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Add my name to the (long) list of 00VI swapped 4th gens.
My ride:
1996 Maxima Auto
18” 09-11 OEM Maxima 10-spoke rims w/ 245/40/18
KYB struts w/ Lowering springs (unknown brand, bought from .org member)
2.5” cat back by local muffler shop w/ eBay chambered muffler (would go straight through muffler in the future)
Aluminum radiator and external trans cooler
#2 00VI swap (untuned) with A32 coils and IACV
4900 activation
I used my factory air box and rotated it 90* so the filter is facing forward and hacked everything beneath the clips off.
PCV goes to a catch can in front of the battery and EVAP vents to atmosphere (I had an EVAP code prior to swap)
Y-pipe and ECU upgrades soon, 3.5 swap on the horizon.
Super simple setup. Got power from the cig lighter. Full digital readout. Easy to setup.
So far I’m happy with everything. I’ve had this car for 15 years and put over 100k miles on it. I was surprised how well it runs on the A33 injectors. It doesn’t sputter or load up at all. Pulls hard from 5k up
Does anyone have real numbers on what the AFR looks like untuned? Does it go from 14 to 12-12.5 or does it go down further?
Looking forward to building and beating on the old car.
Awesome!
The ecu will take care of normal driving in closed loop and should be near stoich at 14.7.
In open loop (high load/WOT) with 00vi, dek injectors, y pipe, catback, my AFR bottomed out in the 10s because that's as low as my wideband gauge would go.
Getting that thing tuned will make a world of difference! On two separate occasions I picked up over half a second from tuning ign timing, and another ~0.2 from extended rev limiter in the 1/4 mile. I don't have data on AFR tuning & the 1/4 mile but it is definitely good for some ponies leaning it out to the 12-13 range.
Your cheapest all in one tuning will be a vafc or afc neo. It adjusts fuel by bending MAF signal, advancing timing indirectly when removing fuel.
Next step up (emanage ultimate or nistune) gives you independent control of fuel, timing, and rev limit. Cost is a little higher but will net you the most power and will be even more beneficial for your 3.5 swap down the road. Stock 3.0 timing maps are AWFUL on a 3.5.
Aaron,
I had both EU and Nistune. I kind of liked the EU better as it was a bit more user friendly and could control VIAS and log wideband signals in one program. Nistune was nice for the easy extended rev limiter, but was a little more of a pain when datalogging as I needed to connect my wideband directly to my laptop via serial to USB cable, and there is no free option out of the box for VIAS activation.
In the past couple years I was able to buy (hoard) a couple EU's with harness for around 300 or less, so that gets my vote.
Awesome!
The ecu will take care of normal driving in closed loop and should be near stoich at 14.7.
In open loop (high load/WOT) with 00vi, dek injectors, y pipe, catback, my AFR bottomed out in the 10s because that's as low as my wideband gauge would go.
Getting that thing tuned will make a world of difference! On two separate occasions I picked up over half a second from tuning ign timing, and another ~0.2 from extended rev limiter in the 1/4 mile. I don't have data on AFR tuning & the 1/4 mile but it is definitely good for some ponies leaning it out to the 12-13 range.
Your cheapest all in one tuning will be a vafc or afc neo. It adjusts fuel by bending MAF signal, advancing timing indirectly when removing fuel.
Next step up (emanage ultimate or nistune) gives you independent control of fuel, timing, and rev limit. Cost is a little higher but will net you the most power and will be even more beneficial for your 3.5 swap down the road. Stock 3.0 timing maps are AWFUL on a 3.5.
Aaron,
I had both EU and Nistune. I kind of liked the EU better as it was a bit more user friendly and could control VIAS and log wideband signals in one program. Nistune was nice for the easy extended rev limiter, but was a little more of a pain when datalogging as I needed to connect my wideband directly to my laptop via serial to USB cable, and there is no free option out of the box for VIAS activation.
In the past couple years I was able to buy (hoard) a couple EU's with harness for around 300 or less, so that gets my vote.
I have been eyeing an afc, but I realize I will want/need more control with the 3.5 swap, so I've been looking into more.
Originally Posted by aackshun
What are people's thoughts on Nistune these days? I've always wanted to do it to a 4th gen.
Also those are 2009-11 Maxima wheels, not 08.
Good call on the rims. I guess I never stopped to put much thought into which year they're from. I just knew they looked nicer than the 15" steelies.
UPDATE: Warpspeed Y installed, bought it new. Took the opportunity to gut the main cat while I was there. That chambered muffler sounds like total garbage!!! I’m pretty sure the baffles are coming apart internally. I’ll be getting a blow through magnaflow style ASAP.
It’s very loud and the gains from the Y aren’t that noticeable, but that may be due to the fact that I’m still untuned on DEK injectors.
When this stuff dies down I'll roll up there and get new plates, if I can get a hold of an old friend in Topeka I might be able to shoot down and snap a few pics of the dying breed of Kansas Maximas lol.
Last edited by aackshun; Aug 12, 2020 at 07:19 PM.
When this stuff dies down I'll roll up there and get new plates, if I can get a hold of an old friend in Topeka I might be able to shoot down and snap a few pics of the dying breed of Kansas Maximas lol.
Keep me posted. I’m like two hours from Topeka, Wilson County.
Ha yup! BTW, I am definitely leaning towards using an 03-04 ECU and seeing where I can get using the open source stuff.
Ideally, I’d like to keep the VVT, so that’s where my research is taking me. But my end goal is going further into dedicated race car than street so that may alter the plans, too.
Ive been running the 00VI untuned for a while and developed a misfire. Initially I thought it was just because of the bigger injectors and just needed to be revved out to clear it up, which worked for a while.
Made it to the local 1/4 mile track for some Test-n-Tune. Best pass was 16.0 on 5 cylinders. Revving it to clear it out didn’t help at all!
So I checked all the plugs and they were fine. I started messing with the coil packs a noticed that when I pulled the coil on #2 while it was idling nothing changed! Swapped it out and now it’s running smooth again! So back to the track in the coming weeks to get a fair baseline before the HR swap.
Has anyone converted the DBW TB to cable? My other thought is to get a 2010 gas pedal and convert to DBW. Need to research that some more.
