I removed my Stillen big brake kit for the winter so I can use the 15" winter tires. I couldn't get any pressure after numrous times of bleeding the system, so I thought the master cylinder was bad. I did the MC replacement myself. After two master cylinder replacements, still the same thing. I finally took it to a local shop. It turned out the pluger wasn't pushing into the master cylinder all the way. The shop bled the system twice and work on it for three days. I finally picked up my car after three days at the shop. I drove it 10 miles, the brakes locked on me. The brake peddle went solid with the calipers in the full lock position. Towed the car back to the shop. It turned out the brake booster wasn't releasing the extra pressure. Looks like I need a new brake booster....Brake booster is $800 from Nissan. I never heard anyone had the brake booster go bad on here even on high milege car. Could the shop ****ed up my brake booster when they were messing with the plunger? Oh, to make the whole experience even more ****ty. The shop put a deep *** ding on the driver side door. They are paying for the repair, but the more people touches my car. The more chance something will happen.

 

That really sucks. I had a brake booster go bad in my integra at 90k, so they can go bad, but I got a rebuilt one for less than $200. Good luck

 

sorry to hear that Tony.
damn... maybe it was so cold the lines to the pump suffered structural failure cuz the coating wasnt applied correctly.. you should say that its a manuf. defect.

 

waiting for eric to come on here and say that the max is a POS and etc..blah blah blah...

 

Yep, but that gen integra had the problem with the MC too... the sinking brake pedal feel

 

Well, i'm going to ask them for the old brake booster and see what the hell they did. I'm just going to bite the bullet and let them replace it with a brand new one. No CF hood and Z3 fenders this year.

 

sorry to hear of your troubles.

so the moral of the story is...

I guess now you're max is really 1MaxNottoNV

I hate having NE1 dou=ing NEthing to my cars, but sometimes you just have no other choice but to lube up and take it.

 

I admit my skill is some what limited since I'm not a pro. I don't see how I could have goofed. Only thing I didn't do was bench bleed it, but other than that it was pretty straight forward. The FSM was very vague on the bench bleeding process for the master cylinder. The only other MC install I ever did was on a 1985 Prelude and that was a success I didn't force the MC on the plunger or anything like that.

 

IMO, therein lies your problem. I replaced a master cylinder before and remember it came with specific instructions on bench bleeding it. I think I still have them around if you're interested...I could look for them.

 

What does bench bleeding the MC accomplish besides speeding up the bleeding process? Without bench bleeding it, more brake fluid will be wasted. I think that's about it? It doesn't really hurt the seals or damage the unit right? Correct me if I'm wrong

 

I found the instructions which I was referring to. They are for a 3rd gen aftermarket master cylinder and should be similar if not the same as for the 4th gen. It basically states that in order to properly remove entrained air from the MC you should follow this procedure; additionally there is a second instruction to remove air from the "low side"of the bore. email me at plrod@bellsouth.net and I will scan and send you these instructions if you'd like to see them.

Regards,

Pedro