Sooooo close getting my Ypipe on!
#1
but the shop didnt have the right socket that nissan uses to bolt the pipe to the manifold. I went to a speed shop owned my a racing team which usually work on hondas so they dont have some of the sizes that nissan uses so maybe I'll have my pipe on in a few days. The guy told me that the bold was in a star shaped pattern that required a certain socket- what type of socket pattern is he talking about?
#2
Originally posted by Nismo
but the shop didnt have the right socket that nissan uses to bolt the pipe to the manifold. I went to a speed shop owned my a racing team which usually work on hondas so they dont have some of the sizes that nissan uses so maybe I'll have my pipe on in a few days. The guy told me that the bold was in a star shaped pattern that required a certain socket- what type of socket pattern is he talking about?
but the shop didnt have the right socket that nissan uses to bolt the pipe to the manifold. I went to a speed shop owned my a racing team which usually work on hondas so they dont have some of the sizes that nissan uses so maybe I'll have my pipe on in a few days. The guy told me that the bold was in a star shaped pattern that required a certain socket- what type of socket pattern is he talking about?
#4
yes Thats what I noticed when I took a peek under the car. I think that the mechanic saw the odd "star shaped" bolt and thought it was part of the nut or something. I guess Ill just get a deeper socket and take it to him or something. thanks.
#6
Originally posted by Nismo
yes Thats what I noticed when I took a peek under the car. I think that the mechanic saw the odd "star shaped" bolt and thought it was part of the nut or something. I guess Ill just get a deeper socket and take it to him or something. thanks.
yes Thats what I noticed when I took a peek under the car. I think that the mechanic saw the odd "star shaped" bolt and thought it was part of the nut or something. I guess Ill just get a deeper socket and take it to him or something. thanks.
Did any of you guys have any problems at all? Do you know of any reason why I can't do it with just jack stands?
#8
Originally posted by bobl
You should be able to do it yourself if you have a floor jack and jack stands. I have my Y-Pipe sitting here and I'll probably install it today. Just gotta get dressed, jack the thing up, remove the old one, bolt up the new one. I'm hoping there's no problems removing the sensors and the bolts on the original.
Did any of you guys have any problems at all? Do you know of any reason why I can't do it with just jack stands?
You should be able to do it yourself if you have a floor jack and jack stands. I have my Y-Pipe sitting here and I'll probably install it today. Just gotta get dressed, jack the thing up, remove the old one, bolt up the new one. I'm hoping there's no problems removing the sensors and the bolts on the original.
Did any of you guys have any problems at all? Do you know of any reason why I can't do it with just jack stands?
Failure!
The failure had nothing to do with the new Y-Pipe. It had to do with several bolts not cooperating. I got all the header bolts off. One of the header studs came out instead of the bolt coming off the stud but that's ok and can be fixed.
The main problem was the bolts to the cat. They are rusted like a ****. There's no way anybody is going to get those bolts off unless they are cut off and the flanges around them are also rusted. So, I'm figureing I need to order the Random Cat and replace the cat at the same time I replace the Y-Pipe. Ugh.
A couple of things to realize if you're planning on doing your own Y-Pipe swap:
1. If you have a '97 or older and there's never been any exhaust work done, don't expect the bolts to come off easy at all. In fact, they may not even come off at all!
2. The front header bolts are easy to get to with a 10" extension on a 14mm rachet. Doesn't mean they'll come off easy though. Have a can of WD40 available.
3. The rear header bolts are a *****! you will need a universal joint for your ratchet to get to them and even then..UGH!
4. Front oxygen sensor is near impossible to take off while Y-Pipe is on the car. I suggest disconnecting the wire at the plug on the top of the engine, removing the ties and just let it come out with the Y-Pipe.. then worry about removing it from the old Y-Pipe away from the car.
5. Cat bolts may be totally rusted solid if you have a '97 or older with no previous exhaust work done.
6. Remove the cat shield to make it easier to get to the cat bolts.
7. Prepare yourself for the cat shield bolts to shear off as two of mine did.
8. Be prepared for some of the header studs to come out instead of the bolt coming off the stud.
My advice is to check out your bolts if you have a chance before you do the job. In some cases, they may prevent you from being able to easily just install the Y-Pipe.
If you don't have the correct tools or feel your bolts may be rusted on, just take it to a shop.
I'm off to order the Random Cat now..
#9
Originally posted by bobl
4. Front oxygen sensor is near impossible to take off while Y-Pipe is on the car. I suggest disconnecting the wire at the plug on the top of the engine, removing the ties and just let it come out with the Y-Pipe.. then worry about removing it from the old Y-Pipe away from the car.
4. Front oxygen sensor is near impossible to take off while Y-Pipe is on the car. I suggest disconnecting the wire at the plug on the top of the engine, removing the ties and just let it come out with the Y-Pipe.. then worry about removing it from the old Y-Pipe away from the car.
There is a special socket that is designed for O2 sensors, with that it's a piece of cake. Just remember to leave it twisted when you reinstall into the new Y-pipe.
If you attempt it yourself, get Liquid wrench or WD-40 and don't be afraid to use it. If you have a torch handy, that helps alot. You can get a small handheld propane torch from home depot or sears, etc for about $25
#10
Originally posted by breaux124
Getting the clips off for the O2 sensor wire is a Pain in the a$$.
There is a special socket that is designed for O2 sensors, with that it's a piece of cake. Just remember to leave it twisted when you reinstall into the new Y-pipe.
If you attempt it yourself, get Liquid wrench or WD-40 and don't be afraid to use it. If you have a torch handy, that helps alot. You can get a small handheld propane torch from home depot or sears, etc for about $25
Getting the clips off for the O2 sensor wire is a Pain in the a$$.
There is a special socket that is designed for O2 sensors, with that it's a piece of cake. Just remember to leave it twisted when you reinstall into the new Y-pipe.
If you attempt it yourself, get Liquid wrench or WD-40 and don't be afraid to use it. If you have a torch handy, that helps alot. You can get a small handheld propane torch from home depot or sears, etc for about $25
#11
yes installing this thing was a real B!TCH but I saw the fruits of my labor as soon as I started the car and hit the gas pedal. it sucked how the hydraulic I had did not jack the car up that much so I had like a foot and a half of room to work with. I contorted my body into positions I never thought were possible trying to find the leverage I needed to get those b!tch a$$ rusty bolts off. yes, liquid wrench and/or WD40 is essential on anything that is not brand new... soak it up for at least 30 mins beforehand. also, the cattman ss pipe i got did not fit on easy. its not just unbolt and then bolt on, it took some manhandling to get the thing on. fyi before anyone else spends a few hours getting frustrated at a pipe that does not exactly fit, make sure you bolt the cat side on first, and then the second set of downpipe bolts ALL the way. the first set of 3 holes nearest to the engine that would not and could not line up with the bolts before should then pop right on as the pressure from the middle of the pipe lines it up and forces them through.
#12
Originally posted by bobl
Hmm.. I have a torch.. how's that help? I heat up the bolts and they're easier to turn even when rusted?
Hmm.. I have a torch.. how's that help? I heat up the bolts and they're easier to turn even when rusted?
I once had issues with replacing a brake line, I couldn't get it loose. I then heated it with a torch for about 20seconds and the bolt came right off.
#13
Originally posted by breaux124
Correct. The heat helps the metal to expand so the bolt will loosen off of the stud.
I once had issues with replacing a brake line, I couldn't get it loose. I then heated it with a torch for about 20seconds and the bolt came right off.
Correct. The heat helps the metal to expand so the bolt will loosen off of the stud.
I once had issues with replacing a brake line, I couldn't get it loose. I then heated it with a torch for about 20seconds and the bolt came right off.
You have any thoughts on this? Should I bolt the Y-Pipe and the cat together and then put it on or put the cat on the back portion of the exhaust and then bolt the Y-Pipe on?
#14
get PB blaster
The best stuff to use in order to loosen rusted bolts is "PB Blaster." WD-40 is a lubricant and not a good loosener....get a can of PB, it is available at any Pep Boys or parts store...it works...
#15
Originally posted by bobl
Great. I'll use the torch on the cat's rear bolts. At this point I put all the bolts back in and I'm waiting on the Random Tech cat to arrive. Then I'll just remove the Y-Pipe and Cat in one section and bolt up the Random to the Y and then the whole thing to the car.. I guess.
You have any thoughts on this? Should I bolt the Y-Pipe and the cat together and then put it on or put the cat on the back portion of the exhaust and then bolt the Y-Pipe on?
Great. I'll use the torch on the cat's rear bolts. At this point I put all the bolts back in and I'm waiting on the Random Tech cat to arrive. Then I'll just remove the Y-Pipe and Cat in one section and bolt up the Random to the Y and then the whole thing to the car.. I guess.
You have any thoughts on this? Should I bolt the Y-Pipe and the cat together and then put it on or put the cat on the back portion of the exhaust and then bolt the Y-Pipe on?
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