Looks as if the I30T is in need of a new muffler. Now looking at the car, the inlet pipe of the muffler is flanged and meets the flanged end of the “rear exhaust tube” (FSM term). The two flanges are bolted together which leads me to my question: are these fasteners studs as there aren’t any heads on them and if studs, are they welded into the mid pipe flange? Reason I am asking is they are rusted up badly (6 New England winters) and I will have to cut them off, so I will have to replace them somehow. Again, are they studs that are welded into the front flange? Any words of wisdom will be appreciated.

 

You are correct, they are studs that are welded to the b-pipe. When I did my exhaust, I had a local muffler shop break the nuts loose and I did the rest of the install myself.

 

THT,

Thanks for the quick reply. Now I have used some good penetrating oil on them 3 or 4 times over the last week then today took a wire brushed them. I then put a 6 point 1/2 inch drive socket on one of the bolts. Nothing. Got a breaker bar, nothing. Just curious what the shop did to free them up? Oh, what did they charge you?

 

Air tools did the trick. Charged me $10. I did what you tried and I even tried using a propane torch to heat them up. I'd hold the torch on the nuts until they were red hot, hit them with a hammer and see some rust fall off to no avail. I gave up, called a shop and half an hour later (including transit), I was back home, installing my SP2. I too know what a ***** Mother Nature can be in the winter as midwest winters aren't kind.

 

Damn, I was going for the propane for my next trick. And yes, mother nature, what a beast. Living along the coast in Maine adds the touch of salt to the mix. It sucks but other than six months of winter and short summers.....what's there to complain about.

Now if air tools will do the trick, got 'em. The bigger issue is just lying on my back in the driveway trying not to get the spray of flying rust particles in the eyes! I know damn well that I will end up snapping one of them, hence the question about cutting them and then using a bolt to fasten versus the studs. Man, 10 bucks is good trade if I can find a shop to do it. Looks like I gotta get on the phone.

Thanks again for the insight.

 

i broke the nuts off, removed the muffler, drilled the remaining bolts out, and replaced with all new hardware. Yea through all those maine winters! i did the same with the 4 cat bolts also.

 

JSutter, I have seen your bio with Portland, ME before, I live up in Yarmouth. So you drilled out the two studs, how tough was that? In my optimism, I was thinking if I broke/cut the studs, I could pound them back through, breaking the welds? Any chance, or best to drill out?

 

i never tried to pound them out. it seemed like they were welded in, though they may be just really rusty and pressed in like wheel studs. when i first removed my muffler on my 96 it came off no problem with just a socket and ratchet). that was about 2 years ago. But when I tried to remove the muffler on my 98 (same socket and ratchet idea) they just broke. There was not much bolt left and since I dont have a punch I never even tried. I just got my drill out and used a nice sharp bit. It took some time but they drilled out just fine. I bought new nuts, bolts, and washers at the local auto parts store.

Upon reinstall I had the hardest time getting a leak proof seal. I used the OEM crush ring and a regular exhaust gasket to get a good seal. The mating surfaces of the stock flanges are pretty rusted and beat up. The best choise for a new gasket is hi temp RTV. That will ensure a leak free gasket.

 

Interesting about having a tough time getting a good seal. This was one worry about pounding on the flange, getting it out of shape and not being able to seat properly. So they use a crush washer between the two flanges, I was curious about that. Now you say you used both the crush ring and an exhaust gasket and still had problems. Was this with the RTV? Or are you suggesting just using hi-temp RTV alone?

 

Yes the flanges bend easy, i bent them with the tightening of the bolts to get a seal. From the factory there is a single crush ring. My flanges are so rusted (and now bent) that i had to use another gasket. I have yet to try the RTV but many have used it with great results. I say use just the RTV.

 

Roger that and thanks for the tip, certainly will save on the headache factor!!