Hey Guys,
I just did a brake job myself, put on new brembo cross drilled rotors, and axxis metal masters with new shims. They work fine but my rear passenger brakes emmit a ratcheting noise as i drive. The noise gets fast as i drive faster. Was curious if you guys have any idea on what it could be? At first I thought it may be the wear indicators hitting the slots. But i bent them a bit out of the way and it still makes the same noise. Need some advice! thanks

 

Is the noise coming from both rear wheels?

Try this:

Jack up each rear wheel, make sure the parking brake is released. Spin the wheel manually and see if you can duplicate the noise.

I just did my front brakes and ended up with more of a metal on metal sound coming from the driver side front - the problem in my case was the dust shield behind the rotor was rubbing the rotor - only happened after the brake job since I replaced the old rotors and the new rotors were obviosuly thicker. I just had to straight out the dust sheild and my problem was solved....

It will be easier to pinpoint the source of noise with the wheels off.

Nirav

 

The noise is only from the rear passenger wheel, I dont think i mentioned to clearly but i have crossdrilled and slotted rotors. I believe the sound is more like a clicking noise instead of a metal on metal. But I will give the dust sheild a check.

 

I finally got a chance to take off my wheel to see what it was, while turning the rotor with the wheel off i didnt hear any rubbing of the dust sheild. So im assuming that for some reason the pad is hitting into the slots on my rotor. Anyone have anything like this happen to them in the past?

 

Hmm.. well then its got to be what you said... are the edges of your pads beveled such that a instead of a hard edge? Some better pads come like this out of the box, but I have read of people filing their pads down themselves for smoother braking, eliminating squealing etc.. this may work for you too - since there won't be a sharp edge to catch onto the slots on the rotor... if you don't know what I am referring to by the bevels, let me know, I'll try find a picture.

 

Ah.. that sounds like a good idea. What i find strange is why is it that only my right rear wheel makes a clicking noise where as the rest do not? and If i were to sand down the edges what would i use? File? Thanks

 

yes - it is strange that only the right wheel is making the sounds... did you try to disassemble/reassemble that wheel.. maybe something is not quit right... sometimes the pad retaining clips can also rub against the rotor - may that is what is catching against the slots... ??? you can probably use a rasp or metal file to create the bevel... but I would look more carefully at your installation first.. especially since you are only seeing the problem on one side...

 

its your metal bracket that the pads slide on. you can either put two way tape very thin to keep the bracket still are go to nissan they have a modified bracket with two way tape already.is it a tingle sound every time you hit a bump.

 

I do recall when i was at the dealer purchasing the shims that the maxima uses newer rear shims than the one that he had instock. The slider brakets did already have double sided tape one them. The sound I am getting is more of something that increases with speed. As i go faster the clicking gets faster, It does seem like what njmodi is saying about beveling the hard edges on the pads would reduce the hard contact with the slots on my rotors. Altho im a bit reluctant to remove them since turning the piston in with needlenose pliars is a pain in the butt.

 

If the piston was very difficult to turn in you might have issues right there... the pistons should be firm but not really hard to push back... it is easier just to buy/rent the tool that is made for this purpose (available at Pepboys etc.)... were both rear pistons equally tedious to retract?

 

actually now that you mention it i believe the pass rear piston was extra hard to retract..

 

Your problem maybe a binding caliper.... with the car jacked up and wheel removed (parking brake released) are you able to turn the rotor (on the rear passenger side that is making the sounds) fairly easily? Compare with the other side to see if there is a noticeable difference.

If the hub is diffcult to turn - it could be one of two things:

1) Your parking brake cable is binding on that side - disconnect the cable and see if makes any difference.

2. The piston has seized and you need to replace the caliper (or rebuild it).

 

Just thought of one more thing. Most of the rear pads for the maxima come with a little nub that sticks out - this nub needs to line up exacty with the indentations in the actual piston - so that when the piston compresses the pad the nub goes into the groove and the piston makes a nice even flat contact with the pad... did you make sure the nub lined up properly when you did the brakes?

 

The nub on the pads? You mean that when the pads are inserted into the pad "brackets?"(not sure what they are called) that the pads can slide on the nub? Indentation of the piston? from what i recall the part of the pad that makes contact with the piston is flat and a shim goes over the backside of the pad also. and the piston has a + on it so that you can retract the piston via the tool or need nose pliers? Not to sure if the nub im talking about is the same nub your describing.