im gonna try to make the stock shifter have shorter throws like matt suggested awhile back this weekend. just had a couple small questions and concerns. what kinda of grease should i buy for this, silicone or teflon? and i wanna drop it by about 4 inches, and im guessing i cant just move the pivot point that much. so would there be any problems if i just cut or ground the top down and bought one of those clamp-on shift *****? well thanks for any replies

saving 60 bucks and gettin an sts kicks ***
thanks matt

 

im guessing no one else has tried this

 

alrite, well i failed pretty badly with this one
where should i start
couldnt remove the cat cuz the lovely muffler shop just welded right onto the flange instead of removing it first. so i just took off the heat shield and tried to get it from there. with a huge socket extension, i could get to 2 of the 4 bolts. so i emptied a can of liquid wrench up there and let it soak in for awhile. in the meantime, worked inside and got the shift **** off. at least that went easy. so then i got back under there and tried to free up some of those bolts. they were in pretty rough shape so i took it eaasy on them. well i guess not easy enough cuz the first one snapped off like nothin. so ****, one bolt down, 3 left on. they all looked the same and i didnt want to risk break anymore of em, so i just stoppped right there.
so im thinkin im just gonna take a hacksaw and cut down about 3 inches, it will make the throws a little bit shorter too i guess. i oculd always just kill the rest of the bolts and then retap em.

at least i didnt spend 60 bucks on the pacesetter just to find this out.

 

You can get the shifter out without removing the CAT. I've done it 3 times at least.

Good luck moving that teflon shift ball however. I was not able to do it.

Oh, just remove some of the exhaust hangers to get the cat, etc. out of the way so you can remove the shifter.

 

i know you can do it without takin the cat off, it just seemed a lot easier that way
the reason i couldnt do it though was cuz all the bolts were rusted and frozen. the heads were falling apart and i didnt feel like breakin em all then retapping everything. im just gonna cut it now i think.
i was looking around for a **** that can fit over the actual lever instead of on the threaded part. up here at school i didnt find anything, but im goin home next weekend and im sure theres a much bigger selection in buffalo. so hopefully ill get it done then.

 

Just hack saw a few inches off the top. Sounds ghetto, but everyone who drives it comments on the nice short throw. I took off about 4 inches, then slipped on a nice ****. Works for me and looks a ton better than that big dorky stock one.

 

sounds good to me
you took a whole 4 off?
any problems with the ergonomics of it?

 

Actually that was sort of a guess..it's been a ahile since I did it. I do remember taking off a few inches, then gooing a little more because it was still a tad too tall. Maybe it was more like three inches. I do suggest NOT using a hack saw..took a LONG time and two blades to get through it. Use a reciprocating saw (sawzall)..much faster. I love the shorter thrw, was easy to do, looks cool, and it cost me only the two blades and the ****.