..................

 

Ill take 3

 

See, the problem is that you put it on upside down. You need to adjust your caliper so that it's 3 degrees before TDC when your air conditioning hits 9PSI of boost, that way you lean out the A/F mix in the brake booster, thereby making your muffler have a deeper growl.

 

NO, you got it all wrong, When the piston reaches TDC, you need to adjust the caliper to clamp on the roter as soon as the transmission goes into neutral or else the knock sensor will retard the timing and by then you will need new muffler bearings.

 

Oh, you know what, you are totally right. Last time I completely forgot to wire my muffler bearings to the relay and the blew my flex section right out. I promptly lost all vaccum and my flywheel took off the hub assembly. There was all kinds of brake fluid on my throttle body sensor. So yeah, don't forget to do that or you'll end up like me!

 

yea, I learned the hard way too. Last time I did that my headlight went out, turns out that I lost all my halogen fluid but its cool since I got HIDs now. I think my flex section blew out too since I can hear it though my speakers. I think I need a CF flex section.

 

WTF!!!!, I thought all this had to do with the crappy 9004 housing which makes us especially limited on the coefficent of the maxima. The drag plus the headlight makes it a important factor on what I hit on the road. If I had worn my glasses, I think I would had been ok.

 

...It all makes sense now! And all I thought I had to do was add fluid to the spark-plugs...but I guess that would only lighten the load to rear drive-train. Maybe next time I should try ceramic coating on my struts...?

 

and then you add butter to the fry pan and put the eggs on top, might wanna add some cheese and vegetables, wait a little, mix everything, wait some more and mmmm tasty.....installation....inside ....my ....tummy

ill try and do a more detailed write up so with pictures of me digesting it and how it comes out the "exhaust"

-IgS

 

hahahahah

-J

 

well it depends on the muffler, and how many resonators you have. You dont want a fartcan muffler with crush bends and no resonators, you dotn wanna sound like a Honda

 

But then again all hondas have V-TEC so I think its best to have as many crush bends as you can to maximize the V-TEC effect. I think if we add crush bends to our intake we can have typeR power and raise the redline.

 

aaaa....I just used white-out to raise my redline....That's cool Right!?

 

LMAO

 

im confused...

 

this is the worst thread ever!

 

correction, this is the funniest thread ever!

I just installed red/clears onto my intake which made the fluid rushing through my sparkplugs less viscous, thus promoting extra freon to heat my dome light which switched my variable exhaust at 4500 rpg to 45psi, thus promoting extra traction to my flywheel resulting in my 1/4 mile time decreasing to 11 kwh.

 

You know, that makes perfect sense! Now taken your advise, I rewired my motor mounts with fiberglass and installed an intercooler in-line with the anolog clock to reduce the air-drag on my spare tire. That inturn raised the PSI in my tire to 3 bars. At this rate I should have absolute Zero to the calipers which will inturn lower my spool spin rate to 10Hz. Of course I would have rebuild the airbag to handle the power going to the rear axle...know what I mean? Oh and don't forget to reinstall the No2 into the hub assemblies.

 

That's a very good strategy. But i somehow i tried this and it worked for me. I went to rewire my fogs to the new variable intake. And that somehow now lets me have a louder sound system. With this sound system the vibration carries to the engine to give it the extra hp that i needed to run a 1/4 mile time at -9.34@54mph. I can now take the cf spark plugs that i got from a hooker in cancun, install them into the engine, and wait for the PSI to jump to 100 to get the loudest sounding exhaust in the face of the planet.

 

hahaha this is some funny $h*t

 

did ya spray it with some WD-40 before you tried to install? you know it ain't gonna go in without some lube. GL

 

put some bubble gum on the piston after you install it in the muffler. this will help the windows role up smoother, and the tires wont wear out as much!

 

i'm gonna pass on da reel seecret ta mo power, first go down da skreet fo blocs don't cross any skreets, turn leff n da middle uf da bloc nxt to da airport, cut thru da 2nd yard, bi tree wid 2 honder mottas unda it. jump, les see 1..2..shree fences..yeah dats right den ast Shagnorton or lil Boo fo the 4 cans of racing compresshun, unles u want 6 so u kin reelli go fas. take dem an pour em in yo gas tank reel slo so's ya don't blo nuttin up or nuffin. an dats alls to it. fo turba power ast dem ifn ya kin toke on his xhaust @ bout 4500 rpm din hole it n an run reel fast bac ta yo car an blow it thru da cai, worx good til ya kin git ya own turba thingie. y'all b carful now, here. Straight roads and green lights!!!!!!

 

You know, you should do like us 2nd gen owners do. First you hook-up your NOS timer to your crossover pipe. Then you need to rewire the clutch master cylinder so it gets pressure from the blinker fluid resivoir. Then turn the fan setting to 4, and viola! you'll be running 20 psi of boost, and 727whp.

S

 

Ok first off the ruber pads you are using form the 8th gen wont fit unless you grind the teeth off 1st gear. This can be hard to do especially when your transmission was put in backwards.
1. In order to acces the first gear you will need to rmove the flux capacitator along with the cpu heatsink. This is not too difficlult if you use the proper technique. Heres a picture to help


2. You will now have full access to the inside of the transmision. Here is a picture of the first gear


3. In order to grind the gear down. you will need a 180 mm wrench along with this multitoo/grinder




hope this made everything much easier


once your done. this is how your gear will look

 

You got CF spark plugs? Im still running stock steel plugs (stock exhaust noise), but after i get my BOV trunk relocator kit itll be on like donkey kong! I called Autozone about those lightweight muffler bearings, and they asked if i had the Turbo or Non-Turbo. I just had to tell them i ran like 20PSI of Noost through stainless steel brake lines since 1997. I just installed the new rotor gaskets, but it really only gave me like 9 HP . I guess i was expecting more since i noticed a big increase when i hardwired my windshield washer fluid bottle to the ECU. In order for your fluid bottle to stop giving you torque and start giving raw HP, just turn it upside down! I was skeptical at first but with all that Noost, i didnt want my MAF sensor to read empty. I also rewired my fogs, but for some reason my throttle body came loose and throttle body fluid got all over the short throw shifter. I switched it back and re-lubricated the foglights. Last week i got my new BOSE sender unit, but i need to find a mechanic trained in noosted cars like mine.


Can anyone say, Mad-Libs?

 

Oh, and im out of blinker fluid. Anyone up for a GD?

 

I'll take 2 bottles of that Summer Air Can so that I can switch to Summer mode on the air for my tires.

 

oic now, rewire the ecu vss for output thru a jcw power inverter connected to an amped up blower switch. this allows the vss to act as a mini turbo!
for the necessary intercooler reroute the extra trans fluid thru the r/side heater hose to cool that hot A#$, power crankin ecu.

 

Well, im pretty sure youd have to invert the power inverter to get the results you want. you see, american style is clockwise, but what you want is JDM, which is counter-clockwise. The ECU can actually be spliced inline with the alternator behind the rear diffuser for optimal cooling. That should increase your aerodynamics and eliminate the need of the indiglo washer nozzles. Especially if the ECU is carbon fiber or comparable material. Hope thats helps you out a little.

JDM Maximas Rock!

 

Lmfao!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

are you guys sure that stuff will work. Why don't you just order a motor from John Deer and hook a turbo with some NOS to that bytch? Then we can all mow our lawns in the quarter of the time that we predicted.

 

sure i'm sure, aren't you sure you're sure. now if you're not sure about any of this and i mean the slightest doubt. check the original post......then reread slowly the very next post. the rest are affirmations that fertile minds just need a direction, then $%# happens!!!!! 3 of these mods i'm planning for this weekend.....not on my car but ..a..ahh..oh yeah a real good close buddie's car!! i'll post the #s soon.

 

NO!!! None of us are sure, because we need to check the FAQ in the 4th gen forum to find out how to do the V-12 engine swap. But you also need to make sure to wire up your altezzas correctly so that they give you the correct ratio of power to torque so the radiator fluid doesn't overflow into the 300zx Twin turbos and jam up the calipers. That would be very bad news because the blinker fluid would overheat causing the sunroof to malfunction which would in turn corrode all of the connections on the hyperground system and thus the headlights would constantly dim as the rpms go up in the bose amplifier.

The swap should only take a few decades to complete, so you still have time to unveil your beast before the CM Project car is COMPLETE!!!

Good luck

P.S...Don't forget to use the search button!!!

 

ahh yes, the v-12 swap will be out b4 custommaxima puts out their next product!