so as to not overheat but IIRC it's SURFACE AREA that gives off the heat for the cooling effect. Crossdrilling will increase surface area to increase cooling down but definitely not as efficiently as having larger vents (radial or spiral), ie thicker rotors.

Crossdrilling DOES tend to crack more than others... primarily due to having more weakers spots (edges) for cracks to start due to uneven or 'traumatic' heating/cooling. But if the holes are chamfered/countersunk then this will 'minimize' the possibility of such... as does properly taking care of them. But even in the best case scenario... regular rotors are less likely to crack... given the same make/blank it's made from...

TexMaximum

Cross drilled rotors DO transfer more heat, ask most SCCA members. Not only that, those that have them, like a local RX-7 club said it helped them with brake fade under hard use? Baer is saying simply crossdrilling stock rotors doesn't see any real perfomance increase, that is why they developed EradiSpeed.

They are also saying they only use cross drilled for visual in their lineup, but with the Eradispeed you get the best of both worlds.

Shingles

There's nothing wrong with me. What's wrong with you? I just choose not to listen to some wanna be racer. "I swear I can stop 35 ft shorter from 0-60 since these x-drilled rotors".

FYI, I've done a little racing myself, SCCA, road race etc. Get slots and x-drilled for looks. Get it thinking you are improving braking performance, good luck to you and the car infront of you.

BTW, Baer's been building brakes for a while now. I think I'd much rather trust them than "I heard from this or that".

Incase you are too lazy to go, from Bear.

"Q: I don’t want to spend the money for a complete brake upgrade. Do you offer cross drilled rotors to work with my factory brakes?

Yes. Although there are some companies which sell cross-drilled rotors as an actual performance upgrade, in our extensive testing we have seen no improvement to be had by simply crossdrilling stock rotors. This is why Baer has developed EradiSpeed™ rotor upgrades for a variety of applications. Although it is true the crossdrilling, the slotting, or for that matter the zinc surface washing, are cosmetic enhancements, EradiSpeed™ rotor packages also feature rotors with thicker cheeks to provide more heat sink capacity in the fire path of the rotor. Also, they all feature directional vanes for greater pumping efficiency, as well as a two-piece design where the hat, or hub/hat section of the rotor is CNC machined from a solid billet of aluminum and is then fixed to the rotor ring using National Aviation Standard (NAS) stainless hardware. In other words, the EradiSpeed™ is much more than just the most visually appealing direct replacement rotor, it is the only upgrade of its type which can actually deliver the benefits of greater heat absorption, increased durability and lighter total weight.

In racing, crossdrilling was designed to alleviate a problem known as out-gassing. In some of the older pad compounds, when the pads reached elevated temperatures consistent with performance or racing use, the binder (that’s the material that holds the friction material in place) boiled off, producing a gas. This gas would build up between the rotor and the brake pad, effectively keeping the pad from directly contacting the rotor. The holes provide a relief path for these gasses, as do slots, so the pad can once again contact the rotor. Crossdrilling was NOT designed to facilitate cooling.

Although Baer offers crossdrilling as an option on their systems, it is offered as a cosmetic option only. However, with an EradiSpeed™ rotor upgrade, unlike a cosmetically altered stock replacement rotor, you will benefit from improved durability, greater heat sink capacity, lighter total weight and the visual excitement of a 2-piece, aluminum centered, crossdrilled, slotted and zinc washed appearance."


-Shing

TexMaximum

Wow, somebody has an attitude. Anyhow, I think they look good, and it is still my opinion they provide marginally greater fade resistance then stock rotors and other benefits. That's my opinion and of many others, so be it. And they are not all wanna be racers. Did I say it will make you stop on the dime, NO. Thanks for trying to insult my intelligence.


Also, have you know, I've already read bears site, know of their products (Had a brake kit on a camaro), and I am far from lazy.

In fact, if you were not so lazy, you see that information from my previous post already contained info that you had cut and pasted from their site. Read it again, or stop arguning, and making your opinion and interpentation of posted info as fact.


I igree most well cross drilled rotors are CAD designed for a positive effect, not just looks. cross-drilled or slotted brake rotors both offer certain advantages depending on the user's vehicle, driving style and individual needs. I agree that slotted are less, They will provide cooler brake temperatures as a result of dissipating the gasses burning off the brake pads. This "de-gassing" or "out-gassing" will keep the brake pads in contact with the brake rotor resulting in less brake fade after repeated stops.

Both types of brake rotors will promote improved wet weather braking as water is swept between pad and rotor as well, so thats another benefit.

Some enthusiasts prefer slots because they feel the rotor maintains a higher level of structural integrity as opposed to drilling the same brake rotor.

TexMaximum

The major trade off for a slotted rotor is shorter life. When slotting only the rotor surface is machined. As the slot passes under the brake pad, it provides an area for the gasses burning off the brake pad to expand into and dissipate, keeping the brake pad in contact with the rotor. As the brake rotor wears so will the slot, providing less area for gas expansion, and less of a grove for your "looks".


I also agree with Churger on some of his point. This is why Baer says simply drilling stock rotors won't help much if any. Less material, less heat dispension capabilities. The best of both worlds is a thicker, properly veined cross drilled rotor. Which baer happens to make.

Shingles

why would I not have an attitude? You come on with "what's your problem?" What is *your* problem? I donno about you, but when someone responds in that manner, sure doesn't seem like something I would respond relatively clam to.

X-drilling was developed for old asbestos pads that out gassed. Pads these days do not out gas like old pads did. Slotting was developed for the fact that x-drilling tend to crack rotors.

These days most companys that cast holes into rotors do it for weight savings as much as anything else.

Shingles

I thought your position was that x-drilling rotors helped cooling? But in this post, you say that drilling = less material, less heat disappation capabilities?

BTW, let's say x-drilling cools better... without proper cooling equipement, ie brake ducts, it won't buy you anything. But then, with brake ducts, a properly designed solid rotor without drilling will cool just fine.

In order to "do it right", no drilling should take place. Holes should be built into the casting.

Anyways, back to the topic of this thread, Brian at Fastbrakes can obtain 4th gen maxima slotted rotors for $60 in front and $65 in the rear. www.fastbrakes.com

That's all...

thanks,
-Shing

xHypex

iTrader: (1)

Hey Shing do you have any idea how long it'll be before we can find a bigger rotor that fits with a stock caliper? I'd like to get some increase in braking power, but would also like the looks of slotted/xdrilled rotors. I'd be willing to wait a few months if you think the new rotors will be ready by then, but if it's longer I'll just get what's available now. I'll sit it out if it's close, but I'd rather not sit around like people are for KYB AGXs
-hype

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

For street use, I don't see how x-drilled rotors benefit at all. Especially when modern brake pads don't outgass(like Shing states) anymore. As Tex also mentioned, x-drilled cannot be re-surfaced so they are basicly "one use only" rotors. It appears that x-drilled rotors are VERY suceptible to cracking around the drilled areas. Also consider that for two rotors of the same weight(one drilled, other not drilled), the drilled rotor gives up too much heat absorption capability to make it worth while.

For street use, the most important factor you want for a rotor, is the capability for the car to stop ONCE, right away. That means you want that rotor to be able to absorb heat and disapate it in a controlled fashion. That means you want a rotor with enough mass, not a rotor w/ a bunch of holes it it.

In a race car, since you are on the brakes alot, you need a rotor that dissapates heat as fast as possible. That means drilled rotors, brake vents etc.... Also consider race cars change the rotors all the time(ie.. after every race), so rotor life and stress crackes are not as a big of factor. Race rotors only have to last one race, street rotors must last(or should last) at least 30-40k or more. (unless your Bill ) It's up to you, if you want to look good and replace your rotors all the time just for the sake of looking good, go ahead. Just don't complain when you do. I mean I think we have established that the stock 4-gen maxima brakes are already warp prone becuase of their size or thickness. Why use a rotor that has LESS mass and has more potential for cracks? The benefits don't even come close to the dissadvantages(IMHO)

Note: This doesn't necessarily apply to carbon fiber brake rotors so don't go there. Also for those of you that have big brake kits, I suspect the increased relative rotor diameter(vs stock maxima) and maybe thicker size(I hope??), increases rotor life and durability. The above discussion is mostly for maxima owners wondering about x-drilled for their stock calipers and rotor size.

TexMaximum

I said I agree with baer that simply removing mass doesn't help, and then stated:

"The best of both worlds is a thicker, properly veined cross drilled rotor" The main point Baer is trying to make, is that a stock rotor, that is then cross drilled is not going to help, and that is why they offer the eradispeed system.

So you have looks, better wet braking, and I believe better cooling if its a thicker disk with the cross drilled rotors. I think some are just skimming my posts or I am not explaining myself well enough.

Black VQ

I want some ceramic rotors like on the new Porsche 911 GT2! How much for some of those puppies, Shing?

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

I'll laugh with you on that one.



I'm obviously too stupid to know how to put brakes on, so why should I ever be surprised at my brake woes?

On a positive note, I'm up to 8k on the new setup.....no warpage. Life is good.