What's your guess: TPS or CPS or ???
What's your guess: TPS or CPS or ???
Hello all!
Sometimes when I hit the gas when stopped, my RPMs will drop,
the engine will stutter, and then (after a half second or so)
the car will start to move...
Sometimes, the car will stutter up through to about 2000RPMs
but, typically after the car starts moving, it will perform just
fine...
So, my guesses (without testing anything yet) are:
Throttle Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Also, NO CODES have come up yet...
thoughts?
FLO_BOY
Sometimes when I hit the gas when stopped, my RPMs will drop,
the engine will stutter, and then (after a half second or so)
the car will start to move...
Sometimes, the car will stutter up through to about 2000RPMs
but, typically after the car starts moving, it will perform just
fine...
So, my guesses (without testing anything yet) are:
Throttle Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Also, NO CODES have come up yet...
thoughts?
FLO_BOY
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,024
TPS - Probably Not - you can check it's resistance with an OHM meter
CPS - Definately Not
From what you describe I bet you've got a lazy MAF it's not reporting the sudden rush of air correctly causing your sputter. Give it some time and I bet it fails. You can also try to spray some TB cleaner on the tiny wire inside the MAF, it may be covered in grime causing a slow reaction signal.
Disclaimer: If you kill you MAF by doing the above process I'm not to be held responsible. I have done this to 4th gen MAFs with no reported problems. It does get dirty.
CPS - Definately Not
From what you describe I bet you've got a lazy MAF it's not reporting the sudden rush of air correctly causing your sputter. Give it some time and I bet it fails. You can also try to spray some TB cleaner on the tiny wire inside the MAF, it may be covered in grime causing a slow reaction signal.
Disclaimer: If you kill you MAF by doing the above process I'm not to be held responsible. I have done this to 4th gen MAFs with no reported problems. It does get dirty.
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
From what you describe I bet you've got a lazy MAF it's not reporting the sudden rush of air correctly causing your sputter. Give it some time and I bet it fails. You can also try to spray some TB cleaner on the tiny wire inside the MAF, it may be covered in grime causing a slow reaction signal.
From what you describe I bet you've got a lazy MAF it's not reporting the sudden rush of air correctly causing your sputter. Give it some time and I bet it fails. You can also try to spray some TB cleaner on the tiny wire inside the MAF, it may be covered in grime causing a slow reaction signal.
because of the same problem rearing its ugly head last summer.
When I fixed the Ignition Signal Ground, the problem went away.
Now, my "fix" was repaired recently because driveability was going
south...since this fix, the car is about 90% better, but there is
STILL this hesitation.
I'm starting to think there's an issue with the RED wire connecting
the MAFS, Ignition Signal, TPS and more...because all my problems
appear to be in this area of concern.
THOUGHTS?
FLO_BOY
Originally posted by FLO_BOY
That's interesting, because I've already replaced my MAFS once
because of the same problem rearing its ugly head last summer.
When I fixed the Ignition Signal Ground, the problem went away.
Now, my "fix" was repaired recently because driveability was going
south...since this fix, the car is about 90% better, but there is
STILL this hesitation.
I'm starting to think there's an issue with the RED wire connecting
the MAFS, Ignition Signal, TPS and more...because all my problems
appear to be in this area of concern.
THOUGHTS?
FLO_BOY
That's interesting, because I've already replaced my MAFS once
because of the same problem rearing its ugly head last summer.
When I fixed the Ignition Signal Ground, the problem went away.
Now, my "fix" was repaired recently because driveability was going
south...since this fix, the car is about 90% better, but there is
STILL this hesitation.
I'm starting to think there's an issue with the RED wire connecting
the MAFS, Ignition Signal, TPS and more...because all my problems
appear to be in this area of concern.
THOUGHTS?
FLO_BOY
OK, it seems to ONLY happen when I'm in "DRIVE".
In fact, my car SHUT OFF TWICE on the ride home.
It's almost like letting go of the clutch without hitting the gas in a 5sp.
IDEAS????
HELP!!!FLO_BOY
Torque convertor?
Originally posted by FLO_BOY
MORE INFO:
OK, it seems to ONLY happen when I'm in "DRIVE".
In fact, my car SHUT OFF TWICE on the ride home.
It's almost like letting go of the clutch without hitting the gas in a 5sp.
IDEAS????
HELP!!!
FLO_BOY
MORE INFO:
OK, it seems to ONLY happen when I'm in "DRIVE".
In fact, my car SHUT OFF TWICE on the ride home.
It's almost like letting go of the clutch without hitting the gas in a 5sp.
IDEAS????
HELP!!!FLO_BOY
OK, so now my car is driving like CRAP! 
BUT, here's some more info, which I think spells it out (mostly):
-- my car shuts off when I put it in drive and try to go.
-- I open the hood, jiggle the main wire loom (main spine), the engine shuts off.
-- I try to restart the car, it does.
-- I jiggle the main wire loom again, the car shuts off.
-- repeat.
-- quietly sob.
When I "jiggle" I do it right near the passenger fire wall...under the passenger side of the strut tower bar...
My guesses:
-- loose wire loom going into the ECU?
-- bad/damaged wires in loom near that point?
I think I've read that the engine "twist" over the years can rub
some of the wires the wrong way, per se? Li'l help???
THANKS!!!
FLO_BOY

BUT, here's some more info, which I think spells it out (mostly):
-- my car shuts off when I put it in drive and try to go.
-- I open the hood, jiggle the main wire loom (main spine), the engine shuts off.
-- I try to restart the car, it does.
-- I jiggle the main wire loom again, the car shuts off.
-- repeat.
-- quietly sob.
When I "jiggle" I do it right near the passenger fire wall...under the passenger side of the strut tower bar...
My guesses:
-- loose wire loom going into the ECU?
-- bad/damaged wires in loom near that point?
I think I've read that the engine "twist" over the years can rub
some of the wires the wrong way, per se? Li'l help???
THANKS!!!
FLO_BOY
I saw a TSB a while ago about engine starting/running
problems due to wiring harness shorting near passenger side
stut tower where the harness curves around the engine. Do a
search for TSBs.
problems due to wiring harness shorting near passenger side
stut tower where the harness curves around the engine. Do a
search for TSBs.
Originally posted by FLO_BOY
OK, so now my car is driving like CRAP!
BUT, here's some more info, which I think spells it out (mostly):
-- my car shuts off when I put it in drive and try to go.
-- I open the hood, jiggle the main wire loom (main spine), the engine shuts off.
-- I try to restart the car, it does.
-- I jiggle the main wire loom again, the car shuts off.
-- repeat.
-- quietly sob.
When I "jiggle" I do it right near the passenger fire wall...under the passenger side of the strut tower bar...
My guesses:
-- loose wire loom going into the ECU?
-- bad/damaged wires in loom near that point?
I think I've read that the engine "twist" over the years can rub
some of the wires the wrong way, per se? Li'l help???
THANKS!!!
FLO_BOY
OK, so now my car is driving like CRAP!

BUT, here's some more info, which I think spells it out (mostly):
-- my car shuts off when I put it in drive and try to go.
-- I open the hood, jiggle the main wire loom (main spine), the engine shuts off.
-- I try to restart the car, it does.
-- I jiggle the main wire loom again, the car shuts off.
-- repeat.
-- quietly sob.
When I "jiggle" I do it right near the passenger fire wall...under the passenger side of the strut tower bar...
My guesses:
-- loose wire loom going into the ECU?
-- bad/damaged wires in loom near that point?
I think I've read that the engine "twist" over the years can rub
some of the wires the wrong way, per se? Li'l help???
THANKS!!!
FLO_BOY
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