nguyendot

Got a question.. I don't want to replace the stock subwoofer with another bose as it is out of warranty and don't really care much for it anymore. What size is the subwoofer, and can I replace it with a normal subwoofer? I hear Bose's speakers are all 1ohm and that can cause a problem with aftermarket subwoofers. I looked and saw these which can be mounted free air.

http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?...pid=32&cur=USD

Thanks

MetaOrbit

iTrader: (19)

I fit a Kicker 8" FreeAir sub in the rear deck in the stock location wayyyyy back in the day without a problem.

No matter what though, you're going to need an aftermarket amplifier to power it. I used a small RF amp I had laying around for the time being.

Ultimately, I didn't like the sound it put out (though it was better than stock) and dumped it for a more conventional 12" in a box setup.

nguyendot

Yeah that's what I thought. I used to be into the car audio scene a few years ago, and have kind of fallen out. I think I'm going to get 4-6 of those 6.5" elemental designs subwoofers and put them in a flatter box, and port 1000wrms to them. It'll put out decent bass and not take up any room at all. Now to wire it all without doing stupid amounts of modification to my car. This time around, simpler is better.

clayman88

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to hear more on this subject...anybody else?

tyler5619

iTrader: (7)

in a related subject, my bose HU is spitting out error messages left and right, i'm wondering if i can put a new HU in its place...the only debate is whether or not the bose speakers would hold. i hear bose speakers are 1ohm and most aftermarket HU's put out 4ohms? or something like that? anybody?

MetaOrbit

iTrader: (19)

Try the audio forum. I'd advise reading the FAQs first.

InfinitiJ30

^ audio forum's got answers for your questions

v6maximus

If the bose speakers are 1ohm, it's not a question if the speakers will hold out, its rather a question if your new head unit will hold up since it won't be 1ohm stable. Get an aftermarket amplifier that is 1ohm stable, or buy new speakers. If you don't you probably blow up your new headunits internal amplifier.

tyler5619

iTrader: (7)

the FAQ's said something about getting a BOSE interface...i think i might go that route. or maybe, since my HU has a cd changer option, i may just go out and get a changer installed, since apparently it's already prewired for one. or maybe my HU can be fixed...it stops playing CD's when the HU gets hot, whether it be because it's hot out, or my car warms up. who knows. all i know is that a LOT of people have problems with these things...i googled "BOSE Cd ERR" and got like...30 bajillion results. anyway, thanks for the advice,

-tyler

mydecember1985

iTrader: (1)

Alright, for those of you out there with a 2000+, I know that the front tweeters are 4 Ohm, and I have already replaced those with aftermarkets.
IF I order the AOEM-PAC NIS2, using it to add on an amplifier to power a set of components I would like to put in the door.

THE PROBLEM:
I noticed when I replaced the tweeters in the columns, that it looked as if the wires getting signal to the tweeters were tapped into another set of wires.(possibly the front speakers are in a series/parallel)?????????

If I remove the stock bose front 6-1/2's(1 OHM), will I lose the tweeters, and if not, will it change the ohm load on the bose amp?

Gian13

iTrader: (1)

I was reading the audio forums the other day and they advised me to buy some kind of a wiring that let you hook up an aftermarket amp and then run the subs box from there.
Got it on ebay for like 40 bucks.
When I went to my korean audio geniuses they told me I don't need this piece I just bought and they are charging me $200 for the installation.
Should I go for it? I got a jl prowedge box with 10" subs in it, and a jl amp in the waiting room.

bi30

I say put in the sub if you want some bass. I bought a PAC converter plug and play. I think i paid about $50 for all parts, just make sure you buy the right one for your car, call them and find out. Bose system is totally different from others.
Had it for 2 years now, works fine.

http://www.audiowarehouse.peachhost....CGotherpac.htm

Gian13

iTrader: (1)

Hey bi30, that's the same thing I bought. How hard is to install this thing?
Do you know if there's like a walktrough for this installation in thie website?
How much should I pay for someone to hook my sub box and amp using the PAC converter?
Thanks

bi30

Gian13, Not to scare you but i had a problem with my PAC converter. the power wire on the PAC had to be rewire, never had a problem after that. i don't think there's a walktrough but just shop around different audio shops and choose the lowest price.
PS - let me know how much they charge.

hoofbite

FYI- 20-25 bucks for the PAC converter at best buy

(college student here)

I was quoted a normal price to install a sub and amp combo from best buy as around $70 labor in addition to parts. The guy knew all about Bose's 1ohm situation and said his process was to simply tap the leads from the rear deck amp for signal, and then the standard power+ground for amp power.

MetaOrbit

iTrader: (19)

Are you sure it's the AOEM-NIS2 they have for $20-25? That's unusually cheap, especially at BB. That sounds more like what they'd charge for a generic line output converter.

Nakulbhatt87

iTrader: (1)

yeah it can't be the PAC converter, i think he's selling you a regular line out converter that just takes in two speaker signals and provides a single output. not the best idea but it works i installed that in a friends I30. I work at BB install bay we def don't sell PAC nissan specific items.

99blkgle

Yo, ive messed with mine a lot, at first i used the pac converter because i could not get a hold of a dash kit, now i do though, i suggest you just pull the entire plate out of the back and leave the grille on, then get a good 12 or something. The hole lets a whole lot more sound in to the cabin! I too had a problem with my converter, when i changed it to cd it would turn it off, so i just ran a remote wire into the fuse box to a 12volt source acc, worked great after that, uhh, just get you a 12 k, sound is much better that any 8 could do, me personally pulled any thing that said bose in my car and replace it with polk , with 2 amps and 1 twelve, much better than that bose $#!+ but what ever floats your boat

Gian13

iTrader: (1)

$200 for installing a damn amp and a jl prowedge box.
I asked for a discount or something and the korean dude who runs the audio shop is gonna let me have it for $190 (Huge discount, uh?)
I'm gonna think about it for a minute!

KI30t

I hear you bro with the Bose SH*%! I hate the bose system in my car. I'm in the process of redoing my whole system, but first am trying to locate or fabricate a new dash trim for aftermarket radio.

hoofbite

Youre right its generic, I denied the install but still bought the part, figure I can always return it. Still subless though....

I-30BLACKDEMON

I've just seen an ad in Ultimate Electronics for a Rockford Fosgate device that may help with many people's problems. It claims that it allows for signals from factory decks to be converted to usable signals for amplifiers and speakers and has a built in connection for ipods. I know there are simple adapters but this seems to have alot more options. The model is 3SIXTY. Listed at $299.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Wow... Look who decided to FINALLY join.

nguyendot

Ok so I finally did it about a month ago lol. Just updating now.
I installed the PAC AOEM-NIS2 (Best buy doesnt sell it, btw, its not even in their system so what the other guy got was a line out converter...poor choice).

The remote line on the adapter only is active if the radio is on (remote antenna?!?). Had to tap the fuse box for a remote, but that was simple.

Installed 4GA (biggest I wanted running under the door sill) power to the trunk, and ran it to my Rockford X400.4 4 channel bridged to 2 x 250wrms @ 4ohms. This was attached to my 2 Infinity (irony) Reference 12" SVC subs.

I have to say, it was very clean, and hit very hard for the amount of power I was running. I kept telling myself I'd keep it small, keep it simple. Yeah, right. The bug bit me for the second time (my last car was insane on car audio).

I wanted more, but am determined (for now) to keep the stock HU.

I ripped out the Infinity subs and replaced them with 2 Alpine Type Rs, 12", and am powering them with a 1000wrms MB Quart RAA1000 monoblock @ 1 ohm. Crazy bass, but its still clean as its sealed and the amp is very clean in its signal.