For those of you criticizing Raod Beast.
If you guys don't want to buy the intake from this guy then don't!!

Without him you wouldn’t even be aware that such a part exists. You should be thankful he is willing to send some over.

Instead you choose to accuse him of making a big profit, without having any evidence. How cheap do you think Nissan parts are? Especially overseas.

Finally, racial slurs, and talk about 9/11 have no place on the board. Period

 

look at the date of this thread...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=82526

you don't know how cheap it is ither so you are just assuming like we are.. so take your own advice..

who the hell wants to pay $200 more for a part when it can be had for less.. no accused him of rippign people off.. we were just speculating..


i never made any racial slurs.. keep reading

 

Ah...OK.

Mardisgras, i need to talk to you about how you set yours up.

Are you ever going to do a write-up? If not, howabout a mini-write-up for me so i can get this going.

What was the MAP/Baro Switch used for? Was this activated by the RPM switch to activate the Vacuum Canister?

Let me know.

You can also just E-Mail me.

IanS

 

I will do somthing, the time frame is questionable. Ive got a pregnant wife, 1 kid, work, etc... and my own speed and racing addiction to satisfy. Given a choice to be doing any of the above and doing a write up, the write up will wait for a little while.

Maybe I should sell a kit... muuuhahahahahaha

 

Show your NZ contact these PICS, that's Roadbeast's car;

Note the oval shaped runners as the others have mentioned . . .

[http://www.sx7r.com/roadbeast/My%20engine%20pic.jpg
http://www.sx7r.com/roadbeast/Stille...20Mani%201.JPG
http://www.sx7r.com/roadbeast/Middel...t%20intake.JPG

 

For Matt, on a SC car. He doesn't have to really worry about extra fuel. He has the FPR, Field's fuel controller and the Vortec FMU that he can tune the fuel for that extra ~25hp on the top end. For NA or any nitrous car off nitrous. Anyone ever thought where those extra fuel is going to come from? Maybe the normal stock closed fuel map is rich enough to cover those extra air. What if it's not? A field's fuel controller will be needed. 4th gen ECU expect the HP curve to drop...not shoot up all the way to redline.

 

Good question Tony.

But IMHO, I think the stock ecu/injectors can handle it. Only if the intake can REALLY flow some big numbers will you start having a problem. The only way to really tell, is to get one one and and use a exhaust temp or A/F guage. But if the flow is not more than about 30% or so, I don't think there would be a problem. I do believe that the ecu tends toward the rich side for wot anyway. So my intial thought is we are "okay". But testing is the only way to tell. I guess if it got that bad, a FPR or SAFC might be in order.

 

the question now is.. can the stock fuel pump handle it? i know i have the Walbaro pump so i wouldn't be affected.. but will the stock fuel pump send enough fuel to the injectors.. and well BOOM

 

I went for a search looking for the collector. I found a place and was calling it the intake and he said it was like 650NZ dollars which equates to like 272 plus shipping which came to like 350 plus the money to wire it over there. When it came down to it I called it the wrong thing and the intake manifold that he was going to sell me was inbetween the the V-6 basically the part that sends the air into cylinders. and that the collector actually cost like 1400 which is how much Roadbeast is selling it for. So, the guy frantic called around and found one in a junk yard for me and was able to get the vacuum also. So, just make sure that your getting the collector.

Just a heads up

 

It's something everyone is going to have to check on their own. You know psi at idle and start thing. If indeed the mix starts to get lean, I hope the KS would catch it after the first few.

I can't say for sure but I *think* boost/nos knock is different than na lean knock. But I could be all wrong on this also.

 

which means anyone buying an intake would be advised to also pick up a FP Gauge...

 

I thought about the fuel issue, too and I rationalize it this way;

1) the car still relies on atmospheric pressure and vacuum to pull the air in. Not like a turbo or SC that > quadruples the atmospheric push of air into the combustion chamber.

2) The variable intake is not significantly bigger than the stock one.

3) We still use the same throttle body and air filters outside of the variable intake manifold.

4) It looks like the main purpose of the variable intake is not really to increase the amount of air going in, you can do that by simply making the manifold bigger, but more to provide a "resting spot" for the intake air as it travels to the combustion chamber. When the VQ30DE is ready to receive, the air whooshes down a much shorter path into the combustion chamber. The shorter path improves the high rpm breathing.

Having thought about all those issues, I think the stock fuel pump will handle the extra air because it doesn't look like it's really that much more.


The one thing that may go against this is the vacuum storage unit. I don't know how that fits into the whole setup.

DW

 

I don't think it will be a problem either. Fuel controller would be better for the job.

 

Another question I have is this:

If it only opens at above 5000RPM, how useful is it? One spends little time above 5000RPM in a quarter-mile race. (At least in my Automagic)

Would it really be worth it? What are the dangers of running it to open at 4500RPM's, or even less?

Thanks,
IanS

 

Well I think that is where he set it to open at though. I believe the type of switch he used was configurable, so that was his choice. You might be able to set it different.

SuDZ

 

Dont forget about the fact that a U.S shop can make these intakes
as long as they have one to go by, are a blueprint of it.
Why dont you buy one then find a shop near you that will make more
of them.
We dont have to make this hard.
Just like everything in the US once someone makes a good thing
15 different companys come out with the same thing.
just a thought.

 

That's the question you have to ask yourself Is the top end worth the price/labor for the VI. If you never ever rev above 5000rpm, then ofcourse not. It's like buying a turbo that you never ever step on the gas hard enough that it will boost. No danger in opening it under 45000rpm except you loose some torque. Which defeats the purpose for having a variable intake. You want long runners for low end torque and short runners for high end HP. With VI, you get the benefits of both.

 

That might save import charges too.

SuDZ

 

Put it on a dyno and see where the power curve starts to level off. As far as I understand, that is where it starts to "suck wind" because of the long intake runners. That would be the rpm to start at and then go from there.

 

You are kidding me right? No shop can make these. It's made out of cast aluminum. By the time the shop makes the mold and tooling for it. They are looking at tons of investment. They better sell several thousands of these just to make a profit. We are not talking about plastic toys or red "H" emblems here. A shop probably can make one out of sheet metal, but it's will be a short runner made for high horse power drag racing application.

 

Ok...the overseas VIis powered by a vacuum that is run off the MAF. When the MAF notice that there is more air flowing it opens up the butterfly to let more air in. Therefore giving you a better power curve throughout all your RPM. Because when on WOT the engine is requesting more Oxygen...so if it can open at WOT at either low or higher RPM's it will allow more oxygen into the engine therefore giving more power in both torque and Horsepower. I order one and it should hopefully be in within a few weeks. My friend and I are going to rig a sensor like the RPM swith to kick on the vacuum when you hit WOT. Basically let the WOT have a swith that connects the current to allow the vacuum to open the butterfly on the VI. That is our thought on the subject.

 

So are you saying the ECU is programmed to open this valve when the MAF sees certain reading. This mean you might not need to be at WOT for the butterfly to open or any certain RPM.

 

You are correct. It is something that is controlled by the ECU when it recieves readings from the MAF. But, because we most likely don't have the ECU programming to do it we have to Jimmy rig a vacuum to open up the butterfly in the VI. And that is why my friend and I are just trying to set something up for WOT because it should help out at any RPM. Especially at WOT so you can get the more oxygen in the cylinders at the time for the request.

 

Tony, here is how my VE unit works. At a certian rpm or load, it opens up. But the thing is when I just rev it in neutral(ie.. open hood and reving the car by hand), I can see the vacuum lever move. This is "no load" condition. I haven't read the FSM(I can if you want me to find out) but this leads me to believe it's a rpm activated switch. If this is the case, you can have it open at any rpm. Since the VQ makes gobs of torque anyway, I don't see a problem with it opening a little earlier than 5k. Hell maybe 3500rpm might be good.

 

I think the 4th gen VI is also RPM activated, just like your VE. The ECU isn't involved at all.

DW

 

How about this - you put Variable Intake on the car, then run one dyno (or average several runs) with the VI closed for the entire RPM range. Then do one run with the VI open for the entire RPM range. Put one dyno on top of the other, and wherever the open manifold starts to make more power is your activation point.

 

Thank Jeff. I was afraid the ECU takes all these other variables into consideration. ie. AC on/off, intak temp, load and alll sort of inputs to make the decision if the valve opens or not. Now it sounds more simple.