I-35 nightmare -
#1
I-35 nightmare -
What would kill a battery if its not the Alternator. In short and brief explanation as I can possibly put it..
3 new battery's later I'm perplexed and exhausted all the possibilities of what could it be..
1. If I leave the car parked (new battery) for more than 4 days the battery drains.
2. Car stereo does not shut off anymore or none of the stereo buttons work, I can only change the mode of operation & volume control it from the steering wheel.
3. If I get a jump and start the car I have no problem starting it turning it on/off as long as I dont leave it parked in the off position for more than 1-2hrs or it dies again...
4. I noticed the security light (solid no blinking) stays on if I lock the car whereas it did not do this before.
Other issues this lovely nightmare has: the cigarette lighter/sunshade button and rear cigarette/power do not work..All the fuses are good only there is no power to the 3 units..
What gives any ideas guys!! I need your help & advice...Thanks!!! All suggestions and opinions would be appreciated... My I-35 is making me crazzzyy!
3 new battery's later I'm perplexed and exhausted all the possibilities of what could it be..
1. If I leave the car parked (new battery) for more than 4 days the battery drains.
2. Car stereo does not shut off anymore or none of the stereo buttons work, I can only change the mode of operation & volume control it from the steering wheel.
3. If I get a jump and start the car I have no problem starting it turning it on/off as long as I dont leave it parked in the off position for more than 1-2hrs or it dies again...
4. I noticed the security light (solid no blinking) stays on if I lock the car whereas it did not do this before.
Other issues this lovely nightmare has: the cigarette lighter/sunshade button and rear cigarette/power do not work..All the fuses are good only there is no power to the 3 units..
What gives any ideas guys!! I need your help & advice...Thanks!!! All suggestions and opinions would be appreciated... My I-35 is making me crazzzyy!
#2
This is a good one. There is obviously a current draw happening after you turn the car off. I can't figure out a common link to all of the items you mention.
You go have a lot of problems with things in the console. But they all run off of different fuses, meaning different circuits. If you had a wiring problem, I would think you'd be blowing fuses left and right.
I have lots of ideas floating around in my head, some of which are probably just plain wrong.
I would start by measuring the voltage in the car while the engine is running to check the alternator. The voltage should read 13.8 to 14.3 if the alternator is good. If the alternator is producing too much voltage, this can burn out components.
Then you need to start checking the current draw while the car is off. A normal car is around .2 amp (2 tenths). I have no idea what your car will show. Anyway, you then start pulling out fuses one at a time and see if the current draw changes. You can start with the fuses by the battery since they are close. If you pull out the fuse labeled FL40A IGN SW and nothing changes, you can skip pulling out about half of the fuses in the dash.
You could also unplug the radio while monitoring the current. That thing is messed up big time.
Similarly, if you have an aftermarket alarm system, find the power source for it and disconnect it.
You go have a lot of problems with things in the console. But they all run off of different fuses, meaning different circuits. If you had a wiring problem, I would think you'd be blowing fuses left and right.
I have lots of ideas floating around in my head, some of which are probably just plain wrong.
I would start by measuring the voltage in the car while the engine is running to check the alternator. The voltage should read 13.8 to 14.3 if the alternator is good. If the alternator is producing too much voltage, this can burn out components.
Then you need to start checking the current draw while the car is off. A normal car is around .2 amp (2 tenths). I have no idea what your car will show. Anyway, you then start pulling out fuses one at a time and see if the current draw changes. You can start with the fuses by the battery since they are close. If you pull out the fuse labeled FL40A IGN SW and nothing changes, you can skip pulling out about half of the fuses in the dash.
You could also unplug the radio while monitoring the current. That thing is messed up big time.
Similarly, if you have an aftermarket alarm system, find the power source for it and disconnect it.
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