Any significant problems w/2k I30's?
Any significant problems w/2k I30's?
Have 95 that has given me alot of problems. Saw 2k I30w/46k miles for $16, 400. But after looking at TSB information on http://www.alldata.com/ it looks like there are alot of probs with the "00. The ones that bother me specifically are :
*cold starting problems
*sunroof operating by itself
*driver's seat not moving forward or backward
The cold start probelm is on that I have had w/my '95 and simply hate it!
Can anyone let me know how or if these things have affected them? My wife has been pushing for an Acura. I hate to say that I may have to do it if things aren't quite right w/nissan/infiniti.
*cold starting problems
*sunroof operating by itself
*driver's seat not moving forward or backward
The cold start probelm is on that I have had w/my '95 and simply hate it!
Can anyone let me know how or if these things have affected them? My wife has been pushing for an Acura. I hate to say that I may have to do it if things aren't quite right w/nissan/infiniti.
2000 I30, 80k miles here...and never experienced any of these issues...knock on wood trim...
i took a look at the site, and i don't think you should be worried about the service bulletin list. If there were recalls, it would have been a different story.
i took a look at the site, and i don't think you should be worried about the service bulletin list. If there were recalls, it would have been a different story.
2000 i30 73k miles, none of those problems. I love my car except for the fact that it always travels right now (due to the SUV hitting me at like 30 mph ... that wasn't fun) .. I am thinking of selling mine and starting over with another one, but if I did I really would like the 3.5L of that i35 =)
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I'm at 67,000 and, same as everyone else, I haven't experience any of those, or any other, problems. This car has been a rock for the year I've owned it.
It's good to be aware of TSBs, since they're indications of what *might* go wrong, but I wouldn't rely on them in your decision-making process. We just got a 2002 Acura 3.5 RL and even though it's rated as one of the most reliable in its segment, it still has a TSB list that's two pages long.
It's good to be aware of TSBs, since they're indications of what *might* go wrong, but I wouldn't rely on them in your decision-making process. We just got a 2002 Acura 3.5 RL and even though it's rated as one of the most reliable in its segment, it still has a TSB list that's two pages long.
cold start: follow owner's manual on proper maintenance, proper fluids, proper gasoline > resolved
sunroof: short circuit in the control panel, easily fixed
seat not moving: this has to do with the control module thing being under the seat, I believe it is not properly positioned so what happens is when you sit on the seat, the wires get touched and moved,
over time this loosens the connection to the module and then you press the buttons and nothing happens, solution ranges from simple as plugging the connector back in to complicated where
you need to actually move the module lower from the factory location, in extreme cases the connector wires will need to be redone at a different angle by someone who can solder electronics.
all of these can be DIY
One other issue that I've had (and still have) is some mysterious short somewhere in the engine bay where the throttle position sensor keeps getting fried, this causes the rpms to go bezerk betweek 1500-2500 rpm
and makes the ECM and TCM and IAC go crazy and make the car undrivable. I stumbled onto a fix, you simply unplug the grey connector (aka open/closed throttle switch) and leave the orange one plugged
now, do this on a new good TPS not a bad one, this is obviously not a real fix but the car will drive just fine with it unplugged, I've been driving this way for years without issues (mind you I never go above 2500rpm)
sunroof: short circuit in the control panel, easily fixed
seat not moving: this has to do with the control module thing being under the seat, I believe it is not properly positioned so what happens is when you sit on the seat, the wires get touched and moved,
over time this loosens the connection to the module and then you press the buttons and nothing happens, solution ranges from simple as plugging the connector back in to complicated where
you need to actually move the module lower from the factory location, in extreme cases the connector wires will need to be redone at a different angle by someone who can solder electronics.
all of these can be DIY
One other issue that I've had (and still have) is some mysterious short somewhere in the engine bay where the throttle position sensor keeps getting fried, this causes the rpms to go bezerk betweek 1500-2500 rpm
and makes the ECM and TCM and IAC go crazy and make the car undrivable. I stumbled onto a fix, you simply unplug the grey connector (aka open/closed throttle switch) and leave the orange one plugged
now, do this on a new good TPS not a bad one, this is obviously not a real fix but the car will drive just fine with it unplugged, I've been driving this way for years without issues (mind you I never go above 2500rpm)
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