zero2sixtyZ's 5.5 replacement...
Nice. You know, I've always thought of the phrase "shoes" to mean tires, not wheels.
But then, I wouldn't actually use the phrase anyway, so it doesn't really matter.
Too many ADVAN logos... one per "shoe" is plenty, IMO.
Spring is almost here, Zero. Such a crappy winter.
But then, I wouldn't actually use the phrase anyway, so it doesn't really matter.
Too many ADVAN logos... one per "shoe" is plenty, IMO.
Spring is almost here, Zero. Such a crappy winter.
Last edited by Rochester; Mar 9, 2015 at 01:38 PM.
Nice. You know, I've always thought of the phrase "shoes" to mean tires, not wheels.
But then, I wouldn't actually use the phrase anyway, so it doesn't really matter.
Too many ADVAN logos... one per "shoe" is plenty, IMO.
Spring is almost here, Zero. Such a crappy winter.
But then, I wouldn't actually use the phrase anyway, so it doesn't really matter.
Too many ADVAN logos... one per "shoe" is plenty, IMO.
Spring is almost here, Zero. Such a crappy winter.
I was tempted to get them refinished in a bright silver metallic, but I'll leave them for now. Saw these for sale locally and couldn't pass it up.
Winter sucks, and I still don't know why I live here.
Hmm. If you're worried about the mismatch, I did that exact same thing in 2013 without any issues at all. In fact, the rear-only PSS config only improved things, even while the front OEM Bridgestones RE050A's were running thin.
Still think you should ditch the spoke stickers.
Just the rears, not the fronts?
Hmm. If you're worried about the mismatch, I did that exact same thing in 2013 without any issues at all. In fact, the rear-only PSS config only improved things, even while the front OEM Bridgestones RE050A's were running thin.
Still think you should ditch the spoke stickers.
Hmm. If you're worried about the mismatch, I did that exact same thing in 2013 without any issues at all. In fact, the rear-only PSS config only improved things, even while the front OEM Bridgestones RE050A's were running thin.
Still think you should ditch the spoke stickers.
Nope, 8k front, 12k rear. Car comes factory with close to 50/50 weight distribution. I was told by other suspension shops that the difference in MacPherson fronts to Multilink rear requires the spring rates to be staggered towards the rear. Springs are more in-board, leverage, etc..
Originally, the 335 was setup to be softer and have a bit of understeer, but I mimicked the Ohlins M3 spring rates since I am ridding the lower strut bushing deflection with the solid M rear control arms.
Originally, the 335 was setup to be softer and have a bit of understeer, but I mimicked the Ohlins M3 spring rates since I am ridding the lower strut bushing deflection with the solid M rear control arms.
Last edited by zero2sixtyZ; Mar 23, 2015 at 05:34 AM.
Nope, 8k front, 12k rear. Car comes factory with close to 50/50 weight distribution. I was told by other suspension shops that the difference in MacPherson fronts to Multilink rear requires the spring rates to be staggered towards the rear. Springs are more in-board, leverage, etc..
Originally, the 335 was setup to be softer and have a bit of understeer, but I mimicked the Ohlins M3 spring rates since I am ridding the lower strut bushing deflection with the solid M rear control arms.
Originally, the 335 was setup to be softer and have a bit of understeer, but I mimicked the Ohlins M3 spring rates since I am ridding the lower strut bushing deflection with the solid M rear control arms.
Best part of this setup, is that currently it is tailored for street use. If I do turn this car more into a track rat, the coilovers can be revalved at Fortune Auto for $50/corner in VA.
Picking up the M3 lower camber links today.
Been there man. I reached a point where the Max was deteriorating, and I got tired of fixing. Provided, this isn't the most reliable car to jump to but the capability in both power and suspension sold me so I pushed myself to have one.
Speaking of looks... just put the wheels back on last weekend.
I'll be honest with you, They look good but the color is the problem. If your car was white or some other color they would look perfect but its just too dark now. Maybe a lip kit to the body and a little more low in the front. But if you like them that's all that matters.
That G37 also needs a spacer upfront. About a +25
That G37 also needs a spacer upfront. About a +25
He knows. What was news to me was the Z-Sport rims don't have pockets between the stud holes, so he has to get traditional spacers with extended studs.
As for Zero's car, I suspect it makes a different impression up close and personal, opposed to random pics. I think that's always the case when it comes to dark wheels on a dark car.
What was news to me was the Z-Sport rims don't have pockets between the stud holes, so he has to get traditional spacers with extended studs.As for Zero's car, I suspect it makes a different impression up close and personal, opposed to random pics. I think that's always the case when it comes to dark wheels on a dark car.
He knows. What was news to me was the Z-Sport rims don't have pockets between the stud holes, so he has to get traditional spacers with extended studs.
As for Zero's car, I suspect it makes a different impression up close and personal, opposed to random pics. I think that's always the case when it comes to dark wheels on a dark car.
What was news to me was the Z-Sport rims don't have pockets between the stud holes, so he has to get traditional spacers with extended studs.As for Zero's car, I suspect it makes a different impression up close and personal, opposed to random pics. I think that's always the case when it comes to dark wheels on a dark car.
Completely agree with you guys. I'm not a fan of the dark wheels at dusk or at night. During the day, the sunlight hits the metallic in the wheels, creating a bit of contrast. I loved having the car fairly uniform and clean, and the wheels in bright OEM silver. Same mantra as I had with the 5.5, and it worked well.
I'll either see if someone wants to trade silver Advan RS' or get them refinished next year.
Window trim, finally. (Pre wash pictures)
Steps:
Prep: Clean paint with meguiars gold class wash, painters tape on surrounding paint, isopropyl alcohol to remove grease from trim.
Application: Lay down and stretch vinyl inch by inch, making relief cuts into excess. Once end to end is finished, remove excess and tuck.
Coilovers finally arrived yesterday after two months. Will have more pics of those later.
I'll either see if someone wants to trade silver Advan RS' or get them refinished next year.
Window trim, finally. (Pre wash pictures)
Steps:
Prep: Clean paint with meguiars gold class wash, painters tape on surrounding paint, isopropyl alcohol to remove grease from trim.
Application: Lay down and stretch vinyl inch by inch, making relief cuts into excess. Once end to end is finished, remove excess and tuck.
Coilovers finally arrived yesterday after two months. Will have more pics of those later.
Last edited by zero2sixtyZ; Apr 24, 2015 at 11:57 AM.
25mm would be too much. Looking into 15mm. The rear has a slight poke, which is enough for me. Don't want it in the front too.
Oh, and Z...THAT TRIM THO! ///M
Car looks much better in person. The wheels aren't as dark as the pictures make them out to be. And rolling with some light hitting them....
25mm would be too much. Looking into 15mm. The rear has a slight poke, which is enough for me. Don't want it in the front too.
Oh, and Z...THAT TRIM THO! ///M
25mm would be too much. Looking into 15mm. The rear has a slight poke, which is enough for me. Don't want it in the front too.
Oh, and Z...THAT TRIM THO! ///M
get the 25, you'll end up with it anyway after you find the 15 to be not adequate.
New coilover setup:
Contacted Cygnus Performance to place an order of Fortune Auto 500 series Black Edition coilovers:
- Swift springs, 8k/12k
- Koyo radial bearings
- M3 rear struts
- Camber plates, 24-way adj. digressive struts + valved according to springs.
- Added Whiteline subframe bushing inserts to the order w/ Cygnus.
Ordering today: M3 rear control arms, Manzo rear toe arms, and Powerflex upper strut mounts.
Gaby! What's up man? Let's plan something soon now that the weather is finally decent.
Agreed. I just hate the texture plastidip gives out of a spray can. If it were done professionally then sure, but at that point, I'd rather have a body shop paint it properly.
After that, maybe a few power mods and I'm done for a while. I'd be crazy to ignore the new potential that's been popping up for these motors and ECUs. Power is ridiculously cheap, and easy. You can have a "Cobb AccessPort" for the cost of a $30 cable, and a $49 Android App. New inlets allowing stock turbos to hit 500whp.
I'll be flashing a new tune on once the downpipes and FMIC go on, then done for the year.
BMW is so much a better tuner car than the G. All we can do is bolt on a few mods, and gently retune for maybe 30+hp gains over stock when all is said and done. Whereas your opportunities for play seem pretty much endless.
The tune re-configures the ECU so that the expected delta between the sensors is zero? That's amazing.
BMW is so much a better tuner car than the G. All we can do is bolt on a few mods, and gently retune for maybe 30+hp gains over stock when all is said and done. Whereas your opportunities for play seem pretty much endless.
BMW is so much a better tuner car than the G. All we can do is bolt on a few mods, and gently retune for maybe 30+hp gains over stock when all is said and done. Whereas your opportunities for play seem pretty much endless.
Thanks Prophecy!
