New clutch break in?
New clutch break in?
Is there a break in period/procedure for a new clutch and if so can someone thats absolutely knows what they are talking about explain how to break it in.
Thanks,
Alex
Thanks,
Alex
Basically the break in procedure for a new clutch is to baby the car. Don't go past 4K Rpms, no clutch dropping.. or any of that kind of stuff. Just baby the car for the first 500 miles.
I wouldn't go over 3000 rpms and would not drive the car hard throughout the first 500 miles. No clutch drops, burnouts, etc. as said above. Even if you put in a stage 3 it should still be broken in the same as an OEM replacement.
500 Miles is the typical suggested break in period, no extreme acceleration, clutch drops, powershifting, abrupt starts, etc. but I wouldn't say you need to keep it under 3000 rpms necessarily just avoid the hard accelerations.
i agree... 3000 may be a bit too low.. i mean if u keep it under 3grand then the better i guesse.. but dont stress out if you happen to go past 3grand..its not big deal.. just dont do like 4-6 thats all. hell, even hitting 4grand if you really have to every once in a blue moon shouldnt hurt. hmm that reminds me, i wonder when the average clutch replacement time for the 5.5gen 6spd's are.
i agree... 3000 may be a bit too low.. i mean if u keep it under 3grand then the better i guesse.. but dont stress out if you happen to go past 3grand..its not big deal.. just dont do like 4-6 thats all. hell, even hitting 4grand if you really have to every once in a blue moon shouldnt hurt. hmm that reminds me, i wonder when the average clutch replacement time for the 5.5gen 6spd's are.
Good info.. im also replacing my clutch tommorow. btw i think a average clutch goes at like 60k.
Thanks for the replies, this info is very helpful, just have to remember to drive like a grandma...
BTW this is an ACT 6 puck sprung race clutch for my VE track car on n2o...
BTW this is an ACT 6 puck sprung race clutch for my VE track car on n2o...
the engine rpm doesn't matter. drive the car as hard as you want BETWEEN shifts. shift at redline every shift if you want. just don't shift hard or do any clutch dumps. the point is to heat cycle the disc, PP, and flywheel-- just like you'd do with new brakes.
hard shifts and clutch dumps will shock the clutch and flywheel with heat, possibly glazing the clutch disc and doing more harm than good.
hard shifts and clutch dumps will shock the clutch and flywheel with heat, possibly glazing the clutch disc and doing more harm than good.
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