"Jerking" while accelerating
12-06-2005, 09:49 AM
#1
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"Jerking" while accelerating
Ok..I'm been having this problem off and on for awhile now (mostly on colder days) but it has gotten unbearable. Here's what happens....
On the first start of the morning the car idles very rough ("jerking" back and forth). When I shift into drive it smoothes a little (not much at all) and when accelerating the engine is "sputtering" - like it is starving for fuel (i'm guessing). Before I take it to a mechanic I was wondering if anyone has had the same problem and what I might be able to do in the garage to correct it.
Oh..almost forgot one more sympton....the SES light is on and blinks when under acceleration as the car "sputters"
Is this a fuel delivery problem or a drivetrain issue? Any comments appreciated.
Thanks!
On the first start of the morning the car idles very rough ("jerking" back and forth). When I shift into drive it smoothes a little (not much at all) and when accelerating the engine is "sputtering" - like it is starving for fuel (i'm guessing). Before I take it to a mechanic I was wondering if anyone has had the same problem and what I might be able to do in the garage to correct it.
Oh..almost forgot one more sympton....the SES light is on and blinks when under acceleration as the car "sputters"
Is this a fuel delivery problem or a drivetrain issue? Any comments appreciated.
Thanks!
12-06-2005, 09:58 AM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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I would guess MAF or maybe an ingition coil.
Take your car to autozone and use their OBDII scanner to see if your ECU has stored any codes.
If there are any other maxes or I30's in the area you could swap out their MAF and see if that's the problem.
Take your car to autozone and use their OBDII scanner to see if your ECU has stored any codes.
If there are any other maxes or I30's in the area you could swap out their MAF and see if that's the problem.
12-06-2005, 11:11 AM
#4
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I wouldn't suspect the maf since it idles rough, I'd check to see if you have a knock sensor code or anything else. Also, have you done the fuel filter recently? Check the codes for sure though.
12-06-2005, 11:28 AM
#5
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yea the idle is very rough...but one more thing i've noticed is that if I shift into neutral at a complete stop the "jerking" almost disappears.
it has been awhile since i changed the fuel filter....i am going to definitely do that anyway.
it has been awhile since i changed the fuel filter....i am going to definitely do that anyway.
12-06-2005, 11:36 AM
#7
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I say MAF because a lot of people with the symptoms you describe have had bad MAFs... That and the MAF seems to be a weak point on our VQ's.
Rough idle could also be from a dirty TB.
How many miles do you have on your car? If you are still under the extended warantee the dealer should cover the MAF (got mine replaced recently) I doubt you would have any problem with the fuel pump/filter until well over 100k.
Rough idle could also be from a dirty TB.
How many miles do you have on your car? If you are still under the extended warantee the dealer should cover the MAF (got mine replaced recently) I doubt you would have any problem with the fuel pump/filter until well over 100k.
12-06-2005, 12:08 PM
#8
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Posts: 350
Before you sink a lot of money into it, grab a bottle of dry gas and dump it in. I replaced a clutch on a different vehicle that I thought was slipping (hey...I was 17) due to water in the gas. It was winter and temps had feen up & down a LOT making condensation worse.
After that, all was good but I spent money having the clutch done for no reason when I just needed to eliminate the (as you've guessed) fuel delivery issue.
After that, all was good but I spent money having the clutch done for no reason when I just needed to eliminate the (as you've guessed) fuel delivery issue.
12-06-2005, 12:54 PM
#9
I had a similar problem once (but not while idling) with my 96 Maxima. I don't exactly remember but I think I pulled some misfire codes. I pulled out front three ignition coils, tested it and found no apparent problem. When I put them back, the problem was gone and no single occurence of jerking ever since. I guess I got lucky.
12-06-2005, 01:15 PM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 51
I had a problem like this too. I brought it to the dealer and they put it on their computer and it told them it was a bad ignition coil. I replaced it and it worked great... I did hear that sometimes moisture can get inbetween and cause a problem too
12-06-2005, 03:44 PM
#11
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codes codes codes codes codes codes is one of those words that if you say it a bunch of times really fast its weird, try it, even if your not lit up like I am right now.
Seriously though, I beleive it's different on a '00 so do a search, otherwise I'd tell you how right now it's that simple, you also you need a list of the codes for a '00.......
Seriously though, I beleive it's different on a '00 so do a search, otherwise I'd tell you how right now it's that simple, you also you need a list of the codes for a '00.......
12-06-2005, 04:31 PM
#13
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An example of why I'd personally rather scan them myself instead of autozones free obdII scan:
I believe theres at least two different circuit fault codes for 1 single front o2, theres also two lean/rich codes for that same front o2, The guy at autozone will just say "bank one sensor one", when he should say "upstream right bank heater circuit fault", so for me personally, unless I'm the one reading the scanner, which I'm not since i don't have one, I would rather extract the codes myself for the sake of knowing exactly what I'm getting.
I believe theres at least two different circuit fault codes for 1 single front o2, theres also two lean/rich codes for that same front o2, The guy at autozone will just say "bank one sensor one", when he should say "upstream right bank heater circuit fault", so for me personally, unless I'm the one reading the scanner, which I'm not since i don't have one, I would rather extract the codes myself for the sake of knowing exactly what I'm getting.
12-07-2005, 11:19 AM
#14
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,860
The guy at my Autozone just gives me the scan tool and lets me do it myself. I was actually told that they CANT do it for you anymore in CA. All the shops were getting all in a tizzy because they usually charge people upwards of $100 for the same thing. So you have to do it yourself, but you can borrow the OBDII.
Law makers are really getting out of control.
Law makers are really getting out of control.
12-07-2005, 12:22 PM
#16
This may or may not be your problem, but when I had my SHO, I was having a very similar experience. I would be driving down the road and all of a sudden, the car would jerk fairly violently back and forth. Sometimes it would go away after a few shudders, but sometimes I would pull onto the side of the freeway and just let it sit for a while cursing madly. Even when it was stopped it would still jerk. I finally found out that it was just the Cam Position Sensor; a $25 fix. Never did it again after that. I can only guess that this would be a similar situation for the VQ.
Good luck!
Good luck!
12-07-2005, 12:39 PM
#17
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 342
Originally Posted by BlackKnight
This may or may not be your problem, but when I had my SHO, I was having a very similar experience. I would be driving down the road and all of a sudden, the car would jerk fairly violently back and forth. Sometimes it would go away after a few shudders, but sometimes I would pull onto the side of the freeway and just let it sit for a while cursing madly. Even when it was stopped it would still jerk. I finally found out that it was just the Cam Position Sensor; a $25 fix. Never did it again after that. I can only guess that this would be a similar situation for the VQ.
Good luck!
Good luck!
p.s. you should hear some of the words i have for my car!! lol
12-07-2005, 06:40 PM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 350
I believe replacing a coil is similar in nature to replacing the module that rests on top of each spark plug wire.
Here's what I know but others will be able to verify.
...apologies for close but not quite 100% content.
In older technology engines, there is a distributor and a single coil that feeds it power (normally the coil is connected by the center wire on the round distributor) Wires come from the distibutor (so called because it "distributes" a quick jolt of electricity to the spark plug) to each spark plug at excatly the right time and hopefully as the atomized fuel and air are compressed to just about the maximum travel of each piston.
Advancements in the ability to contol timing, fuel mixtures and the like made it so that each spark plug has its own little coil on top of it, integrated into what was the spark plug wire. Ths allows for individual and more instantaneous adjustments to fuel burn and more efficient power production. The "hopefully" factor is more remote with this technology.
That being said, now you have more coils that can go bad and occasionally they do. To replace them, (I have not done so myself) but it seems pretty simple. You may be best off to let someone do it who's got the tools and know-how to get to the back 3 spark plugs, but I believe it's not too hard for a novice, just based on how mine looks.
Anyway, grab 6 new coils (unless you can figure out which one(s) is/are bad) and it's time to remove the old coil and replace it with the new one. I believe it is mounted along side each spark plug wire and secured down to the block, just before it connects to the spark plug. I am not aware of any adjustments needed after the swap.
The coils are probably not cheap so you may want to see if you can handle it yourself to replace them. To figure that out, grab an Allen wrench and remove the decorative plastic cover from the metal valve cover (where the Infiniti logo is). You'll see the black plastic modules covering holes for where the spark plugs go and its individual coil. If you're still not sure what to look for, go to the parts counter and ask to see one, then go look at yours. I believe it pretty much unbolts and swaps out with the new one.
If I had the same problem and wanted to save some money, I'd buy just one coil and swap it with all 6 coils one at a time to find the bad one. The PIA factor would be if another one went bad and I had to do it all again because the 3 cylinders on the back side of the block look tough to get to.
It goes without saying that anytime you work in this area, disconnecting the battery is a good idea and DO NOT drop anything into the spark plug holes, Even if the plugs are not removed it is difficult to get stuff back out.
I'm not aware of a "bench" test to find out if a coil is bad or not but there may be one.
If money were no issue and I just wanted it to be right, I'd take it in and have them do all 6 as opposed to finding the bad one, because the other coils are just as old as the bad one and doing this stuff twice just sucks $.
If I wanted to learn something and save some $, I'd get 6 new coils, replace the front 3 and have the dealer or another good shop do the back 3.
(So much for my idea of water in the gas.)
Let us know how it goes....
Here's what I know but others will be able to verify.
...apologies for close but not quite 100% content.
In older technology engines, there is a distributor and a single coil that feeds it power (normally the coil is connected by the center wire on the round distributor) Wires come from the distibutor (so called because it "distributes" a quick jolt of electricity to the spark plug) to each spark plug at excatly the right time and hopefully as the atomized fuel and air are compressed to just about the maximum travel of each piston.
Advancements in the ability to contol timing, fuel mixtures and the like made it so that each spark plug has its own little coil on top of it, integrated into what was the spark plug wire. Ths allows for individual and more instantaneous adjustments to fuel burn and more efficient power production. The "hopefully" factor is more remote with this technology.
That being said, now you have more coils that can go bad and occasionally they do. To replace them, (I have not done so myself) but it seems pretty simple. You may be best off to let someone do it who's got the tools and know-how to get to the back 3 spark plugs, but I believe it's not too hard for a novice, just based on how mine looks.
Anyway, grab 6 new coils (unless you can figure out which one(s) is/are bad) and it's time to remove the old coil and replace it with the new one. I believe it is mounted along side each spark plug wire and secured down to the block, just before it connects to the spark plug. I am not aware of any adjustments needed after the swap.
The coils are probably not cheap so you may want to see if you can handle it yourself to replace them. To figure that out, grab an Allen wrench and remove the decorative plastic cover from the metal valve cover (where the Infiniti logo is). You'll see the black plastic modules covering holes for where the spark plugs go and its individual coil. If you're still not sure what to look for, go to the parts counter and ask to see one, then go look at yours. I believe it pretty much unbolts and swaps out with the new one.
If I had the same problem and wanted to save some money, I'd buy just one coil and swap it with all 6 coils one at a time to find the bad one. The PIA factor would be if another one went bad and I had to do it all again because the 3 cylinders on the back side of the block look tough to get to.
It goes without saying that anytime you work in this area, disconnecting the battery is a good idea and DO NOT drop anything into the spark plug holes, Even if the plugs are not removed it is difficult to get stuff back out.
I'm not aware of a "bench" test to find out if a coil is bad or not but there may be one.
If money were no issue and I just wanted it to be right, I'd take it in and have them do all 6 as opposed to finding the bad one, because the other coils are just as old as the bad one and doing this stuff twice just sucks $.
If I wanted to learn something and save some $, I'd get 6 new coils, replace the front 3 and have the dealer or another good shop do the back 3.
(So much for my idea of water in the gas.)
Let us know how it goes....
12-08-2005, 10:10 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,860
The coils are very easy to replce, although the rear bank will be more difficult. The only problem is thay are expensive.
If you do find that it is the coils, call Dave B @ 1-888-254-6060. Many people on the org buy parts from him because he has good prices.
Also, make sure you get the updated coil packs. Ask Dave and he will know what you are talking about. The 2000 VQ's coils seem to have problems, that is why there is an update.
EDIT: Again, how many miles on your car? Infiniti is very good with customer service and warrantee work. You may be able to get it fixed for free.
If you do find that it is the coils, call Dave B @ 1-888-254-6060. Many people on the org buy parts from him because he has good prices.
Also, make sure you get the updated coil packs. Ask Dave and he will know what you are talking about. The 2000 VQ's coils seem to have problems, that is why there is an update.
EDIT: Again, how many miles on your car? Infiniti is very good with customer service and warrantee work. You may be able to get it fixed for free.
05-12-2016, 10:47 PM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1
nissan maxima 99
in the past 6 months ihave replaced 4 coil packs , spark plugs and have a new fuel filter, and the last two were replaced less then 3 months go, and today it seems the jerking is back, running rough when i start it jerking when in gear but not moving and loss of acceleration, what the hell is going on, this is costing me a fortune which would be fine if every three months i didnt have to do it again
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