GD: D2 Racing 36 Way Adjustable Full Coilovers $825 shipped
#122
Originally Posted by Iilac
Thanks for the reply. But I want a definite answer. I have heard that they will not retain suspension travel like the JIC's.
#123
okay i got mine in today....how in the hell do you adjust the dampening? well i have an idea how to adjust it (turning the thin stick of metal supplied) but how do u freakin know which dampening setting you are on?
#125
Originally Posted by steven88
okay i got mine in today....how in the hell do you adjust the dampening? well i have an idea how to adjust it (turning the thin stick of metal supplied) but how do u freakin know which dampening setting you are on?
We are placing another order at the end of the month, if you are interested in getting in on this please give me a call!
919-383-4605
#126
just installed mine today, the adjustability of these coilovers is absolutely far ranged. I counted 38 clicks for the rear and 34 for the fronts, thats 72 levels of dampening.. haha.
one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
#127
Originally Posted by Larrio
just installed mine today, the adjustability of these coilovers is absolutely far ranged. I counted 38 clicks for the rear and 34 for the fronts, thats 72 levels of dampening.. haha.
one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
#128
Originally Posted by Battle Max V2.0
Larry how is the ride quality??????? im still debating on the teins or these??? ride better than your sprint agx set up?
still getting a clunk/pop. Which i attribute to either the front spring not seating correctly, or the spring in place when i'm turning.
#129
I've got some questions that are probably pretty basic/stupid since I've never really paid attention to coilovers because they always seemed really expensive.
Anyway, would I be correct in my understanding that these would replace EVERY part of the stock suspension? That is, I wouldn't have to replace all the other parts that might need to be replaced when buying say illumina's and a spring? These are the kind of parts I'm talking about http://staff.jccc.net/dlee/maxima/suspension/. These would all be replaced with this system correct? Because once you figure in some/all of those parts that may need to be replaced, these really aren't that expensive. Also how reliable are these? Are they going to blow quicker than a regular strut/spring combination? Thanks.
After reading through the thread some more I've got another question. Is it correct that stock suspension travel is retained for any ride height setting? I could even lower it like 2" and not bottom out (aside from possibly hitting the frame or something)?
Anyway, would I be correct in my understanding that these would replace EVERY part of the stock suspension? That is, I wouldn't have to replace all the other parts that might need to be replaced when buying say illumina's and a spring? These are the kind of parts I'm talking about http://staff.jccc.net/dlee/maxima/suspension/. These would all be replaced with this system correct? Because once you figure in some/all of those parts that may need to be replaced, these really aren't that expensive. Also how reliable are these? Are they going to blow quicker than a regular strut/spring combination? Thanks.
After reading through the thread some more I've got another question. Is it correct that stock suspension travel is retained for any ride height setting? I could even lower it like 2" and not bottom out (aside from possibly hitting the frame or something)?
#130
all parts are replaced except the rear upper strut mounts which you can reuse or purchase new at Nissan for $45. The amount of travel stays the same but is still a rougher ride due to the stiffer spring rate. Mine is lowered 2.5 " and have hit some good dips and holes, without bottoming out.
#131
So the pillowball mounts don't replace the front mounts? Also, I was reading maxmods an they said a complete coilover system (which it says D2's are) will replace all the rubber components of the suspension. Is this incorrect then? Thanks.
Here's the link if it helps http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaCoilovers
Here's the link if it helps http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaCoilovers
#133
Originally Posted by UrbanImport
The D2s DO replace the front mounts just not the rear.
#135
Originally Posted by slammed95
Swap your front coilovers and the problem is fixed.
I've done 2 sets of these coilovers, and no problems so far. Great build quality, but we'll see how they do in the long run.
I've done 2 sets of these coilovers, and no problems so far. Great build quality, but we'll see how they do in the long run.
#136
Originally Posted by slammed95
Swap your front coilovers and the problem is fixed.
I've done 2 sets of these coilovers, and no problems so far. Great build quality, but we'll see how they do in the long run.
I've done 2 sets of these coilovers, and no problems so far. Great build quality, but we'll see how they do in the long run.
#137
that doesn't seem right. The camber is suppose to go horizontally left and right perdendicular to the front of the car (parallel to the strut bar). The way yours are set up, the wheels are diagonally adjusted in relation to the front of the car.
if you swapped the two fronts, the holes would line up with the camber plates in the right areas.
if you swapped the two fronts, the holes would line up with the camber plates in the right areas.
#138
Originally Posted by Larrio
that doesn't seem right. The camber is suppose to go horizontally left and right perdendicular to the front of the car (parallel to the strut bar). The way yours are set up, the wheels are diagonally adjusted in relation to the front of the car.
if you swapped the two fronts, the holes would line up with the camber plates in the right areas.
if you swapped the two fronts, the holes would line up with the camber plates in the right areas.
#139
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
When you say "clicks", do you mean the marks on the little dial or do you literally mean you get a clicking sound. I don't get any clicking sound.
About the clunk noise, make sure you tighten down on the upper lower strut bolt really really good. If you didn't notice, that top hole has a offset where you can dial in more postivie camber. If that's not tighten down good, it would move around. Messing up your steering and alignment big time not to mention the noise.
You will need to tighten those lock rings on the spring perch really good too. Those got loose after I drove around. Started the poping noise.
Once you get those really tight, you should get no noise at all. I don't after I figured out what was loose.
About the clunk noise, make sure you tighten down on the upper lower strut bolt really really good. If you didn't notice, that top hole has a offset where you can dial in more postivie camber. If that's not tighten down good, it would move around. Messing up your steering and alignment big time not to mention the noise.
You will need to tighten those lock rings on the spring perch really good too. Those got loose after I drove around. Started the poping noise.
Once you get those really tight, you should get no noise at all. I don't after I figured out what was loose.
Originally Posted by Larrio
just installed mine today, the adjustability of these coilovers is absolutely far ranged. I counted 38 clicks for the rear and 34 for the fronts, thats 72 levels of dampening.. haha.
one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
one thing thats weird is that i get a god awful pop/clunk noise from the front right coilover on occasion. Also, the first night I had it the noise happened only when I turned right or when I braked, then it went away after I stopped to do a inspection I noticed that the bottom rubber boot doesn't sit into the spring completely (small size difference). I wonder if that could be the problem.
#141
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
I agree totally with Slammed95. If they are at an angle, then camber and caster would have a direct correlation when they shouldn't. You are suppose to able adjust camber without changing the caster.
For example, you want to dial in alot of negative camber at the track.
The correct way: The caster would stay constant while you dial in negative camber.
The wrong way: The more you change camber, the more the caster changes with it.
For example, you want to dial in alot of negative camber at the track.
The correct way: The caster would stay constant while you dial in negative camber.
The wrong way: The more you change camber, the more the caster changes with it.
Originally Posted by slammed95
Well, those people are wrong. Yes, they're at an angle, but they're not supposed to be. If you try to adjust caster by doing this, you're gonna throw off the centering of the wheel in relation to the wheel well.
These are camber plates.
If they work and it doesn't bother you, just leave them like that.
These are camber plates.
If they work and it doesn't bother you, just leave them like that.
#144
Originally Posted by 1MAX2NV
When you say "clicks", do you mean the marks on the little dial or do you literally mean you get a clicking sound. I don't get any clicking sound.
About the clunk noise, make sure you tighten down on the upper lower strut bolt really really good. If you didn't notice, that top hole has a offset where you can dial in more postivie camber. If that's not tighten down good, it would move around. Messing up your steering and alignment big time not to mention the noise.
You will need to tighten those lock rings on the spring perch really good too. Those got loose after I drove around. Started the poping noise.
Once you get those really tight, you should get no noise at all. I don't after I figured out what was loose.
About the clunk noise, make sure you tighten down on the upper lower strut bolt really really good. If you didn't notice, that top hole has a offset where you can dial in more postivie camber. If that's not tighten down good, it would move around. Messing up your steering and alignment big time not to mention the noise.
You will need to tighten those lock rings on the spring perch really good too. Those got loose after I drove around. Started the poping noise.
Once you get those really tight, you should get no noise at all. I don't after I figured out what was loose.
as for the clunking, most of it has gone away. My sponsor TET reduced the pre-load on the springs yesterday night and also tightened that rear spring perch that came loose. I got only 1-2 clunk/pops on a 50 mile drive back to school and it only happened when I was making a u-turn in the early morning with the steering wheel completely locked out.
one thing i've noticed with the d2's in comparison to kyb agx/sprint combo. The d2's take bumps and road imperfections really well in comparison with the agx/sprint, I couldn't take speed bumps before straight on or else the back end would bottom out or land really heavily, even at super low speeds. On the other hand, the d2's behave very differently on highway speeds with dips and holes. The car seems to fly over them and land heavily on all fours (best way i can describe it). Its actually quite uncomfortable at times driving around L.A. freeways
#145
Someone else please post a pick of the front strut tower under the hood showing the camber plate on 5th Gen max with D2 coilovers. If someone can show me this then I'll agree that I have a bad set of coilovers. I know they're not installed wrong because I've swapped sides and the holes only line up one way.
#146
Nope, if you look at the two outer bolts on your strut, they are parallel with the side of your. This would make yours move left to right like your saying. Yours is a 4th Gen right? Ok now look at the holes on mine. The two outer holes are not parallel with the side of the car like yours. I've tried spinning the coilover to make it co in opposite holes, but they are not evenly spaced therefor will only go in one way. Even when you the right one and move it over to the left. Also you talk about a lot of cluncking and popping. I'm not sure why that is mine are quiet except for a little bit of vibration thats transferred through the strut tower. Also where are your dampening settings. Originally I had mine set all the way on "L" thinking that would be the softest. For fun I turned all 1.5 turns from "L" toward "H" and I can't believe how much softer the ride. Took all of the bounce away.
#147
Originally Posted by XeroX
How much longer are these gona be available for this price?
I have some more questions though too if somebody wouldn't mind answering them. I read in one of the other threads that these are aluminum, is that correct? That would be great given the rust concerns of where I live. Is there any part that's made of any other metal? I would also like to confirm that the only other things I would need to install with these are the orange spacers pictured here (part numbers 55338-0M000 and 54329-39U00). Thanks alot.
#149
Originally Posted by Terran
I have some more questions though too if somebody wouldn't mind answering them. I read in one of the other threads that these are aluminum, is that correct? That would be great given the rust concerns of where I live. Is there any part that's made of any other metal? .
#151
Hey guys, for the one it interest, I was reading that the D2 can operate in temperature ranging from -5 to 60C, well since I live in Canada and in winter the temperature can go as low as -35C mostly in january and february I'm thinking that in the cold temperature the D2 can be very stiff, so for that reason I'll be waiting next spring before I install them. On another note I was wondering if the camber should be set with a small negative angle ? I would guess so but can anyone light up my light on this, I was told that a little negative camber ajustment can greatly improve handling but can also lead to an uneven wearing of the tire if the angle is too negative ( that seem to make sense but....any thoughs)
Cheers
AA
Cheers
AA
#152
Just set the things for full soft in the winter and don't worry about it.
for camber, you can go to about -1.5 without significant tire wear. usually -1 is a good all-around setting for camber.
for camber, you can go to about -1.5 without significant tire wear. usually -1 is a good all-around setting for camber.
#155
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
I have the D2 logo facing out on my 4th gen too. skalberti when I first installed the passenger side on the driver side. The camber plate looked just like yours. I knew I had it wrong so I swapped them.
#156
Originally Posted by 1MAX2NV
I have the D2 logo facing out on my 4th gen too. skalberti when I first installed the passenger side on the driver side. The camber plate looked just like yours. I knew I had it wrong so I swapped them.
#157
Originally Posted by skalberti
D2 really should have labeled these left and right. I'm glad you posted this 1max2nv this will keep a lot of others from making the mistake I did. I plan on switching them this weekend and realign on Monday. Man these things ride great. For a car that lowered 2.5" in the front, it doesn't ride much worse than stock. The handling on the other hand is out of this world. The car just eats up the curves.
#159
So you guys don't think the temperature ratings should be worried about. We get sub -5C here too in the winters.
Are struts like illumina's rated similarly or would they be a better choice in colder climates? I really like the idea of not loosing any suspension travel, but I could just go for a conventional system.
Are struts like illumina's rated similarly or would they be a better choice in colder climates? I really like the idea of not loosing any suspension travel, but I could just go for a conventional system.
#160
Those orange gaskets (spacers) are $15 a piece at the dealer! What a crock of crap. I'm going to make my own out of gasket material like skalberti did. This is when I get the new lower mount. Mine was the one that wasn't machined properly and too narrow to fit the steering knuckle.