Need some hardcore ideas on extreme weight reduction
#41
home depot mod: take off all the doors and put plastic sheeting with duct tape on your car. plastic sheeting is much lighter than lexan for the windows.
remove the fenders, do a 5spd conversion, lightweight flywheel, and do a 3.5 swap.
remove the fenders, do a 5spd conversion, lightweight flywheel, and do a 3.5 swap.
#42
i totally wish i bought an evo cuz i could change the blow off valve and tell kids i tuned it myself. this is the most ridiculous thread i've seen in quite a while. stop trying to gut your grocery getter. go buy a civic.
#45
Originally Posted by Dubbya
Remove the front sway bar
#46
Originally Posted by 03on18s
i totally wish i bought an evo cuz i could change the blow off valve and tell kids i tuned it myself. this is the most ridiculous thread i've seen in quite a while. stop trying to gut your grocery getter. go buy a civic.
To each his own...
Good luck with the further weight reduction! I've driven Krismax's car and it blows away the couple sc and turbo'ed maxes I've sat in below 3000k At least on the street with the butt dyno. His car is around 2500 if I recall and has a 3.5 swap with '01 tranny.
Downside is that it's pretty loud inside though not obnoxiously so.
People underestimate weight reduction...
#48
#49
You want a hardcore idea?
Remove your rear rotors/calipers. There's 25 lbs right there. And it's rotating mass too (the rotors anyway). That will help ya!
Not sure if someone said this, but when you go to the track, put two spare tires on the rear.
Remove your rear rotors/calipers. There's 25 lbs right there. And it's rotating mass too (the rotors anyway). That will help ya!
Not sure if someone said this, but when you go to the track, put two spare tires on the rear.
#50
Originally Posted by The Wizard
You want a hardcore idea?
Remove your rear rotors/calipers. There's 25 lbs right there. And it's rotating mass too (the rotors anyway). That will help ya!
Not sure if someone said this, but when you go to the track, put two spare tires on the rear.
Remove your rear rotors/calipers. There's 25 lbs right there. And it's rotating mass too (the rotors anyway). That will help ya!
Not sure if someone said this, but when you go to the track, put two spare tires on the rear.
#51
Originally Posted by eckohb
who cares? He's got another Maxima, let him have fun with the one not worth much anymore. Jeez la weez
I don't know what else to add seems like you've done just about everything possible. I'd suggest racing seat and gut the entire interior if you're gonna go all out.
Would be interesting to see what kind of 1/4 mile time you will get out of all this. I definetly think it will be low 14s. Swap a 5spd on and be even lighter and faster!!
#52
I have not had much time to work on this lately. I plan to race it saturday the 8th if the weather holds out and the races don't get cancled.I have a bad tps my car doesn't shift and bogs off the line.I'm also getting codes for it. I also have to change an o2 sensor and put a thermostat in.I'm hoping for a 13.9 I have done a few runs with friends and one said he raced an sti the night before and won well it wasn't even a race between me and him. It's getting to be no one wants to race me.
#53
I'm surprised no one has said that yet, but how about removing all the seatbelts except for the drivers? I'm keeping full interior on my max but I do have my rear seatbelts removed since I usually dont have more than 1 other person in my max at a time
#54
I don't think anyone has mentioned replacing your entire air intake system with a WAI.
Also, don't just replace your wheels/tires with smaller ones, but shave the tread down too.
More extreme ideas:
Strip all the paint and undercoating off. The ensuing rust will further lighten your car.
To accelerate the process, grind down your unibody until it barely supports itself.
Wherever you find nuts and bolts, remove them and weld/epoxy the spot (yes, wheels too).
Remove all upholstery. Spray paint the underlying foam to retain the stock look.
Replace your starter with a hand crank.
Helium is your friend. Fill your tires, NOS bottle, trunk, cabin, and lungs with it.
Stuff you can do to yourself:
Drive naked.
Go on a supermodel diet (your goal is to weigh 90lbs or less).
Dehydrate yourself.
Take a dump (laxatives help with this, the weight loss, and dehydration too).
Shave all the hair from your body (or just wait for it to fall out).
Donate blood (and other bodily fluids).
Get surgery to remove the exta skin you'll get after your weight loss.
At the same time, consider if you really need both lungs, kidneys, nuts, etc.
You can also live without your spleen, tonsils, teeth, toes, most of your liver and digestive tract, etc.
Reconsider if you really need your other nut. Be realistic.
Couple extra holes here and there might help too.
That's all I can really think of for now. I'll let you know if I come up with any more.
Also, don't just replace your wheels/tires with smaller ones, but shave the tread down too.
More extreme ideas:
Strip all the paint and undercoating off. The ensuing rust will further lighten your car.
To accelerate the process, grind down your unibody until it barely supports itself.
Wherever you find nuts and bolts, remove them and weld/epoxy the spot (yes, wheels too).
Remove all upholstery. Spray paint the underlying foam to retain the stock look.
Replace your starter with a hand crank.
Helium is your friend. Fill your tires, NOS bottle, trunk, cabin, and lungs with it.
Stuff you can do to yourself:
Drive naked.
Go on a supermodel diet (your goal is to weigh 90lbs or less).
Dehydrate yourself.
Take a dump (laxatives help with this, the weight loss, and dehydration too).
Shave all the hair from your body (or just wait for it to fall out).
Donate blood (and other bodily fluids).
Get surgery to remove the exta skin you'll get after your weight loss.
At the same time, consider if you really need both lungs, kidneys, nuts, etc.
You can also live without your spleen, tonsils, teeth, toes, most of your liver and digestive tract, etc.
Reconsider if you really need your other nut. Be realistic.
Couple extra holes here and there might help too.
That's all I can really think of for now. I'll let you know if I come up with any more.
#55
Originally Posted by NismoMax80
Atkins
did you search? I read some extensive threads and links about weight. Keep the car on E and 1 gallon of fuel on hand for that 1/4 mile?
hear that cf milk crate seat mod shaves a few.
(I think your car is anorexic, I'm contacting a support group)
did you search? I read some extensive threads and links about weight. Keep the car on E and 1 gallon of fuel on hand for that 1/4 mile?
hear that cf milk crate seat mod shaves a few.
(I think your car is anorexic, I'm contacting a support group)
#56
Well my car weighed in at about 2400 i took some more stuff out and put other things back in so it weighs around there no more than 2500 though.temp was 59.9 so it was a little cold.
Best 60ft 2.261
Best mph 97.44
Best 1/4 14.441
My best run was the 14.441@97.39 with a 2.348 60ft
So judging by my trap speed i should have been faster if i could have gotten traction.
Best 60ft 2.261
Best mph 97.44
Best 1/4 14.441
My best run was the 14.441@97.39 with a 2.348 60ft
So judging by my trap speed i should have been faster if i could have gotten traction.
#58
Iam very happy about this looks like some people were wrong.
what do MOST autos get with these mods 15.4?he gained a second it seems and around 5 mph. and think of this a 2.34 60ft even with a 5 speed most would be lucky to run 14.9 with that. and those mods.
the WR helped alot
what do MOST autos get with these mods 15.4?he gained a second it seems and around 5 mph. and think of this a 2.34 60ft even with a 5 speed most would be lucky to run 14.9 with that. and those mods.
the WR helped alot
#59
Originally Posted by 03on18s
can i just ask why you're doing this? 100lbs = 1/10th of a sec off 1/4 mile time.
so the only things i attempt to control to "maintain" the Weight is how much gas i've got in my tank, other people in the car, big thigns like that.
#60
Originally Posted by chillin014
yeah i heard on tv the same thing. some show "horsepower"
so the only things i attempt to control to "maintain" the Weight is how much gas i've got in my tank, other people in the car, big thigns like that.
so the only things i attempt to control to "maintain" the Weight is how much gas i've got in my tank, other people in the car, big thigns like that.
If you want to read the article i believe its on import tuners website its about a year old or more.
#61
Originally Posted by krismax
that 100lb for 1 tenth is BS i have a mag that says thats a guess every car they say even with the same weight will gain a diff amount of time from loosing a 100lbs . for example one car can loose 2 tenths from 100lbs another maybe only 1 tenth or less . scientifically they said the more hp a car has and the lighter it gets the more the gains.
If you want to read the article i believe its on import tuners website its about a year old or more.
If you want to read the article i believe its on import tuners website its about a year old or more.
i bought forged wheels, but they were 17's and i dont think they were much lighter maybe a pound per wheel which i read can be like 8 pounds per wheel? anyway....does anyone know if a greddysp2 ss catback weighs more than the stock catback?
#62
Originally Posted by chillin014
ehhh, i like my interior. im just saying what i saw on tv. As long as when i upgrade parts i'm not ADDING weight, i'm okay with it.
i bought forged wheels, but they were 17's and i dont think they were much lighter maybe a pound per wheel which i read can be like 8 pounds per wheel? anyway....does anyone know if a greddysp2 ss catback weighs more than the stock catback?
i bought forged wheels, but they were 17's and i dont think they were much lighter maybe a pound per wheel which i read can be like 8 pounds per wheel? anyway....does anyone know if a greddysp2 ss catback weighs more than the stock catback?
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